Smith & Wesson 38 special: model 10-8 or 64-6?

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  • doddg

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    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
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    Excited about seeing the S/W 66-7 after school today.
    I found out early this am that he had lost the box with everything in it during a move.
    I have wondered when I meet him at 3:30 today if I should pay less than the $400 he's asking, maybe $25-$50 less?
    It's one thing to buy an old police model w/o it, but on a newer gun, it seems like that should be reflected in the price.

    What is your advice? Offer $XX less and walk away if not accept, or is it worth $400 easy w/o it.
    I buy my used guns at least $100 less than new, and at $400 this gun is $200 less than new, so maybe I shouldn't worry about it since there is no taxes and shipping involved?

    Sorry to be so "thrifty/cheap" but thinking like this is what keeps me from paying too much.
    I have passed up good deals b/c of researching something too long and someone steps up, recognizing a good deal and buys it.
    This is why I jumped on my Walther PPS M-2 LE used for $300, and my S/W 642 SS Airweight 5 shot new for $300, b/c I had looked at the prices enough to "know."
     

    LtScott14

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    Apr 13, 2008
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    Sounds like OP needs 2 S&W K Frames! 6in M10, and 4in M64! I have owned my M10-5(4in bbl, Blue, Tapered-Pencil bbl) for over 25 years. Carried much, shot a little. Good holster, belt, either drop pouch/ speedloader(single is easier to carry), or speed strips make carry easy. Yep, an untucked flannel shirt, or a Carhartt vest in winter, make it invisible. Easy to dress around a 4in Revolver. (use to carry a M66-4in 357 Mag. Duty issued to Dinosaurs in Law Enforcement. no issue to carry either.) The 6in could be done as well with a windbreaker.(not a shorty one. Longer Coach style) Keep both. (On the 642.... best Back Up to either K Frame. Have a 442 that is my traveling CCW, and a Glock 19, or a 1911A1 as a primary. Also the M10 if I feel nostalgic!!!) Good luck whatever you choose. Both good firearms.
     

    gregkl

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    The price should be decided upon before you meet in my opinion. If you agree to a price prior and then offer less after you have taken his time to meet you don't expect a friendly response.
     

    doddg

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    May 15, 2017
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    The price should be decided upon before you meet in my opinion. If you agree to a price prior and then offer less after you have taken his time to meet you don't expect a friendly response.

    I totally agree; if someone tries to jerk me around about price after meeting, I would just say, "I guess you don't want this then," and start walking away.
    You should see them backtrack. I've done that before with a car before, and a motorcycle.
    Legally, a counter offer negates the original offer and you can even raise the price: I've always wanted to do that!

    What I said was that I wanted to see the gun, and compare it to my 10-8.
    I did not agree to pay his price, but upon inspection it must be as he claimed, and I expect it will be.
    If it is not as "tight" as expected I will not buy it, but I expect it will be fine.
    The only reason I didn't have a dialogue about the price was that I did not find out about the no box, no manual and etc. until I got to work today.
    I do feel like that should have been told in our earlier 3 emails back and forth.
    Blame me for not asking the obvious, but if I show up and say, "Where is the box?" and it is missing, to me that is a problem, even though if the price is especially good, not one that can't be overcome. If I felt a guy had misrepresented I would not buy on principle, with a little anger mixed in, I'm sure.

    That is why I was asking the question, but noone has given input on whether no box and contents should mean a lower price since this price seems to be very good at $200 under selling price.
     

    gregkl

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    I like to have the boxes, but really it doesn't matter that much. I don't store them in the box so it gets stuck away somewhere in the event I might send it to S&W for warranty work or if I sell it. Then I can advertise that I have the original box, paperwork, etc.

    The last Smith I bought did not have a box but the price was right, so I didn't hesitate. And that one I had to send to Smith for recall modification. I just used my box from my 617 to send it.

    I wouldn't put more than about $10 on having the box. Unless it was one of those presentation boxes or a really old low serial number gun that might have value for the collector. But the gun itself has been used, even a nice box won't mean much to a collector. Shooter's don't care.
     

    mcapo

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    Mar 19, 2016
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    East of Hoosier45 - West of T-dogg
    If it is "shooter grade" then the box matters little.

    Collector grade or 50 years from now the box adds to marketability and maybe value.

