The Waterloo Battlefield

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  • rob63

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    I have previously posted threads with photos I took of the battlefields at Ypres and Normandy from my trip to Europe last summer, but I never got around to posting photos of the battlefield at Waterloo which I visited at the same time. I have had a little bit more free time recently and have finally been able to work on it. I included wartime photos in the previous threads to provide a "then and now" aspect, but since that is not possible this time I will include some paintings to hopefully give a similar effect.


    Considering that Waterloo is a battle most Americans have heard of, but probably don't know much about I think I should begin with a short synopsis of what led up to the battle. Napoleon had escaped from exile and was once again the leader of France. A large number of countries had formed another coalition to defeat him, but it would primarily be the forces of England, the Netherlands, and Prussia that would fight him at Waterloo. Napoleon marched his army into present day Belgium (a part of the Netherlands at the time) in an attempt to defeat the coalition armies separately before they could unite. Napoleon sent part of his army to block the British and Dutch while he led the remainder of his army in an attack on the Prussians, led by General von Blucher, whom he defeated at the battle of Ligny. Napoleon then reunited his army to fight the British, led by the Duke of Wellington, near Waterloo. He hoped to defeat them before the Prussians could recover from their defeat at Ligny.


    I'm beginning with a photo of the crossroads at the center of the British-Dutch lines since this crossroads is the explanation for why the battle took place where it did. Looking down the road we are facing West, the British-Dutch positions paralleling this road. The road in the center of the photo leads to Brussels to the North (right in the photo), with the French approaching from the South. The Duke of Wellington needed to defend the North-South road because it ran to his supply base in Brussels,only about 10 miles away, and he also wanted to protect the East-West road because he expected the Prussians to use this road to approach from the East. The famous lion mound is visible in this photo and is a good reference point for other places on the battlefield.
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    The crossroads in the previous photo is at the base of the arrow marked Uxbridge in this map of the battle.
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    This is a photo of the crossroads taken from atop the lion mound. This mound was constructed shortly after the battle to commemorate it. The name comes from the large lion statue on top. One of the downsides to the construction of this mound is that the dirt came from the immediate surroundings, thus altering the landscape of the battlefield. The road seen running into the distance was a sunken road that was a much greater obstacle than it appears to be now. The French attack went right to left in this photo, up the ridge. The buildings towards the right of the photo is la Haye Sainte, a fortified farm that the French captured at great cost.
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    This is where the battle started, the farm of Hougomont. The attack did not start until after 11:00am due to the rains of the previous day making the ground impassable. The French nearly succeeded in breaching the gates, hidden by the trees,on this north side of the farm at the very beginning of the battle. I should explain that the British defended 3 farms that extended a short distance in front of their main position on the ridge. Belgium had been in the path of invading armies for many, many years so these farms were all designed to be fortresses if needed. All of the buildings are connected by walls that form a courtyard. This particular farm was located on the right flank of the British position and formed a strong anchor for that flank.
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    A painting of the fight for Hougomont at the south gate. During the course of the afternoon, the British would use some 12,000 troops to defend this farm against 14,000 French attackers, although neither side ever had that many there at any one time. There were about 6,000 combined casualties at this farm. Victor Hugo famously wrote about the fighting here in Les Miserables.
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    The same gate today.
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    A painting of Dutch farmers burning the bodies at Hougomont after the battle.
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    The north gate that the French nearly broke through, taken from inside the farm. The figures at left are a memorial to the British soldiers that succeeded in shutting the gates after they were breached.
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    A painting of the fighting at this gate.
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    The interior of the courtyard at Hougomont. At center is the famous chapel that miraculously survived untouched even though the manor house it was attached to burned down during the battle.
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    Walls running east from the farmhouse. You can easily see why this was chosen as a defensive position.
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    A photo looking north, towards the location of the main British-Dutch line, from Hougomont. The memorial visible to the right is to French dead.
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    A close-up of the walls of Hougomont showing some of the damage that remains.
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    rob63

