Vault door suggestions

[gmcttr]

If you use a standard (commercial grade) steel door and it swings out, be sure to use commercial NRP (non-removable pin) hinges and a latch guard. Also fill the frame with mortar. These steps will slow down "dumb kids" with a pry bar. Me...I would drill the lock in a couple of minutes...you learn that kind of thing after many remodel jobs and hundreds of commercial door/hardware installations.

 

[JettaKnight]

If you use a standard (commercial grade) steel door and it swings out, be sure to use commercial NRP (non-removable pin) hinges and a latch guard. Also fill the frame with mortar. These steps will slow down "dumb kids" with a pry bar. Me...I would drill the lock in a couple of minutes...you learn that kind of thing after many remodel jobs and hundreds of commercial door/hardware installations.

So, if you went that route, would swing out, or swing in be preferred?

I would assume you can add more deadbolts, maybe one of those big cross bar locks.

Maybe like this: Maximum Duty Hollow Metal Doors, 14 Gauge Steel Door

 

[bobjones223]

So, if you went that route, would swing out, or swing in be preferred?

I would assume you can add more deadbolts, maybe one of those big cross bar locks.

Maybe like this: Maximum Duty Hollow Metal Doors, 14 Gauge Steel Door

 

[cosermann]

It kinda frustrates me that I could buy 4 big safes for the price of a door... .

I think you might be getting at something here. A cheaper alternative might be to buy a regular safe or two and bolt them down in this room.

Then, put a decent steel exterior door on it with good locks (of if there's a sturdy door on it already, just beef it up a bit).

That would leave you with 2 layers instead of 1. Perp would have to get past the exterior door. If/when they do, then would have to get past the safes inside.

Exterior door could be camouflaged a bit for another layer.

Alarm system, exterior lights, etc. It's all layers to discourage and delay.

 

[ACC]

Look into Smith Security Safes in OH. Custom vault door maker.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I think you might be getting at something here. A cheaper alternative might be to buy a regular safe or two and bolt them down in this room.

Then, put a decent steel exterior door on it with good locks (of if there's a sturdy door on it already, just beef it up a bit).

That would leave you with 2 layers instead of 1. Perp would have to get past the exterior door. If/when they do, then would have to get past the safes inside.

Exterior door could be camouflaged a bit for another layer.

Alarm system, exterior lights, etc. It's all layers to discourage and delay.

Even better. Hide the steel door.
Install a visible dummy vault door across the room.
Install a hidden camera to catch their expressions when they get the vault door open and see this.

 

[JettaKnight]

Get four inexpensive doors and only one opens into the vault?

 

[JettaKnight]

Alarm system, exterior lights, etc. It's all layers to discourage and delay.

Oh, I like this. put the vault door behind a regular hollow wood door with a hidden closet light switch.

Door opens, switch closes, alarm (with external sirens) goes off.... unless you first close a secret bypass switch.

Now they see the real door and have to decide if they want to attempt to break in while the alarm is blaring, and preferable, you've been notified to the breach.

 

[Alamo]

Get four in expensive doors and only one opens into the vault?

Now this has potential.

You could put out a sign that says "Attention Burglars! Each of the doors has One of the following Prizes behind it!"
"1) Guns.
"2) Ammo.
"3) Gold Bullion.
"4) TrigglyPuff - Naked"

Your stash would be burglar proof.


Seriously, unless you want to go full TL-30x6, probably the best combo is a substantial steel door behind a regular door or otherwise hidden.

 

[IndyIN]

It kinda frustrates me that I could buy 4 big safes for the price of a door... Seems like there is something wrong with that. I'll make some calls I guess.

Hopefully, I'm not resurrecting too old of a thread. I'm in the market to buy a vault door, as well.

This is what I've figured out on the cost of the vault doors... you get what you pay for. The vault doors by themselves can weigh 800lbs or more, and spec wise blow the budget safes that I could get out of the water. Also, with the vault doors you are talking about 30" or 36" wide ... More material= higher cost.

I've not been able to find an exact cost to build a safe online (no surprise), but I wouldn't be surprised to find out that the cost of the door/mechanism is 75% of the cost of a safe. It sort of makes sense that a vault door is expensive.

Personally, a vault door appeals to my inner child In reality, I could (and should) probably just get a high quality steel security door. Use a dead bolt, with a keyless entry setup, and call it a day. With my cellular alarm system blasting, hopefully someone trying get in only has a few minutes to do it. From a fire protection standpoint, I'm probably not giving up too much. If the keyless lock failed on me, I'd have a much easier path to get in vs. a vault door. With that said, I'll probably go down the stupid path and buy a vault door.

Looking around at options, I found a couple that are high on my list. First, AMSEC seems to have a high quality door. Bob's Master Safe and Lock sells them for MAP, and is local to Indianapolis - Bob's Master Safe and Lock

Sturdy Safe is also on my list - https://www.sturdysafe.com/products/vault-door

... and Johnson Safe's Fort Knox vault door is a consideration.