So I got a scope, now its time to save up for the rifle

[churchmouse]

Graf & Sons - FEDERAL AMMO 308 WINCHESTER(7.62x51) 149gr FMJ 500/bx 2/cs

.75.4c per round. Federal ammo.

Not bad. Still salty for a guy like the OP in his currant job situation.

 

[Thor]

Yeah, just putting it out there...

 

[churchmouse]

Yeah, just putting it out there...

I can see the point of going with a less expensive alternative. Being retired my buying/trading/shooting is fully reliant on revenue streams outside of our fixed income. When that dries up, well, I will be looking at alternatives as well.

 

[danielson]

okay, I will definitely be considering a lessor caliber. Honestly the only reason I want a bigger caliber is because its cooler. A bigger boom, and more recoil is more fun, but Im not sure its worth the expense for just having fun.

 

[Mcqueen]

I have a savage 17 and like you it is a tack driver, and a lot cheeper to take to the range than a 308.

 

[danielson]

is 270 or 243 about the same price, average, of 308? Because what actually got me thinking about getting a longer range rifle was, back during the panic, the shelves were still full of 270 and 243, and I thought "hmm, I need to get me a good bolt gun in one of those calibers" But I dont remember how much the ammo was. lol

 

[seedubs1]

223/556, 762x39, 762x54r, 762x51/308, and some others are military rounds. They'll typically be the cheapest and readily available. It's not going to be cheaper to go to 243 over 308 just because the diameter of the bullet is smaller. That is...unless you reload. Reloading will significantly bring the cost of shooting centerfire rifles down. In addition, you'll get to tune loads to your gun to get the most accuracy.

 

[Thor]

More recoil IS more fun! Go with a .45-70! Don't need a scope on that though really...

 

[danielson]

Well, I think reality will get the best of me and I might just go .223
I have a pile of .223 that I found a good deal on back when I made my AR, and its pretty available, and well priced. I dont want the price of a weekend outing being an issue. I do want to reload, I been saying it for years. I have a place to do it now, but I make alot less money now as well. I think I will just save up, and decide later. But keep any ideas or thoughts coming, theres alot to learn from the INGO community.

 

[danielson]

Whats the skinny on rings? Every scope I have either came with rings, or was already installed on the rifle.

 

[42769vette]

Whats the skinny on rings? Every scope I have either came with rings, or was already installed on the rifle.

You have to know what your putting it on first.

 

[danielson]

Oh, I figured all rings were designed for a rail, on guns with a rail, you just pop it on, and on guns that are tapped, you buy screw in bases, which have a rail on top.

 

[tradertator]

Whats the skinny on rings? Every scope I have either came with rings, or was already installed on the rifle.

The most popular are weaver style (picantinny). They work well and probably give you the most play on where to mount the optic. Another style is dovetail, in which the ring goes into the base, and twist into place. Once locked in and the scope is mounted, theres really not much to come loose. Both of these can be bought in a 1 or 2 piece configuration. The benefit to a 2 piece base is it's a little easier to load if you have fat fingers, but a 1 piece can be stronger and some come with a recoil lug incorporated into them. Leupold standard bases have a dovetail front, and the rear allows the ring to be pushed left to right. I really don't care for them, but a lot of guys swear by them. You also have some firearms that use a proprietary ring system like Ruger.

Then you have different materials in which they're made. Steel being probably the strongest, but also heaviest. Aluminum being very common, often cheaper, and generally durable enough for most calibers. Also some alloys and exotics like titanium.

Your rings are going to come in a variety of heights depending on what your mounting them on. The general rule of thumb is mount as low to the bore as possible. The ring tops will mount with anything from 2 - 8 screws. Typically more screws = more durable, though it's probably not necessary for lighter calibers. If given the option, torx fasteners are less likely to strip. Some rings will benefit from lapping, higher quality ones generally don't require it.

 

[hooky]

You have to know what your putting it on first.

This

 

[42769vette]

Oh, I figured all rings were designed for a rail, on guns with a rail, you just pop it on, and on guns that are tapped, you buy screw in bases, which have a rail on top.

All of what trader said, and different rifles's require different height's, sometimes extention's etc.

 

[Faine]

I'm really not trying to confuse this issue, but something said above makes me want to ensure this is pointed out.

Make sure you know what rail system you have prior to ordering rings. Weaver and Picatinny are NOT the same. Their dimensions and specifications are not identical and this COULD cause issues with mounting. Additionally the rail's mfg could have tighter or more loose tolerances that can change how your rings/mount seat on the rail as well. Here's a link with a condensed explanation. It's not something that's going to be make or break 90% of the time, but it can be a little disheartening to get an optic and not be able to mount it because you inadvertently obtained the wrong rail system or didn't realize you need to swap the factory rail out. (Something I discovered with my first Ruger 10/22.)

Picatinny/Weaver Rails - What's the Difference?

 

[Bigphil5000]

Check out budget rifle build videos on YouTube by 8541 Tactical. He has a lot of great information about bedding rails, mounting rings and scopes ect. It was a valuable tool for me in my build.

 

[hooky]

People keep talking about rails. The OP is considering calibers that lend themselves to bolt guns. IMO, rails = forends on modular systems. Therefor, the considerations would be for bases that match receivers, not rails.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I think we're functionally talking about apples and oranges.

 

[tradertator]

I'm really not trying to confuse this issue, but something said above makes me want to ensure this is pointed out.

Make sure you know what rail system you have prior to ordering rings. Weaver and Picatinny are NOT the same. Their dimensions and specifications are not identical and this COULD cause issues with mounting. Additionally the rail's mfg could have tighter or more loose tolerances that can change how your rings/mount seat on the rail as well. Here's a link with a condensed explanation. It's not something that's going to be make or break 90% of the time, but it can be a little disheartening to get an optic and not be able to mount it because you inadvertently obtained the wrong rail system or didn't realize you need to swap the factory rail out. (Something I discovered with my first Ruger 10/22.)

Picatinny/Weaver Rails - What's the Difference?

You are correct, I was just talking in extremely generic terms in my readers-digest version of a much more complex topic.

 

[danielson]

Lots of info, thanks guys!!!