Ruger SP100 .22LR revolver question: rounds not firing

[doddg]

1. Shot the 8 round cylinder using 4 different types of ammo:

a. Remington Golden Bullets: 1400 FPS; 36 grain, HP = 3 FTF; 2nd time = 2 FTF; 3rd time = 1 FTF; 4th time = 0 FTF. (D/A) Finished with cylinder #1.
b. Remington Golden Bullets: 1400 FPS; 36 grain, HP = 3 FTF; 2nd time = 0 FTF; (S/A) Finished with cylinder #2.

c. CCI Mini-Mags: 1235 FPS, 40 grain, round copper covered = 3 FTF; 2nd time = 1 FTF; 3rd time = 0 FTF (D/A) Finished with cylinder #3.
d. Blazer: 40 grain, lead-nose = FTF 1 time; 2nd time = 0 FTF; 3rd time = 0 FTF (D/A) Finished with cylinder #4.

e. Aguila: Eley Prime; 40 grain, round nose, copper covered = 3 FTF; 2nd time = 1 FTF; 3rd time = 0 FTF (D/A) Finished with cylinder #5

Pic of what cylinder looked like after 1st cylinder with 3 FTF (not take anymore since they all looked the same).

Pic of Remingtons that FTF

Another pic of some FTFs

Another pic of FTF (not take any more: looked the same).

 

[t-squared]

Just looked at a bunch of range pick-ups and from what I'm seeing your primer hits seem a bit shallow. Kinda hard to tell since the side views aren't in sharp focus.

I'm with Hopper, swap out the hammer springs and see if the problem follows the spring to your GP100, or if the GP100's spring "fixes" the SP101...

 

[WebSnyper]

Just got back from the range and I'll be writing a report, but short version is:
4 different kinds of ammo and the Ruger SP100 .22LR FTF 1-3 rounds in a cylinder, so I know it's the gun.

Right now my wife is talking grilling, don't even know whether she's talking about late lunch or early supper.
Later.

I'd probably just call Ruger, honestly. Their customer service is generally so good, there just isn't any reason to mess with it yourself, as they will have it out and back quickly.

 

[doddg]

I'd probably just call Ruger, honestly. Their customer service is generally so good, there just isn't any reason to mess with it yourself, as they will have it out and back quickly.

1. I don't know anything about hammers and springs anyway, like the guys are talking about.

 

[t-squared]

Only you know your comfort level with doing things to your guns, but it would take longer to explain swapping the springs than to actually do it.

Watch the first 3.5 minutes to see what I'm talking about.....[video=youtube;ltkQCwuVYoQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltkQCwuVYoQ[/video]

 

[hopper68]

Only you know your comfort level with doing things to your guns, but it would take longer to explain swapping the springs than to actually do it.

Watch the first 3.5 minutes to see what I'm talking about.....[video=youtube;ltkQCwuVYoQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltkQCwuVYoQ[/video]

And the easy part is you just switch the whole spring assembly without taking it apart.

 

[doddg]

Only you know your comfort level with doing things to your guns, but it would take longer to explain swapping the springs than to actually do it.
Watch the first 3.5 minutes to see what I'm talking about.....[video=youtube;ltkQCwuVYoQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltkQCwuVYoQ[/video]

1. I saw lots of little parts.

 

[sliptap]

I don't know a whole lot about 22 revolver mechanics, but is it normal for the firing pin to hit the far edge of the cartridge like that? It looks like the firing pin isn't hitting "center" enough.

 

[sliptap]

1. I saw lots of little parts.

The hammer spring is the long spring that runs from the butt of the handle up into the frame (it actually attaches to the bottom of the hammer). If there is a spring issue, it can cause the hammer to lose momentum. Being hit by the hammer with less momentum, the firing pin might not have enough force to properly ignite the cartridge. Sometimes people swap out hammer springs to lighten the felt trigger pull, but can reduce the reliability of ignition.

What they are suggesting is to replace the hammer spring with a new one. Springs are cheap and the hammer spring is easy to get to. If that doesn't fix the issue, you can eliminate that from the list of problems.

I'm with the "call Ruger, let them take care of you" group.

 

[tsm]

It’s normal to hit near the edge. The previous owner may have swapped in a lighter weight spring so you could replace it with the standard weight that comes with the gun and see if that helps. Midway and lots of other places sell them. I’ve got the same gun and don’t have FTFs.

