Snub Nose Technique

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  • Dorky_D

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    Dec 4, 2010
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    Hey guys, I would consider myself still new to this stuff. I can shoot my snub nose pretty good at times, but I really want to work on some consistency. I am capable of putting all 5 shots in a 3" circle, but I confess I cannot do it every time. I can take my time and focus on my squeeze and steady hand, but I would say that is not all (though probably 80% or so).

    Is there a proper technique to hold a snub? It is a small grip, and I am still struggling to find my way on it.

    Also, if anyone can help me with the proper elbow technique (both locked/both not locked or some sort of other technique).

    It is a slighly different animal than a full size pistol, and different than an automatic, in that it has a hammer, and the cylinder release that has bitten my thumb more than once.

    Thanks!
     

    Kirk Freeman

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    Is there a proper technique to hold a snub? It is a small grip, and I am still struggling to find my way on it.

    How do you get hits? Whatever works for you.

    May want to try to choke up on the weapon, may want to try a Tyler T or Craig Spegel grips, trigger control, trigger control, trigger control.

    Also, if anyone can help me with the proper elbow technique (both locked/both not locked or some sort of other technique).

    :dunno: Whatever works for you, Weaver, Deep Weaver, Triangle, who cares.

    I look at snubs are back up guns, likely to be shot one handed with weak hand. It is for me getting my head kicked in in the parking lot so I worry about: accessing it, especially from my back or stomach, and trigger control.
     

    Kirk Freeman

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    Sounds like you are on your way, DD.

    My only advice is to shoot it a bunch and then buy another one just like it. The snub nose is a hard weapon to get proficient with (it can be done just takes time and effort). One to carry, one to shoot the snot out of.

    Here are the Spegel grips I mentioned:

    Craig Spegel - Custom Pistol Grips

    This is a Tyler T. If you find some, jump on them:


    197558963.jpg
     

    mikerccie

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    With all of my pistols (and rifles for that matter), I have to spend some serious time at the range working with just that one gun to become comfortable and reasonably consistent. If the gun supports it I do a bunch of dry firing (check your manual before doing this) to help me get more in the grove with the trigger.
     

    shootinghoosier

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    Take a snubbie class from Denny Reichert at the Sand Burr Gun Ranch in Rochester, IN if you want to learn how to shoot one really good.
     

    Pocketman

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    How do you get hits? Whatever works for you.

    May want to try to choke up on the weapon, may want to try a Tyler T or Craig Spegel grips, trigger control, trigger control, trigger control.



    :dunno: Whatever works for you, Weaver, Deep Weaver, Triangle, who cares.

    I look at snubs are back up guns, likely to be shot one handed with weak hand. It is for me getting my head kicked in in the parking lot so I worry about: accessing it, especially from my back or stomach, and trigger control.

    I've used an assortment of synthetic (rubber) grips, and have a bit more control. You want something that fits your hand well so that your hold is consistent. The little Tyler T helps and doesn't interfere with carry.

    While I've seen some pretty impressive shooting with a snub nose, it was never intended as a target gun, so don't get discouraged if you're unable to qualify as distinguished expert. lol
     

    Dorky_D

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    Yeah, I am not expecting to nail the bullseye every time. I can hit it and I am pretty proud of my shooting, but I want to get better. Thanks for the advice.
     

    rhino

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    One of the things Denny will teach you is that you need to have your finger far enough into the trigger guard so that the left edge of the trigger is touching the first joint of your finger (if you are shooting right-handed). That can really help get a more consistent trigger press directly to the rear without disturbing the alignment of the gun.

    Another key thing is that whatever grip you use, you have to make sure that you don't have anything (like a thumb) alongside (or in front of) the gap at the front end of the cylinder. When the revolver fires, very hot gases can emerge from there with significant pressure. With magnum calibers, people have severed parts of their thumb.
     

    sloughfoot

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    You say snubbie. A J-frame or K frame? Or is it a Colt snubbie?

    The answer to your question changes somewhat if it is a J frame or a K frame type snubbie.. No matter what though, if the cylinder release is biting, that is easily fixed by cutting off the lower half of it and contouring the edges.

    If your answer is a J-frame shooting 357 magnums, I can understand why your groups are poor.

    I await your answer for more detail.
     

    Dorky_D

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    It is a j-frame S&W .38 Chief's Special. It is an older one, and I am not going to be doing any permanenet mods to it like cutting the release. It was my grandfather's and, it being as old as it is, it is a bit of a collector's item to me at least.