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    The French launched another large infantry attack, roughly 14,000 men, towards the center of the British position around 1:00pm.
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    The location of the infantry attack, which began in the distance and came towards this spot. The French artillery was located on the ridge in the distance. This photo was taken from the same location as the very first photo in this thread, only it is rotated 90 degrees south. The stone to the right of the photo is a memorial to Lt. General Sir Thomas Picton, commander of the British left wing, who died near this spot.
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    A sunken road not far from here that shows what the British-Dutch position may have looked like before the lion mound was constructed. It was probably not this deep, but it gives an idea.
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    A painting of the counter-attack of the Scots Greys Heavy Cavalry regiment. The French infantry attack nearly succeeded in breaking the British-Dutch line until counterattacked by two brigades of Heavy Cavalry.
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    The Heavy Cavalry charged down this hill, breaking the French infantry attack. Unfortunately, they then continued on down the hill until they were underneath the guns of the French artillery on the far ridge. Their horses exhausted, they were then counterattacked themselves by the French cavalry. They suffered 1200 casualties out of 2000 men in about 15 minutes of combat.
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    A view of the same section of the battlefield from the location of Napoleon's headquarters, looking North. You can barely see the lion mound to the left in the photo.The cars are on the North-South road that runs to Brussels, it is still a busy road. The French artillery was posted on the ridge extending to the right.
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    la Belle Alliance. Located near where Napoleon's HQ was, these buildings were used as hospitals after the battle. They were sitting empty when I visited, but had most recently been a nightclub.
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    rob63

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    The battle for la Haye Sainte, the farm that stood just forward of the center of the British-Dutch lines. It was garrisoned by 400 men of the King's German Legion who held back French attacks until they ran out of ammunition.
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    The farm as it looks today. It is still in private hands, so it is not accessible to the general public. I was told that the current owner has fired a shotgun at tourists peeking over the walls to get a better look.
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    Another painting of the fighting for la Haye Sainte.
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    The French launched a cavalry attack on the British center following the failure of the infantry attack. It consisted of 9,000 troops. The smoke on the right is from Hougomont which gives a better idea of where it is located in relation to everything else.
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    The view of the same ground today from atop the lion mound. Obviously, my combined photos don't match up to each other very well.
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    It is quite a climb to the top!
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    The British infantry formed squares to repel the cavalry attack. Horses would stop rather than charge into the bayonets of the front row.
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    Memorial to an artillery unit that remained at their guns, instead of retreating to the infantry squares, to fire into the charging cavalry. The French cavalry would have been moving right to left in this photo.
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    Another painting of the French cavalry attack.
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    The view of the same ground taken from the French side where the cavalry attack began.
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    The Papelotte farm that anchored the British-Dutch left flank is today a riding school. It was captured briefly by the French, but retaken as the Prussians approached.
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    A barn is all that remains of nearby La Haye farm, not to be confused with la Haye Sainte, that was also a strong-point. The farm burnt post-battle. The repairs to the stone work of the barn are obvious.
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    rob63

