To BMW Owners, Merc and Audi owners

[ghuns]

How in heck does one replace brake fluid? Do you have to drain the whole system, refill it and bleed all four lines? Does brake fluid wear out or something? That's insane.

Not insane. Synthetic brake fluid will collect moisture over time. Long enough time, and fluid can boil or cause lines to rust from inside. The only thing I have EVER taken a car to a mechanic to have done was changing the brake fluid in my wife's Lexus. It calls for it to be done every 60K and the dealer charges about a hundred bucks to do it. They have a machine that makes it easy.

I will buy one of these the next time it's due...

Amazon.com: Motive Products 101 Brake System Power Bleeder: Automotive

 

[Brandon]

If I let BMW change my oil it would be $350. I do it for $150. Brakes are more expensive for the parts but just as easy if not easier to work on then other makes.

 

[churchmouse]

We do our own maint. on the rigs. When we do the brakes I open the bleeders on the calipers and push out the fluid instead of pushing it back to the master cylinder. If you watch the master fluid level it is a good indicator of pad thickness. Top it off after the pads are installed and pump up the brakes. Go around the vehicle and give each corner a few good squirts out of the bleeders and top it off when done. Fluid is nearly fresh. Also cycling the bleeders.
Simple process that adds about half an hour to the job. Brakes stay on top with the fresh fluid. Calipers live longer.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Um, so maybe use some non-synthetic DOT3? Aren't the lines stainless? Mine are. And how does moisture collect in a sealed system? I can see a little rubber deteriorating, but it's nearly as incompressible as the brake fluid, and as long as you haven't actually sprung a leak, it'll work fine. 30000 miles? That's just an excuse to extract money from the ignorant. I've had cars go 10 times that with just pads and rotors, and they'll still lock up when you slam on the brake pedal.

 

[churchmouse]

Um, so maybe use some non-synthetic DOT3? Aren't the lines stainless? Mine are. And how does moisture collect in a sealed system? I can see a little rubber deteriorating, but it's nearly as incompressible as the brake fluid, and as long as you haven't actually sprung a leak, it'll work fine. 30000 miles? That's just an excuse to extract money from the ignorant. I've had cars go 10 times that with just pads and rotors, and they'll still lock up when you slam on the brake pedal.

Some systems will not like the DOT 3. Also DOT 3 eats paint. Synthetic does not. Saves your but if you spill it.

If you look at your fluid in the calipers at those time spans it is crap.

Just because it still "Locks-em-up" does not mean it is in good to go. Fluid does get boiled at times during panic situations. I started the fluid cycling deal a long time ago. It is just another step in proper brake maint.

 

[jetmechG550]

Um, so maybe use some non-synthetic DOT3? Aren't the lines stainless? Mine are. And how does moisture collect in a sealed system? I can see a little rubber deteriorating, but it's nearly as incompressible as the brake fluid, and as long as you haven't actually sprung a leak, it'll work fine. 30000 miles? That's just an excuse to extract money from the ignorant. I've had cars go 10 times that with just pads and rotors, and they'll still lock up when you slam on the brake pedal.

Seals not compatible and as hot as brakes get, the heating and then cooling of the fluid is no different than how motor oil breaks down. The heating and cooling also introduces moisture.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

how much more "good to go" do you need? Go ahead and spend the money on that, fine with me. I'm not driving so much anymore; I have a 94 chicken with about 72K (odometer broke at 71024) and if it ever got to 100k in my lifetime I'd probably die anyway, of shock. 10 GT Mustang is still a ways away from 20k, and it had nearly 9k when I got it. In 2010. I change oil on time vs mileage. That's worth changing. This thread was seriously the first time I had ever heard of changing brake fluid. Do you change your steering fluid as well?

 

[Denny347]

how much more "good to go" do you need? Go ahead and spend the money on that, fine with me. I'm not driving so much anymore; I have a 94 chicken with about 72K (odometer broke at 71024) and if it ever got to 100k in my lifetime I'd probably die anyway, of shock. 10 GT Mustang is still a ways away from 20k, and it had nearly 9k when I got it. In 2010. I change oil on time vs mileage. That's worth changing. This thread was seriously the first time I had ever heard of changing brake fluid. Do you change your steering fluid as well?

HowStuffWorks "Is brake flushing really necessary?"

Why Change Brake Fluid

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061212005102AAMcxKb

 

[Denny347]

A few years ago (before we traded it in), I replaced the brakes on our 2002 Ford Explorer. It had 100+k on it and I never thought to change brake fluid. Maybe they was why I had to replace all 4 calipers when I changed out the rotors/pads as they were locking up from internal rust. Had to replace lines as well.