 

[t-squared]

And the easy part is you just switch the whole spring assembly without taking it apart.

 

[hopper68]

I don't know a whole lot about 22 revolver mechanics, but is it normal for the firing pin to hit the far edge of the cartridge like that? It looks like the firing pin isn't hitting "center" enough.

Hence the term rimfire. That is where the firing pin will hit on a rimfire cartridge whether handgun or rifle.

 

[WebSnyper]

I don't know a whole lot about 22 revolver mechanics, but is it normal for the firing pin to hit the far edge of the cartridge like that? It looks like the firing pin isn't hitting "center" enough.

Hence the term... rimfire... oops, didn't see hopper got there first.

Yep, definitely normal for a rimfire...

 

[sliptap]

Thanks Hopper and WebSnyper! I don't shoot many 22s, but I guess I never really thought about it before. That also helps explain to me the conventional wisdom of not dry-firing 22 revolvers.

 

[hopper68]

Thanks Hopper and WebSnyper! I don't shoot many 22s, but I guess I never really thought about it before. That also helps explain to me the conventional wisdom of not dry-firing 22 revolvers.

I have had to fix a cylinder after someone dryfired a 22. If you want to dryfire either buy snapcaps or go to your local hardware store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-8-x-7-8-in-Yellow-Ribbed-Plastic-Anchor-100-Piece-804112/204273430

 

[churchmouse]

So it is lite strikes...???

 

[doddg]

So it is lite strikes...???

1. Below is what I posted, which would indicate lite strikes.
2. The advice was to swap out the springs from my GP100: "swap out the hammer springs and see if the problem follows the spring to your GP100, or if the GP100's spring "fixes" the SP101" But, since the GP frame is bigger that the SP: how would the springs be the same?
3. When I saw all those little parts from the vid, that would mean taking apart 2 guns with little parts: not going to do it, b/c I've been there and done that and not been able to get something back together before.
4. I'd rather pay someone a few bucks to do it with new springs if that's what it takes.
5. It could be that if it is that simple, someone who knows me will call and come over or and I'll bring my guns to their place to get it done, or someone will recommend where to go to get it done.
6. I wonder if I should call Ruger for the springs and have them send them to me, or what? Can they be bought locally at a shop b/c it is a common item for those who work on guns.

 

[doddg]

I'd probably just call Ruger, honestly. Their customer service is generally so good, there just isn't any reason to mess with it yourself, as they will have it out and back quickly.

1. I googled Ruger Customer Service and there were 4 different places to call.
2. Anyone know if one location is better than another?

3. Or, for simple springs, is there a local Ruger parts place around?

4. And, when I look at the "strikes" on the rim, they seem to be adequate. If so, does that mean there is a different problem?
5. I don't see how logically, but I've never had to diagnose this ailment before in my dozens of .22LRs I've had since I was 20 (there was a hiatus from guns from 30- 64 yrs. old).

 

[hopper68]

1. I googled Ruger Customer Service and there were 4 different places to call.
2. Anyone know if one location is better than another?

3. Or, for simple springs, is there a local Ruger parts place around?

4. And, when I look at the "strikes" on the rim, they seem to be adequate. If so, does that mean there is a different problem?
5. I don't see how logically, but I've never had to diagnose this ailment before in my dozens of .22LRs I've had since I was 20 (there was a hiatus from guns from 30- 64 yrs. old).

1. RUGER®SP101®revolvers returned to the factory for repair should be sent to: Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc., Customer Service Department, 411 Sunapee St., Newport, New Hampshire 03773. NOTE: You must obtain a Repair Authorization Number before returning your firearm. An authorization number can be obtained by contacting Customer Service online at www.ruger.com or calling the Customer Service Dept. at 603-865-2442. Guns should be sent prepaid. We will not accept collect shipments. (from the manual)

2. See above.

3. Wolf springs makes kits.

4. Looks can be deceiving.

5. Not just a .22 issue. People put in lighter springs for a lighter pull and sometimes it causes issues.

 

[halfmileharry]

Call and talk to a human being at Ruger.
Send it back to them. Those strikes look plenty deep but they're rounded on the outer edges enough to possibly give you primer rim strike issues.
Not sure it's a spring strike issue as much as it's the area and shape of the strike on the shells.