S&W Model 64 Problems

[DoggyDaddy]

Took my model 64-2 snubby out shooting today for the first time. It was acquired in a trade, and the first 6 rounds were fine, but then it started binding after the first or second shot. Kind of like the equivalent of a jam in a semi-auto... The cylinder just did not want to cycle. It took quite a bit of effort to even get the cylinder open when this happened. Sometimes I could open it, and re-lock it and it would work for another round or two and then lock up again. Any ideas as to what would cause this? Dry firing on an empty cylinder did not produce any malfunctions - cylinder cycled properly. I was using Winchester White Box ammo. Gave it a thorough cleaning when I got home and didn't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I won't know if it's going to do this again until I get some shooting time or get some snap caps for it. I've not heard of a revolver doing this before, especially a Smith...

 

[IndyGunworks]

bent cranes sometimes cause this, as well a pieces of debris that get into some of the smaller spaces in the gun. Perhaps take it all the way apart, and i mean all the way, give it a good clean/degrease, relube and put it back together then see if it happens again.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

bent cranes sometimes cause this, as well a pieces of debris that get into some of the smaller spaces in the gun. Perhaps take it all the way apart, and i mean all the way, give it a good clean/degrease, relube and put it back together then see if it happens again.

Okay, I'm a total rookie when it comes to totally taking apart any firearm (except maybe a Mosin - but that's only 2 screws ), but especially a wheel gun... What's involved? And what's a crane? (see? rookie!) That was one of my first thoughts... that maybe a little piece of dirt was under the ejector, but I didn't see anything. It seems to be seating flush.

 

[gunman41mag]

Oil the the gun real good, i mean wd-40 the heck out of it, my SMITH & WESSON 10 did that & it was the cylinder stop at the bottom of the frame, once oil was applied the problem was gone

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Oil the the gun real good, i mean wd-40 the heck out of it, my SMITH & WESSON 10 did that & it was the cylinder stop at the bottom of the frame, once oil was applied the problem was gone

I did oil the cylinder stop after cleaning it today (if that's the little thing that sticks up out of the bottom of the frame underneath the cylinder and engages the small notches in the cylinder) Didn't use WD-40, just a good wipe-down with Hoppes #9, a little scrubbing with a plastic scratch pad to clean up the front and rear face of the cylinder, plus the flat part of the frame where the rear of the cylinder engages the frame, then wiped with oil on a cloth. Put a couple of drops on the ejector pin (for lack of a better term - the rod that you push on to eject the shells).

 

[gunman41mag]

I did oil the cylinder stop after cleaning it today (if that's the little thing that sticks up out of the bottom of the frame underneath the cylinder and engages the small notches in the cylinder) Didn't use WD-40, just a good wipe-down with Hoppes #9, a little scrubbing with a plastic scratch pad to clean up the front and rear face of the cylinder, plus the flat part of the frame where the rear of the cylinder engages the frame, then wiped with oil on a cloth. Put a couple of drops on the ejector pin (for lack of a better term - the rod that you push on to eject the shells).

You need to spray it very heavy, also spray inside the trigger, I did that & the problem went away

 

[IndyGunworks]

Okay, I'm a total rookie when it comes to totally taking apart any firearm (except maybe a Mosin - but that's only 2 screws ), but especially a wheel gun... What's involved? And what's a crane? (see? rookie!) That was one of my first thoughts... that maybe a little piece of dirt was under the ejector, but I didn't see anything. It seems to be seating flush.

perhaps its time to visit a gunsmith, its a rather complex task.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Thanks guys... I'm gonna go over it again, and try the WD-40 tip too, and then if it's still having problems maybe a gunsmith might be a necessity. I would like to take some kind of gunsmith class sometime I think, but just the basics... Not wanting to invest in a lot of special equipment or anything, but knowing how to disassemble and reassemble would be good knowledge to have.

IndyGunworks, is it complex to at least take out the ejector assembly? Or is that something a rookie can do?

 

[IndyGunworks]

no to bad... a special tool, or a good feel w/ some padded vise jaws. most revolvers are reverse threaded, and w/ too much tension on it you can twist the rod in two (ask me how i know)

in reality most gunsmithing to a gunsmith is not difficult, just tedious. Do i reccomend you try it w/out experience? well, sure take it all the way apart and if you cannot get it back together bring it to me. i would charge you more than if i was the one who took it apart but at least you tried.

 

[1911Shooter]

I havent had a 64 before but I know I had an old revolver may years ago that did that same thing. Come to find out it was single action only. At the time that didnt occur to me but shooting it agian single action fixed the problem. If it is a double action gun then just ignore everything I just said. I wont even pretend I am a gunsmith and can help after that little bit of info. Good Luck.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

no to bad... a special tool, or a good feel w/ some padded vise jaws. most revolvers are reverse threaded, and w/ too much tension on it you can twist the rod in two (ask me how i know)

Ack... I definitely don't want to screw it up. The gun looks pristine, which is why I'm puzzled that it's doing this.

 

[gunman41mag]

Ack... I definitely don't want to screw it up. The gun looks pristine, which is why I'm puzzled that it's doing this.

You can't hurt the gun, by WD-40 the heck out of it

 

[IndyGunworks]

You can't hurt the gun, by WD-40 the heck out of it

NOT TRUE. wd 40 is some sort of lube and mineral spirits. the minderal spirits evaporate rather quickly leaving behind the lube that is not very stable. it gums up rather quickly inside of the gun where all the key parts are. since its not a type of lube that either drys, or evaporates into nothing it sits there and collets dust. this dust in turn acts as an abbrasive inside of your gun. thats why you dont lube triggers on precision rifles, and you dont spray wd 40 into a gun mechanism that you dont know how to detail strip and clean it all back out on a semi regular basis.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

You can't hurt the gun, by WD-40 the heck out of it

Good point! The two universal tools... Duct tape and WD-40... If it moves and it shouldn't, use duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use the WD-40!

 

[gunman41mag]

It fixed my gun,

 

[IndyGunworks]

It fixed my gun,

for now

 

[DoggyDaddy]

NOT TRUE. wd 40 is some sort of lube and mineral spirits. the minderal spirits evaporate rather quickly leaving behind the lube that is not very stable. it gums up rather quickly inside of the gun where all the key parts are. since its not a type of lube that either drys, or evaporates into nothing it sits there and collets dust. this dust in turn acts as an abbrasive inside of your gun. thats why you dont lube triggers on precision rifles, and you dont spray wd 40 into a gun mechanism that you dont know how to detail strip and clean it all back out on a semi regular basis.

Now I have heard this... wonder if Eez-ox would be better?

 

[billybob44]

S&W 64-2

Now I have heard this... wonder if Eez-ox would be better?

Eezox IS very good for all actions..cleans+lubes+will NOT gum up..I use the heck out of it. Bill..

 

[IndyGunworks]

Now I have heard this... wonder if Eez-ox would be better?

YES, eezox is a drying lubricant and doesnt leave behind a moist gummy mess. i use it exclusivly for this type of deal. every customers gun also gets a liberal coating of eezox before it leaves to door to make it look like a million bucks and help prevent against corrosion.

 

[Six Forty-Two]

Check the ejector rod. I have a Model 65 that the ejector rod will come unscrewed slightly and makes it difficult for the cylinder to open. I simply screw it tighter after firing 3-4 cylinders and have no problems.