Resizing Brass for Revolver

[clelaj]

Questions for you experienced reloaders: Fired brass grows on diameter to fill the cylinder bore with a little spring back. Resizing shrinks the case diameter back to spec and grows the length of the brass. Resizing also restores the inside diameter at the neck to hold the bullet. This resizing does thin the wall of the brass.

Assuming you use this brass in only one revolver, would you be better to only resize the neck for the length of your bullet seat and reduce the amount of resizing working the brass for the rest of the case? Or is the resultant step caused by just neck sizing more detrimental?

And I wonder if there is any accuracy gain by have the outside diameter of the case closer matched to the cylinder bore diameter?

 

[Leo]

When you are talking revolver, the most common is the .38 splecial, but this applies to others also. I used to shoot conventional bullseye competition. I kept my brass in batches that I never seperated. The light wadcutter loads only needed a very slight bullet crimp on the case mouth. Since I was not stressing the case mouths, most of my "sets" of brass would go about 20 reloads before starting to crack at the mouths. I always used the same primers so the primer pockets did not have problems. I full length sized every one, every time. The case body did not wear out only the mouth. If you get used brass for less than 10 cents each, and use them 20 times, you are at 1/2 a penny. I do not think neck sizing only would buy you any accuracy in a straight walled case where the bullet leaves the cylinder and slams into a forcing cone at the back of the barrel anyway. No worries. Good Luck