    I believe the answer for the release biting my thumb, is to grip a little lower. I think too after watching a vid on youtube for pistol technique is I need to make sure the back strap is well seated in the web of my thumb, and use my weak hand to help tighten my grip (not a death grip). I think having my weak hand (left) point the thumb forward will help.
    I tend to want to have my left thumb cover my right, which makes it harder to pull the hammer back without re-adjusting. I think I am getting a better comfort level, I also want to work on my squeeze and arm positioning.
     

    Dorky_D

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    Kirk, do you know what size Tyler Ts you have? There are some on e-bay, but I would be buying blind at this point.

    That Nickle one looks almost like my J Frame in size/shape. Is that blued one a J frame? It looks almost identical to mine, except the butt is wider than mine.
     

    Kirk Freeman

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    Dork, I've got a bunch. Right now they are in piles of boxes in the re-modeled reloading/gun room. My dad is coming up Saturday and we are spending all day inside in the air conditioned gun room playing the "organize this pile" game.:D

    I'll dig for Tyler Ts and if I find J frames, I'll PM you, my fellow INGOer.

    Take a snubbie class from Denny Reichert at the Sand Burr Gun Ranch in Rochester, IN if you want to learn how to shoot one really good.

    Denny is a fantastic instructor if not teacher. He is quite a rare combination--Denny can do AND he can teach.

    He is our kind of people. If you can take his class, it is well within your best interests to do so.
     

    sloughfoot

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    Not wanting to modify your grandfathers gun is cool. Even breaking the sharp edges to make the gun more user friendly is probably out of the question too?

    Here is my lesson on shooting handguns in general, revolvers in particular, and rifles with pistol grips such as the AR type rifle.

    1. Get your hand as high up on the grip as possible.

    2. Hang on as tight as you can with the trigger hand. As if someone is trying to take the gun away from you. I guess you could describe it as a "death grip"......

    3. Train your trigger finger to move without moving any of the rest of your fingers or thumb or the hand in general.

    4. If you are going to use your other hand to support the trigger hand, grip snugly, but the grip should be less than the trigger hand. The grip should never be more with the support hand than the trigger hand.

    How do you do this? DRYFIRE. Hundreds or even thousands of double action dryfires while aiming the handgun at a point on the wall. The front sight should never move off the point on the wall when double action dry firing. No matter how fast you pull the trigger. Start off slow though and learn to "stage" the trigger.

    You know you are getting close when you shake someones hand and the trigger finger is not included in the grasp but is along the wrist of the other person. The goal is for the trigger finger to be totally independent from the rest of the hand.

    It is called the "shooters handshake". It is easily recognized.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited:

    NIFT

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    Not wanting to modify your grandfathers gun is cool. Even breaking the sharp edges to make the gun more user friendly is probably out of the question too?

    Here is my lesson on shooting handguns in general, revolvers in particular, and rifles with pistol grips such as the AR type rifle.

    1. Get your hand as high up on the grip as possible.

    2. Hang on as tight as you can with the trigger hand. As if someone is trying to take the gun away from you. I guess you could describe it as a "death grip"......

    3. Train your trigger finger to move without moving any of the rest of your fingers or thumb or the hand in general.

    4. If you are going to use your other hand to support the trigger hand, grip snugly, but the grip should be less than the trigger hand. The grip should never be more with the support hand than the trigger hand.

    How do you do this? DRYFIRE. Hundreds or even thousands of double action dryfires while aiming the handgun at a point on the wall. The front sight should never move off the point on the wall when double action dry firing. No matter how fast you pull the trigger. Start off slow though and learn to "stage" the trigger.

    You know you are getting close when you shake someones hand and the trigger finger is not included in the grasp but is along the wrist of the other person. The goal is for the trigger finger to be totally independent from the rest of the hand.

    It is called the "shooters handshake". It is easily recognized.

    Good luck.

    Excellent--especially the ones I bolded.
    Trigger control, which is isolating the flexors of the index finger, is the most challenging handgun shooting skill. The long trigger pull of double-action revolvers makes it more challenging, and heavy, ratchety actions in most snubbies make it even harder!
     

    Dorky_D

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    Thanks guys!
    I am a bass player as well, so finger control comes fairly easy, though it is a little different action. I have done some dry firing. I am not too bad at doing it slow, but i will work on it some more. Thanks for the advice!
     

    sloughfoot

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    Apr 17, 2008
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    FWIW, my favorite grip for the J-frame is the Uncle Mikes Boot grip. I have several Tyler T's in the bottom of the grip drawer. They are not as comfortable to shoot or carry as the boot grip.
     
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