The Ruger .22 auto pistol has got to be one of the most popular .22’s ever manufactured. Created by Bill Ruger in 1949 as a simple, cheaper alternative to the Colt Woodsmans and High Standards of the day it is in its third slight variation and still going strong. They are generally very accurate pistols and all I have owned have been very reliable. Shooting volume of .22’s is a whole different creature than center fires due to cheaper ammunition, less recoil, less muzzle blast. The major fault of the Ruger .22’s is the field stripping for cleaning. Actually, the takedown isn’t a problem, but the reassembly can be troublesome. I recently talked a buddy into getting a Ruger MKII bull barreled .22 for a suppressor host. He did and was very happy with it. After getting it and shooting it, he took it apart to clean it and then called me cussing both Bill Ruger and myself! I told him about a product that I’d heard of that makes stripping the Ruger MK series much easier. He had me order one for him and I went ahead and ordered one for myself. I got them at Brownell’s for less than $50.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31888/Product/RUGER_reg__MARK_I_II_III_SPEED_STRIP_KIT
I took time to install one in my cut down Ruger MKII this morning. All told, it took about 45 minutes to do, but the second one will take probably 30 minutes or less; I’ll explain the reason for that later. It required very few tools. A screwdriver, hammer and punch were about it.
My MKII and the kit as received
Included are very good, illustrated instructions, field stripping instructions, the replacement bolt pin, new hammer, and Allen wrench required for field stripping.
First step is to ensure the pistol is empty and dryfire it. Then, remove the mainspring housing
Pull the bolt out of the rear. You can see how the pin locks into the bolt, providing a rearward stop for the bolt as well as something for the recoil spring to bear on.
Push the upper receiver forward and off of the lower gripframe
Remove both grip panels
Now, here is the part where I cost myself some time. Push the hammer pivot pin from right to left, but only enough to get the hammer out. On the MKI and MKII guns, the hammer pivot pin also holds the safety which holds the sear forward, under spring pressure. I pushed the pin too far out and let the safety come out of its position which let the sear forward as well as letting the safety detent out of the safety button. This cost me a few minutes of figuring out what I’d messed up and how to fix it.
Push the hammer strut pin out of the hammer and swap the strut to the new hammer. It is pointed out in the directions that there is a specific way for the hammer strut to be installed.
Reinstall the hammer in the gun
Here you can see the different radius of the two hammers. I believe this allows the bolt to be removed and installed with the gun still together
Here you can see the two bolt stop pins with the factory one still installed on the mainspring housing
On my pistol, the pin that holds the bolt stop pin in place was staked in place. I was able to drive it out with a small hemmer and punch. Punching it out allowed me to swap in the new bolt stop pin
Now, for the last time, I reinstalled the tricky mainspring housing. You can see that the stainless bolt stop pin extends a bit farther through the upper receiver. It is noticeable, but does not interfere with the sight picture at all. I may end up using a Sharpie on it to darken it up temporarily.
And now, removing the bolt for cleaning is as easy as using the Allen wrench to remove the new two piece bolt stop pin.
OK, for the plusses and minuses…
Pluses
· Easy install if you are handy
· Works as described and solves the only problem I’ve ever encountered with the Ruger MK series .22 pistols
· Great directions with plenty of illustrations and tips
· Polished hammer/sear engagement helps with trigger pull on factory guns
· Stainless finish matches up well with factory stainless guns
Minuses
· Price of $45 is a bit for a sub $300 gun
· Only available in stainless, a blued option would be nice
I’m sure that my friend will be happy with his modified Ruger. I would definitely recommend the Speed Strip to all owners of Ruger .22 auto pistols.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31888/Product/RUGER_reg__MARK_I_II_III_SPEED_STRIP_KIT
I took time to install one in my cut down Ruger MKII this morning. All told, it took about 45 minutes to do, but the second one will take probably 30 minutes or less; I’ll explain the reason for that later. It required very few tools. A screwdriver, hammer and punch were about it.
My MKII and the kit as received
Included are very good, illustrated instructions, field stripping instructions, the replacement bolt pin, new hammer, and Allen wrench required for field stripping.
First step is to ensure the pistol is empty and dryfire it. Then, remove the mainspring housing
Pull the bolt out of the rear. You can see how the pin locks into the bolt, providing a rearward stop for the bolt as well as something for the recoil spring to bear on.
Push the upper receiver forward and off of the lower gripframe
Remove both grip panels
Now, here is the part where I cost myself some time. Push the hammer pivot pin from right to left, but only enough to get the hammer out. On the MKI and MKII guns, the hammer pivot pin also holds the safety which holds the sear forward, under spring pressure. I pushed the pin too far out and let the safety come out of its position which let the sear forward as well as letting the safety detent out of the safety button. This cost me a few minutes of figuring out what I’d messed up and how to fix it.
Push the hammer strut pin out of the hammer and swap the strut to the new hammer. It is pointed out in the directions that there is a specific way for the hammer strut to be installed.
Reinstall the hammer in the gun
Here you can see the different radius of the two hammers. I believe this allows the bolt to be removed and installed with the gun still together
Here you can see the two bolt stop pins with the factory one still installed on the mainspring housing
On my pistol, the pin that holds the bolt stop pin in place was staked in place. I was able to drive it out with a small hemmer and punch. Punching it out allowed me to swap in the new bolt stop pin
Now, for the last time, I reinstalled the tricky mainspring housing. You can see that the stainless bolt stop pin extends a bit farther through the upper receiver. It is noticeable, but does not interfere with the sight picture at all. I may end up using a Sharpie on it to darken it up temporarily.
And now, removing the bolt for cleaning is as easy as using the Allen wrench to remove the new two piece bolt stop pin.
OK, for the plusses and minuses…
Pluses
· Easy install if you are handy
· Works as described and solves the only problem I’ve ever encountered with the Ruger MK series .22 pistols
· Great directions with plenty of illustrations and tips
· Polished hammer/sear engagement helps with trigger pull on factory guns
· Stainless finish matches up well with factory stainless guns
Minuses
· Price of $45 is a bit for a sub $300 gun
· Only available in stainless, a blued option would be nice
I’m sure that my friend will be happy with his modified Ruger. I would definitely recommend the Speed Strip to all owners of Ruger .22 auto pistols.
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