Remington 1911 R1 ejector and slide/frame blending

[T-DOGG]

This is a pretty good example of a Remington 1911, with the exception of the ejector being very recessed in the rear and the slide to frame not blending well together. So, I decided to fix that with an EGW long ejector and a fair amount of manual labor.

Here's the gun. I picked this up not too long ago from a LGS as "used", but it was actually never fired. So far, I've swapped in a SA long trigger, removed the 80 series parts and replaced with a TJ's .057" spacer, adjusted the trigger pull down to just over 3 pounds and added some Cool Hand G10 grips. It's pleasant to shoot, despite being a "GI style" gun without a lot of the bells & whistles.






Ugly, very ugly in the rear.





The original ejector was actually a little loose and it came out quite easy. You can see how much longer the EGW ejector is in comparison.



Marked the new ejector and began cutting a groove for the pin. I started my cut a little high, to help pull the ejector down when the pin is installed, and it worked well doing that.



New ejector in place and now sitting proud.





Time to get the belt sander out. Just kidding. I carefully used a Milwaukee Rotary tool ("Dremel") with coarse and fine sanding discs. This worked very well, I kept the speed manageable and keep a nice smooth sweeping motion. I followed that up with 600/800 grit sandpaper.

 

[T-DOGG]

Began hitting the area with 1000 grit, followed by 1500 grit and then polishing compound on a little buffing wheel with the Rotary.



With that portion done, it was time to move onto adjusting the length of the front section of the ejector. From everything I researched, the general consensus said to keep the ejector as long as possible to start with and file it back until a live round can be ejected. And also keep the face flat until test firing is performed and adjust shape if needed. This was a long tedious process, but I took my time and took off between .005" - .010" at a time until. I ended up removing .090" total. I originally did this with snap caps but found those to be considerably shorter than live rounds. I confirmed that Norma and PMC 230gr ejected once completed (yes, I did this in a safe manner and without a majority of the gun together, no trigger or hammer installed).



All done and back together, a complete gun once again. I will probably eventually bead blast this gun at some point, but the polished look will work for now. Test firing at the range will be next thing on the list for this gun.

 

[Titanium_Frost]

Very nice work. I really like the Remington R1 I have but the trigger could definitely use a little work. I removed the 80s parts as well.

 

[T-DOGG]

Very nice work. I really like the Remington R1 I have but the trigger could definitely use a little work. I removed the 80s parts as well.

I also polished the disconnector, sear, and trigger bar contact surfaces along with adjusting the sear and disconnector legs of the sear spring assy to reduce the pull weight. It's pretty respectable for stock/mim parts.

 

[Leadeye]

Nice work T-dogg!

 

[T-DOGG]

Nice work T-dogg!

Thank you LE!

 

[drillsgt]

Nice job, I probably would have just taken it to 300-400 grit and reblasted it.

 

[T-DOGG]

Nice job, I probably would have just taken it to 300-400 grit and reblasted it.

I've never sandblasted before. Does the appearance change much after you get the finish to a certain smoothness? At 400, it looks the same as 800 after blasting?

I've been looking at getting a blast cabinet and media. I think I can make room in the garage.

 

[RustyHornet]

I've never sandblasted before. Does the appearance change much after you get the finish to a certain smoothness? At 400, it looks the same as 800 after blasting?

I've been looking at getting a blast cabinet and media. I think I can make room in the garage.

Once it’s blasted, you won’t be able to tell what it was sanded with.

 

[T-DOGG]

Range report.

New ejector made a huge difference and doesn't need any material removed or reshaped. Consistent and strong ejection to the 4:30 direction. Previously the gun would kind of kick them here, there, and everywhere.

 

[Robert Richardson]

Did you have to relieve the bottom inner side of the ejector? Every one I used did make contact with the magazine.

 

[T-DOGG]

Did you have to relieve the bottom inner side of the ejector? Every one I used did make contact with the magazine.

I did not.

 

[drillsgt]

That's very unusual in a .45 to be able to have an ejector nose that long. There have been some instances where an overly long ejector has acted like an impromptu firing pin.

 

[T-DOGG]

That's very unusual in a .45 to be able to have an ejector nose that long. There have been some instances where an overly long ejector has acted like an impromptu firing pin.

You've met me before, unusual is par for the course with me.

 

[T-DOGG]

Sandblasting cabinet, dust collector and 100-170 glass bead media on order.

 

[WebSnyper]

You've met me before, unusual is par for the course with me.

 

[T-DOGG]

This is back on the bench currently.

Ball cut with 3/8" ball end mill.





Flat top with 1/2" end mill. Took off about .022". First time ever on this cut, did not practice beforehand.





French border with 1/8" ball end mill. About .005" deep.




And some 1/8" ball cuts on top about .005" - .007" deep. Cuts came out good with good spacing and centering, but I see my flat top is just ever so slightly off centered, hard to see that in this picture, but its there.

 

[T-DOGG]

Cleaned up all the small parts, removing molding lines (MIM) and bead blasted them to match. Blasted the frame and slide. All back together. Eventually this one gets new sights and a checkered mainspring housing.

 

[DadSmith]

Began hitting the area with 1000 grit, followed by 1500 grit and then polishing compound on a little buffing wheel with the Rotary.

View attachment 298823

With that portion done, it was time to move onto adjusting the length of the front section of the ejector. From everything I researched, the general consensus said to keep the ejector as long as possible to start with and file it back until a live round can be ejected. And also keep the face flat until test firing is performed and adjust shape if needed. This was a long tedious process, but I took my time and took off between .005" - .010" at a time until. I ended up removing .090" total. I originally did this with snap caps but found those to be considerably shorter than live rounds. I confirmed that Norma and PMC 230gr ejected once completed (yes, I did this in a safe manner and without a majority of the gun together, no trigger or hammer installed).

View attachment 298825

All done and back together, a complete gun once again. I will probably eventually bead blast this gun at some point, but the polished look will work for now. Test firing at the range will be next thing on the list for this gun.

View attachment 298826 View attachment 298827 View attachment 298828 View attachment 298829

I need to come spend a day here and there and have you teach me how you do all this. Bring my own 1911 to mess up on and learn.
Churchmouse offered to do that, unfortunately I didn't make it and I kick myself every time I remember CM.
He was a great guy.

 

[T-DOGG]

I need to come spend a day here and there and have you teach me how you do all this. Bring my own 1911 to mess up on and learn.
Churchmouse offered to do that, unfortunately I didn't make it and I kick myself every time I remember CM.
He was a great guy.

I'm definitely not the guy for teaching this stuff. I'm still a novice when it comes to gunsmithing.