Used revolver help.

[HighStrung]

So I'm in the market for my first revolver. I grew up shooting my dad's Super Blackhawk .44 (among several auto's) but this will be my first wheel gun. I'm attempting to keep costs lower by buying used. I'm looking at a Ruger GP-100 or the SP-101 in .357. My question is simple, what do I need to look for in a quality used revolver? What defines a revolver thats been taken care of vs. one that I should stay away from? Right now, the other question is whether or not I can find one used, seems like everyone who has one of these wants to keep it . I'll buy new if I have to but I'm willing to wait it out for a couple months to try and find a used one. I admit that I'm somewhat uneducated in the revolver world and any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance INGO.

 

[JetGirl]

Best advice I can give you is the advice someone once gave me.
Get your hands on a new one first. Wiggle things around to get a feel for how snug things are (for example, the cylinder when it's shut...then when it's opened). Check out the feel of the whole frame when you try to test for play.
Then remember how it felt when you do the same thing while checking used ones. A small amount of "looseness" can be attributed to break-in or use. But for the most part, you'll be able to spot a well cared for revolver.
Other than that, check for pitting from rust etc. Take a bore light with you.
Hope that helps a little!

 

[22rssix]

Revolver Checkout Procedure

A SP or GP are build like tanks. It would take a lot or someone doing poor gunsmith work on one to hurt it.

Check the link out, it contains good info on what to look for.

 

[GLV]

Go to smith-wessonforum.com and look under FAQs

 

[pute62]

Don't count out the Ruger Security Six and the Service Six! Older but good guns! Also don't be afraid of a Taurus or Rossie. Look for a tight lockup,the depth of the ring around the cylinder, and look at the end of the cylinder.If a wheelgun has been shot much it will be erroded around the end of the cylinder.

 

[451_Detonics]

This is a tough area for a newbie. First you need to know what end play, timing, cylinder play, cylinder gap, etc all mean.

Revolver Checkout Procedure

Having a few tools with you will also help, feeler gauges, good bore light, and, if you can borrow a set, range rods.

Here is what I do when looking at a used revolver.

1. Check the sideplate screws, if the screw slots are buggered up it normally means a kitchen table gunsmith has been at work, not good.

2. Check the flame cutting on the top strap. All revolvers will flame cut if they have been shot much, it isn't a concern unless it is overly deep or wide. Most hit a max of about 10% of the thickness of the top strap or less and stop eroding further at that point. Deeper flame cutting is the result of a lot light bullets at very high velocities. Normally not a concern.

3. Check end play. With your thumb on the hammer cock it and the use the trigger to bring the hammer back to rest...do not release the trigger but hold it in the rear position. Any excessive fore and aft movement of the cylinder is not good. (all will move a tiny bit)

4. Timing, this is where range rods come in handy. Point the muzzle straight up. Pull the trigger completely through to the rear and hold it there. (if the owner doesn't mind dry firing do so otherwise ride the hammer forward with your thumb) Drop a service range rod into muzzle, it should fall all the way through to the firing pin. Do this on all cylinder chambers. If it won't take a service range rod pass...fixing timing can be frustrating and costly. I would buy a revolver unless it will take a match range rod which has tighter tolerances than a service rod.

5. If the revolver is SA/DA or SA only check to see if it will push off. Cock the hammer completely to the read and then push the hammer forward. If it will push off this is a sign of a wannabe gunsmith having worked on it.

These are the basics, you also need to do a good visual inspection of the bore, firing pin and bushing if hammer mounted, pull the grips and look under them if possible. With the hammer puller about half way back turn the cylinder, if it binds in places this means the ejector round is probably bent. Check the cylinder star, are the locator pins present?

Best thing you can do however is to take a buddy who is knowledgeable about revolvers with you...I do mean someone who knows, not someone who thinks they know.

If a wheelgun has been shot much it will be erroded around the end of the cylinder.

This one I had to address...revolver cylinder normally don't erode on the cylinder face. My L-Frame competition gun has had probably 150,000 - 200,000 rounds through it...no erosion. Yes, it is discolored...but not eroded.

 

[Kirk Freeman]

The American Rifleman had a great article on purchasing used revolvers in the early 90s. I photocopied it and used it to buy a bunch of guns throughout the '90s and 2000s.

I'll see if I can find it.

 

[Colt556]

As usual, .451 is right on the money! You say things much more eloquently that I ever could. I didn't know about the range rod though. to be honst not really certain what that item is. I did the same test but just made sure the cylinder was in the notches solidly.

 

[JetGirl]

This is a tough area for a newbie. First you need to know what end play, timing, cylinder play, cylinder gap, etc all mean.

Revolver Checkout Procedure

Having a few tools with you will also help, feeler gauges, good bore light, and, if you can borrow a set, range rods.

Here is what I do when looking at a used revolver.

1. Check the sideplate screws, if the screw slots are buggered up it normally means a kitchen table gunsmith has been at work, not good.

2. Check the flame cutting on the top strap. All revolvers will flame cut if they have been shot much, it isn't a concern unless it is overly deep or wide. Most hit a max of about 10% of the thickness of the top strap or less and stop eroding further at that point. Deeper flame cutting is the result of a lot light bullets at very high velocities. Normally not a concern.

3. Check end play. With your thumb on the hammer cock it and the use the trigger to bring the hammer back to rest...do not release the trigger but hold it in the rear position. Any excessive fore and aft movement of the cylinder is not good. (all will move a tiny bit)

4. Timing, this is where range rods come in handy. Point the muzzle straight up. Pull the trigger completely through to the rear and hold it there. (if the owner doesn't mind dry firing do so otherwise ride the hammer forward with your thumb) Drop a service range rod into muzzle, it should fall all the way through to the firing pin. Do this on all cylinder chambers. If it won't take a service range rod pass...fixing timing can be frustrating and costly. I would buy a revolver unless it will take a match range rod which has tighter tolerances than a service rod.

5. If the revolver is SA/DA or SA only check to see if it will push off. Cock the hammer completely to the read and then push the hammer forward. If it will push off this is a sign of a wannabe gunsmith having worked on it.

These are the basics, you also need to do a good visual inspection of the bore, firing pin and bushing if hammer mounted, pull the grips and look under them if possible. With the hammer puller about half way back turn the cylinder, if it binds in places this means the ejector round is probably bent. Check the cylinder star, are the locator pins present?

Best thing you can do however is to take a buddy who is knowledgeable about revolvers with you...I do mean someone who knows, not someone who thinks they know.

This one I had to address...revolver cylinder normally don't erode on the cylinder face. My L-Frame competition gun has had probably 150,000 - 200,000 rounds through it...no erosion. Yes, it is discolored...but not eroded.

Awesome post.

 

[451_Detonics]

A range rod is a metal cylinder that is long enough the be in both the barrel and the full length of the cylinder at the same time. You attach it to a cleaning rod to give it something to pull it back out with. For a 38 revolver, as an example, the service rod is .355 diameter. If it falls cleanly to the cylinder this means the cylinder hole and the barrel are lining up correctly. A match rod is .3565 (if memory serves me correctly)...if it falls cleanly through you have near perfect alignment.

You check every chamber in the cylinder because not all may be correctly timed. And..very important...oil the range rod!