    It will always be a little easier to sell with the box but let's be honest here- we are not talking a $5000 registered magnum....

    If you want advice - the price seems generally in the range of fair with or without the box given excellent condition but remember that advice is worth what you paid for it.

    I always prefer the box but for a shooter its never been a deal breaker. My "collector" guns (and I'm not talking $5000 registered magnums!!) mostly have boxes...
     

    doddg

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    I have the gun at home.
    The seller was retired and was working at Point Blank for the past 3 weeks for fun and had many stories to tell.
    I plied him with questions about everything and what he said was consistent in what I read here:
    a. small single-stack 9mms = Walther PPS, Smith Shield, Glock 43 and a couple more
    b. He had a couple of Taurus revolvers and had issues with them
    He even recommended some "mole skin" from CVS for my Walther issue of the trigger guard biting my middle finger.

    He brought a millimeter gauge (a call it a feeler gauge) and showed me the tolerances of his 64-7 and my 10-8.
    That was cool and instructive.

    I realized my 10-8 was a 4 inch and not a 6 inch.
    I'm so used the length of the gun barrels of my small 9mms (3-3+ inch) that when I looked at my Smith 10-8 I "assumed" it was a 6 inch.
    What a novice! :dunno:
     

    doddg

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    Must see photo or you must have made it up. :):

    1. I never even thought of it since there are pics on Armslist of everything all the time, but here is my vengeance of the new 64-7with a pic of the old 10-8 that I'm selling.
    2. I would have posted this 30 minutes ago, but I had to download the pics first b/c if I just copied and pasted the pic was HUGE.
    3. Plus, I had to take out time b/c 5 minutes after posting my old 10-8 SW police model, someone was asking about it and we are meeting this evening.
    4. I must be selling too low b/c I have sold 4 guns w/in 10 minutes to an hour posted either here or Armslist, and I started posting here after I got my 50 posts needed. Before that I had to buy and sell on Armslist b/c there is a rule here you can't until 50 posts? Strange. So I went elsewhere. Later, I was told I could join, pay my $25 (I think) and I did so I could deal with members here, which I have done b/c I like passing on my good buys since I enjoy the site so much and guys have given such good advice. I even enjoy the criticism. :laugh:
    5. If it didn't sell here soon, I would go to Armslist, but I have not had to do that, and I like it like that.
    SW old selling.jpg SW 38 SS left barrel.jpg SW 38 SS left angle.jpg SW 38 SS rt side.jpg SW 38 SS rt barrel.jpg SW 38 SS left cylinder.jpg
    raw
     

    doddg

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    I have the cash in my pocket from the sale of the 10-8.
    What a great guy that bought it.
    I learned much from him.
    He has many guns, but, like me wanted an older 38 model for all the same reasons we all go that route.
     

    Snapdragon

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    Nov 5, 2013
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    I'm a little mad at you because you sold it so cheap (and not to me). ;) I think you'll love the 64. I have a lot of Smiths, but that's one I'd never part with.
     

    doddg

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    I'm a little mad at you because you sold it so cheap (and not to me). ;) I think you'll love the 64. I have a lot of Smiths, but that's one I'd never part with.

    1. When I wrote the thread processing about buying the 64-7 SS, you should have given me a heads up that you wanted it; I would have been glad to have dealt with you.
    2. I had a guy do that when I mentioned selling my Walther
    PPS, when I processed about hurting my middle finger after a box, and how I was going to go after a Shield (b/c it felt better than the Glock 43).
    3. He had one and was willing to trade even before I listed it, but I thought my Walther needed a $75 extra with a Shield, but I appreciated the offer.
    4. I'm going to the range 1 more time to try it out since I really don't want to sell it anyway with the 6, 7 and 8 round mags and the night sights.



    We will anxiously await your range report!

    1. Will do!
     

    doddg

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    I did make it to the range today after I painted for three hours and looked for replacement for my broken wheel barrel, Ha!
    I started with my 9 mm ruger LC9 and then went to the Walther PPS.
    By using the ruby finger method I could shoot it without harm to my finger .
    I then put 4 magazines through my colt Mustang 380 . Then came the main event: my newly bought used Smith 64-7 stainless steel 38 special.
    It shot as expected.
    It seemed like the old 10-8 police special was a little more accurate but that could be simply because I had such high expectations with the newer gun.
    It was a pleasure to shoot.
     
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