Sighting a new scope

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • Tommy2Tone

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    14   0   0
    Sep 3, 2008
    776
    16
    Fishers, IN
    I just moved a scope that hasn't been used before over to my .22 b/c of the increases magnification. I went to sight it in yesterday and I could not get it to adjust enough to the right. I have shooting low left and was trying to get my left and right taken care of first before moving back to the range i wanted to zero in at. I kept adjusting more right, it would move right but not enough. This happened until the adjustment was maxed out in the right direction. Could this be a mounting problem? It is mounted to a Marlin model 60.
     

    Stschil

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 24, 2010
    5,995
    63
    At the edge of sanit
    Yes, check your mounts for sure. Also, this may sound really stupid, but I've seen it happen, make sure you have the adjustment knobs oriented correctly. I've seen scopes mounted where the elevation and traverse knobs were turned 90% left.
    If all is correct in the mounting the scope itself could be bad.
    Also, just spitballing here, are you cross eye dominant? If you are, try sighting/shooting lefty/righty whichever is opposite for you.
     

    Tommy2Tone

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    14   0   0
    Sep 3, 2008
    776
    16
    Fishers, IN
    You raise a really good question. I'm a newb when it comes to any optics. But the right left adjustment should be on top? And the up down on the side? If so, that's my problem if I remember correctly my right left was on the side.
     

    Stschil

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Aug 24, 2010
    5,995
    63
    At the edge of sanit
    You raise a really good question. I'm a newb when it comes to any optics. But the right left adjustment should be on top? And the up down on the side? If so, that's my problem if I remember correctly my right left was on the side.

    Sounds like you have it correct. The elevation should be on top and the traversing knob on the the right side.

    If you've never used this scope before, it's very possible that the optics have been jostled inside and just cannot be adjusted. I hate to bear bad news.
    Do you have a known good set of optics that you can swap out?
    How is the accuracy with the iron sites? If it's good, you can eliminate that as a the problem.
     

    Jay

    Gotta watch us old guys.....cause if you don't....
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Jan 19, 2008
    2,903
    38
    Near Marion, IN
    I believe you want the elevation turret on top, and the windage turret in the side. I'd suggest that you return the scope to "mechanical zero" by counting clicks from stop-to-stop...(or rotating within vee blocks). Set the rifle in a rest, aim at a known point "X". Fire a shot.... return the rifle to the rest and aim at the original "X".... then without moving the rifle, adjust your crosshairs to the bullet hole you just made. See how that works for you. Or, you're 45 min south of me. Drive up and we'll get it sighted in.
     
    Last edited:

    42769vette

    Grandmaster
    Industry Partner
    Rating - 100%
    52   0   0
    Oct 6, 2008
    15,242
    113
    south of richmond in
    You raise a really good question. I'm a newb when it comes to any optics. But the right left adjustment should be on top? And the up down on the side? If so, that's my problem if I remember correctly my right left was on the side.


    the elevation should be on the top, the wind should be on the right, if its a sf scope the sf should be on the left
     

    ckcollins2003

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Apr 29, 2011
    1,454
    48
    Muncie
    You raise a really good question. I'm a newb when it comes to any optics. But the right left adjustment should be on top? And the up down on the side? If so, that's my problem if I remember correctly my right left was on the side.

    As previously stated, your windage should be on the right of the scope and your elevation on top. Actually you can find out by looking on the knobs and seeing either a "R" or "L" with an arrow on one or the other. That will be your windage knob. The one with the "U" and an arrow means that is your elevation and "up" is that way. On every scope I've used, the knob on the right is your windage and if you turn it forward (from behind the rifle) then you are going right, which in turn will make your POI more to the left. And "up" is on the top of the scope and usually turns to the right to make the point of impact go higher.

    However I had a brand new scope have the same problem as you and it was because the scope was defective. Make sure your mounts are good and tight and the scope is level. If your crosshairs are crooked you may have problems. :)
     

    rangeguy

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jul 24, 2011
    16
    1
    Hagerstown
    I would suggest taping on the scope with the handle of a screw driver. Just tap dont bang it, sometimes especially in the cooler fall weather the mechanism in a scope will stick. This will help it move inside and may help your situation.
     
    Last edited:

    philagothon

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 25, 2010
    498
    16
    On the 7th step
    The good news is that you are starting off with a rifle that is typically quite accurate. How was it shooting with your chosen ammo when you were using iron sights? Assuming it was shooting well before, there's no reason a good scope should not be able to be brought to zero.

    Take off the scope and mounts and look for any potential problems such as burrs. If everything is good there remount the bases and scope using blue Locktite. Then return the scope to mechanical zero and set up a 1/4" grid target at 25 yards. Shooting from the most stable position practical (a rest if you have one, prone if you don't have a rest), shoot a 5 shot group and find the center of that group (ignoring any fliers). Then it's 4 clicks per 1/4" square (with most scopes). Eg: If the center of your group is 3" (12 squares) low and 2.25" (9 squares) left, you would adjust your scope 48 clicks up and 36 clicks left. Then confirm your adjustment by shooting another 5 shot group. Your group should be centered around your point-of-aim. If it's not, there are four possibilities: 1. You may have gone the wrong way with your adjustments. In that case double your move and this time do it in the right direction. 2. Your scope is not 1/4 MOA per click, in which case you should double check the turrets for the amount of adjustment per click and adjust your clicks as needed. 3. It's the dope behind the scope. Just kidding, but many people think a scope automatically makes it easier to shoot, when they can actually complicate some things. It never hurts to have a buddy try it to confirm it's the scope's fault and not yours. 4. Your scope is junk.

    Another thing to note: unless you got a scope specifically for a 22, there is a good chance the parallax is set much farther out than the distance you are shooting. Many fixed objective centerfire scopes have the parallax set anywhere 100 to 300 yards. This will show itself in the crosshairs seeming to move on the target if you move your head a little behind the scope. This can be fixed, but I'll save that for another post.

    There is an Appleseed in Atlanta on Nov 12 & 13. It's just a short drive for you and we'll have you dialed in pretty quickly and likely cut your groups in half by day's end on Saturday. Here's a link for info: 2011 Atlanta, IN Appleseed Information
     
    Top Bottom