 

[churchmouse]

how much more "good to go" do you need? Go ahead and spend the money on that, fine with me. I'm not driving so much anymore; I have a 94 chicken with about 72K (odometer broke at 71024) and if it ever got to 100k in my lifetime I'd probably die anyway, of shock. 10 GT Mustang is still a ways away from 20k, and it had nearly 9k when I got it. In 2010. I change oil on time vs mileage. That's worth changing. This thread was seriously the first time I had ever heard of changing brake fluid. Do you change your steering fluid as well?

Never mess with the steering fluids unless something fails and then yes.....new fluid.
I service my Transmissions at 50/100K
I service the differentials at the same mileage.
We do the oil at 4K and rotate the tires at that time. Tires go a lot longer this way.
I am maint. minded. My vehicles go a long way without major component failure.

 

[churchmouse]

A few years ago (before we traded it in), I replaced the brakes on our 2002 Ford Explorer. It had 100+k on it and I never thought to change brake fluid. Maybe they was why I had to replace all 4 calipers when I changed out the rotors/pads as they were locking up from internal rust. Had to replace lines as well.

Bingo.

 

[KLB]

Because German engineering?

I love my Audi, but I tell anybody that asks, don't buy one if you can't fix it yourself or buy a new one with warranty and get rid of it before the warranty expires. We are a four car family with two German cars and two Japanese cars. The maintenance cost and reliability of the Japanese cars make them great, but they just aren't any fun to drive.

Try an Infiniti.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

HowStuffWorks "Is brake flushing really necessary?"

Why Change Brake Fluid

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061212005102AAMcxKb

Yeah, the first one was where I'd got the 30000 number. I'm simply not convinced, just leave it at that. Maybe in my old age I've become cynical or paranoid of people trying to rip me off, but this just seems too much to me like a scheme.

 

[Brandon]

Also change the coolant as well.

 

[vitamink]

Try changing Humvee brakes. They're located inboard, just left and right of the differential. You have to remove the CV joints to get to them. If i paid someone to do it, i would probably have to get a second mortgage. Luckily parts are plentiful as surplus and .gov uses high end brakes and what not. One of the issues with high end vehicles is all the fluids and coolers that other cars don't have. Trans, oil, turbo/supercharger etc. That's more stuff than can go bad and cost $$$. I have an engine radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler….all these "coolers" and no F'n air conditioning.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Try changing Humvee brakes. They're located inboard, just left and right of the differential. You have to remove the CV joints to get to them. If i paid someone to do it, i would probably have to get a second mortgage. Luckily parts are plentiful as surplus and .gov uses high end brakes and what not. One of the issues with high end vehicles is all the fluids and coolers that other cars don't have. Trans, oil, turbo/supercharger etc. That's more stuff than can go bad and cost $$$. I have an engine radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler….all these "coolers" and no F'n air conditioning.

Be careful what you ask for, you may just get it.

 

[tetsujin79]

I had a 2004 Audi S4. I did my own minor service (oil & brakes).

Oil changes were 9.5 quarts of oil, OW-30.

The filter had to be ordered as it wasn't a local parts shop stocking item.

The brake rotors were expensive because they weighed about 20 pounds a piece and that drove shipping prices since they weren't a locally stocked item.

I had to buy special power steering fluid from... You get the idea.


Mostly I say parts need to be shipped to the states and a lot of platform specific idiosyncrasies drive the prices.

Also, you're not driving a Honda. The dealers knows this and most of the people that purchase these cars know that, so everybody plays along like it's somehow not four wheels and an engine. It is what it is.

For the record, I loved that car. It was worth every penny and drop of blood.

But then again, I understood what I was getting into. It's like those guys that buy that certain crap generation of BMW 7 series that gets zero love from the BMW faithful, then wonder why their repair bills are insane. Well, you bought a used $60-70Kcar for $15K with 30K miles on it. There was a reason it was that cheap...

 

[jetmechG550]

Try an Infiniti.

Ha, my SIL tried poking fun of our Bavarian machine, her Infiniti is in the shop every other month to a tune of $500+ every time. I told her it needs more work than my pathfinder which had the funk tranny. I will never ever own anything again that falls under the Nissan banner.

 

[churchmouse]

Yeah, the first one was where I'd got the 30000 number. I'm simply not convinced, just leave it at that. Maybe in my old age I've become cynical or paranoid of people trying to rip me off, but this just seems too much to me like a scheme.

Doing it myself saves a load of money and it is not that hard to do. If you flush yours on the next pad change do it in a clear vessel an get back with me on what the fluid looks like and how much crud is in it. I would never do this if it were not beneficial.
I see your point but it is something more folks should do.
Also the coolant will go south on you after a time. Check it with a good hydrometer.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

For many years I've collected my fluid in a glass jar with a poly tube when I change pads and bleed the lines, as much to prevent a mess on the driveway as anything. It's always been clear enough to just put back in the reservoir. Never had any snot or anything in it, and I've done pads anywhere up to >200k. Usually don't have a car that long.