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    The British-Dutch were close to breaking from the combined French infantry and cavalry attacks. Napoleon then threw in the Imperial Guard Division in one last attempt to crack them. The timely arrival of the Prussian army, which had rallied after their earlier defeat and marched to Waterloo, ensured the defeat of the French. The Prussians struck the French in their rear at the village of Plancenoit.
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    The village as it looks today. It changed hands 7 times during the fighting, with no quarter given. The ferocity of the fighting is evident in that the French Young Guards Division suffered 96% casualties! The photo is taken from the ground defended by the French, facing in the direction the Prussian attack came from. The church was badly damaged during the fighting.
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    Another painting of the arrival of the Prussians.
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    The Prussian monument at Plancenoit, commemorating the 30,000 soldiers that fought there.
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    The grave of Lieutenant General Duhesme, commander of the French Young Guard Division, mortally wounded at Waterloo and buried in nearby Genappe.
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    There is an underground museum near the lion mound that was recently built for the 200[SUP]th [/SUP]anniversary of the battle. It includes excellent displays of the uniforms, which were rather colorful.
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    Cavalry wore breastplates called a cuirass. A couple of examples with battle damage.
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    They found the remains of a British soldier killed at Waterloo while digging the new museum and actually put him on display. I'm still not sure what to think of that.
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    Wellington's headquarters in the city of Waterloo, just north of the battlefield. It is now a museum.
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    Wellington's aide-de-camp Sir Alexander Gordon was mortally wounded and brought to the HQ. He died in this bed. His valet is on the table in the foreground.
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    Wellington wrote his report to the Queen announcing the victory while sitting at this table.
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    rob63

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    Personal effects of Napoleon on display at the Army museum in Paris.
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    Napoleon's horse, also on display in Paris.
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    Napoleon's tomb in Paris. I also visited Wellington's tomb in St. Paul's Cathedral in London, but photographs were not permitted. There were signs everywhere not to take photos out of respect for the dead, but then at the end of the tour there was a cafe and gift shop literally built on top of and among other tombs. I thought it kind of an odd juxtaposition.
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    Wellington's Arch near Hyde Park in London. His home is across the street from this, to my rear when I took the photo of the arch. The trees in the background of the arch photo are on the backside of Buckingham Palace. The entrance to the subway station at this location is covered with murals of the Waterloo battle.
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    Completely off topic, but there is a large surplus store specializing in American uniforms and equipment just south of the Waterloo battlefield in Baisy-Thy, Belgium. This is just some of the stuff that was sitting outdoors.
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    Once I had been there, I couldn't pass on the opportunity to acquire a French AN XIII Cavalry Pistol from the period!
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    rob63

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    Thanks for the kind replies, it is nice to have a place I can share this stuff with people that enjoy it!

    If anyone missed the earlier threads that I mentioned and is interested, here are links to them.

    Ypres

    Normandy
     

    Wolfhound

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    Rob's posts about his Europe trip are the definition of a quality post. I think you might have sold me a few surplus rifles to help fund the trip.

    Rob, how difficult was it to bring back that French cavalry pistol? Just check it in a bag since it's an antique or more to it than that? Or was it purchased here once you returned?
     
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    rob63

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    Rob's posts about his to Europe trip are the definition of a quality post. I think you might have sold me a few surplus rifles to help fund the trip.

    Rob, how difficult was it to bring back that French cavalry pistol? Just check it in a bag since it's an antique or more to it than that? Or was it purchased here once you returned?

    Thank you for the kind words!

    It was purchased here once I got back, just recently. The only things I brought back were some old postcards from Ypres and a bottle of wine from Italy for my wife. The bottle of wine was a PITA to get through customs, missed a flight because of it!

    I really, really, really, wanted to bring back a dug-up artillery shell from Ypres, but I knew there was no chance.

    Yes, the rifles I sold you did help fund the trip. It really was the trip of a lifetime, no regrets at all.
     

    Wolfhound

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    Thank you for the kind words!

    It was purchased here once I got back, just recently. The only things I brought back were some old postcards from Ypres and a bottle of wine from Italy for my wife. The bottle of wine was a PITA to get through customs, missed a flight because of it!

    I really, really, really, wanted to bring back a dug-up artillery shell from Ypres, but I knew there was no chance.

    Yes, the rifles I sold you did help fund the trip. It really was the trip of a lifetime, no regrets at all.

    Definitely looks like the trip of a lifetime. Money well spent for sure. Thanks for sharing the pictures. :yesway:
     

    Hoosierkav

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    Fantastic post(s)--very educational; I liked the current day photos compared/contrasted to the paintings--neat to see what the original buildings looked like.

    The infantry squares are impressive!
     
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