Unlearing Trigger reset...

[zip]

For the past few years I have shot Glocks almost exclusively, as a result I learned the trigger reset to the point it became second nature. Recently I purchased a S&W Bodyguard .380 as a back up alternate carry piece. It's DOA. I have put about a 2000 rounds through it. Every time I start to release the trigger I get to the point where I feel a click in the trigger. At this point I automatically stop and squeeze for the follow up shot. The S&W does not fire, because I still has another 1/2 inch or so of travel before the trigger resets.

This is driving me nuts. Does anyone have any ideas on how to break this habit. I want to maintain constant contact with the trigger, so slapping if out of the question for this and other reasons.

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[threefiftyfour]

replace the S&W Bodyguard with a Glock?

 

[zip]

Thats not really an option. I have issue with my sciatic nerve and at times have problems carrying any Glock ( including a G26) strong side. The S&W is light enough in my pocket that it does not aggravate my back and nerve on days I am having problems.

 

[jdhaines]

Replace it with something that allows you to shoot from reset. Even if the reset is long, it shouldn't click before its ready to fire again. Firing from reset isn't something you should be unlearning.

EDIT: Posted at the same time as your last one...

 

[Indy_Guy_77]

Range time and training are what you need...

What I found in the class I took was that shooting from reset in a fast-paced environment just wasn't practical for me.

Slow fire square range target practice? Absolutely shoot from reset.

So, just invest in some more trigger time, you'll learn the new weapon.

-J-

 

[RBrianHarless]

Range time and mentally acknowledging the fact that you are not using a Glock but a Smith and Wesson. I carry a Glock and sometimes carry a Ruger LCP as a backup. I practice with both at the range. Stay conscious and focused when switching over to your backup.

 

[BrewerGeorge]

I went through a similar transition between Glock and Kahr - although was more about accuracy for me than failure to fire.

Only answer is: Practice, practice, practice. Slow down a lot, then speed up as you can. Recognize that for this and other reasons like size you probably will not be as fast with the BG as with the Glock. Put some random snap caps into your magazines to mix things up.

You'll get there. I can now use either one with no problem. Took about 500 rounds with the Kahr for me to get the breakthrough. Don't be discouraged because it's quite possible that you won't see much improvement for a while, then suddenly it will work. The lack of steady progress wouldn't surprise me because muscle memory works funny.

 

[Paul Gomez]

Zip,

There are three or four commonly taught ways to work a trigger.

Trigger Reset is the most common because it is easy to teach and easy for the shooter to self-coach. However, it can be problematic when dealing with guns with significantly different triggers.

Slack Out is taught by Mid-South, and a number of others. One of the reasons for 'Slack Out' shooting is to prevent 'trigger freeze' which is a common issue for guys trying to use 'trigger reset' on gun designs with widely varying trigger characteristics [the SIG 226 and the MP-5 come to mind]. In 'Slack Out' shooting, the shooter flicks his finger forward, often until it hits the inside the trigger guard, and returns it rearward to the 'slack out' point.

'Flip & Press' is how the Rogers School addresses trigger. Again, the focus is on moving the trigger throughout its' range of motion to eliminate trigger freeze. With 'F&P', the trigger is trapped to the rear following the shot breaking and flipped forward and all the way back again to fire following shots.

The fourth way, which is the simplest method for working with long throw triggers, is called 'constant contact'. Using this one, the trigger is allowed to return to its' fully forward position without the trigger finger losing contact. When the decision to fire has been made, the trigger is worked much like zipping a zipper. In other words, once you start applying pressure you continue rolling through until the shot breaks and then roll it back to its' start position.

I tend to allow all triggers to move past the reset point and then bring short triggers back to slack out. On the Bodyguard/KelTec/Ruger LCP/Kahr, I use the fourth method.

Regardless of how you choose to manipulate the trigger, you've got to put in the time/reps to inculcate the action. Thankfully, that can be done through structured dry practice, so you don't have to expend a ton of ammo.