Waiting for my Lee Deluxe Turret...Have a few questions

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  • modelflyer2003

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    I just bought the Lee Deluxe press kit. I kicked around buying the Classic press, but money was an issue. The Classic kit had fewer extras. I know that you could argue the point, but I’m passed that point now, so just smile with me. I will be loading 95% 9mm and 5% .38 rounds. I bought the Lyman Reloading Handbook, 49th Edition. I didn’t buy the .38 dies or turret plate yet for them yet, because my Taurus 605 needs repaired anyway. I currently shoot about 50-100 rounds per week of almost all 9mm in my Glock 26 but some from my Beretta 92FS Compact.

    Can I remove the slight bulging of the case near the base with the LEE Deluxe Pistol 4-Die Set I purchased?

    Does the plastic autoprimer for the Classic press work with the Deluxe? I can’t see that it does or that it doesn’t. I am torn between getting one and getting a hand primer. Any suggestions?

    Where in the heck can I get primers? Since I ordered the kit the other day I have searched in vain for primers. I know I will eventually find them, and when I do I will buy a thousand or two. I’ve come to the conclusion that I will have to get in the van and take a trip. I saw one website that mentioned a $25 hazmat fee. Is this normal?

    I know that a vibratory case cleaner is a real plus, but I am going to have to save that for the future. I am considering washing my brass in a bucket with water and a little bit of spic and span. Is this acceptable? I know they would have to dry really well. Would it be better to wash them after de-priming? I see people on YouTube tumbling their brass then de-priming and inserting a new primer on the same stroke of the press. Would it not be better to clean after de-priming so the primer pocket can get clean also? I know the answer is probably so obvious to some. Thanks for your help.
     

    NWIeng

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    Does the plastic autoprimer for the Classic press work with the Deluxe? I can’t see that it does or that it doesn’t. I am torn between getting one and getting a hand primer. Any suggestions?


    I've got this exact press up and running. When I do case prep, I deprime through the resizing die with it set in single stage mode, without the auto index piece installed.

    Since I'm already doing all my case prep separate from the loading operation, I'd go with the hand primer if you're really going to be cleaning and inspecting the brass.
     

    walt o

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    Hi doe's your press have the lever arm primer system on the ram .If it doe's you can use the safety primer system . ausually your press needs to have the upgraded ram to have it . Look at the LEE web site to get information & instructions.
    It depends on how bad the bulges are on the 9mm lee makes a die to completely size the shell but they are not encluded in the 3 or 4 die set .Most of my 9mm cases are bulged a little but feed ok in the gun's
     
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    45-70

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    I just bought the Lee Deluxe press kit. I kicked around buying the Classic press, but money was an issue. The Classic kit had fewer extras. I know that you could argue the point, but I’m passed that point now, so just smile with me. I will be loading 95% 9mm and 5% .38 rounds. I bought the Lyman Reloading Handbook, 49th Edition. I didn’t buy the .38 dies or turret plate yet for them yet, because my Taurus 605 needs repaired anyway. I currently shoot about 50-100 rounds per week of almost all 9mm in my Glock 26 but some from my Beretta 92FS Compact.

    Can I remove the slight bulging of the case near the base with the LEE Deluxe Pistol 4-Die Set I purchased?

    Get yourself a "Lee Bulge Buster" for about $20

    Does the plastic autoprimer for the Classic press work with the Deluxe? I can’t see that it does or that it doesn’t. I am torn between getting one and getting a hand primer. Any suggestions?

    Yes if you are referring to the Lee Classic Turret

    Where in the heck can I get primers? Since I ordered the kit the other day I have searched in vain for primers. I know I will eventually find them, and when I do I will buy a thousand or two. I’ve come to the conclusion that I will have to get in the van and take a trip. I saw one website that mentioned a $25 hazmat fee. Is this normal?

    I buy by the case because of the Hazmat fees and everyone I know of charges it. Between $22.50 and $25. For the last year and a half or so primers have been hard to come by. Best to put some on order now and wait till they show up.

    I know that a vibratory case cleaner is a real plus, but I am going to have to save that for the future. I am considering washing my brass in a bucket with water and a little bit of spic and span. Is this acceptable? I know they would have to dry really well. Would it be better to wash them after de-priming? I see people on YouTube tumbling their brass then de-priming and inserting a new primer on the same stroke of the press. Would it not be better to clean after de-priming so the primer pocket can get clean also? I know the answer is probably so obvious to some. Thanks for your help.

    I've always tumbled then deprime then clean the primer pocket before reloading. Just a personal choice. No more than you are shooting I would just wipe them off and reload them until I could get a case cleaner.



     

    XtremeVel

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    I prefer the Lee hand held primer. It's reasonable priced, but you would also need a special shell holder ( auto prime shell holder). I like running the cases thru the sizer and deprimer then walking away and do all my priming somewhere else.

    If you set the dies right, the slight bulges shouldn't be a problem. In that 4 die set, you have to sizer dies ! If the finished round drops in your gage and barrel right, you are fine.

    As for primers, if your only gonna buy 1000 or so, might check a gander mountain. Here in Ft. Wayne, they usually have primers, but the price is ridiculous. If I remember right, about $ 50.00 per 1000. But, if you order by mail and only get 1000, would be about the same cost by the time you figure in the haz mat fee. If you got a few buddies needing primers too, you could put some on back order and all split the shipping fees.
     

    modelflyer2003

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    Thanks for your help and advice, everyone. Last week I started going through my brass I had saved from previous firings, and I found that about 1 in 15 didnt' want to go fully into the barrel of the disassembled Glock 26. Most went in fine, but some stuck out about 3mm or so. I set those aside. It sounds like with the Lee Deluxe pistol 4-die set I won't have too much to worry about unless of course the bulge is an obvious problem.
     

    Sailor

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    If your are going to be reusing your brass you may want to consider buying an after market barrel for your glock that will more fully support the bulged/resized brass. Bad things happen if brass fails there.
     

    silentvoice71

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    you should have a resizing and decapping die..........It will resize and decap that primers for you and BTW the bulging cases are goin to need to be trimmed.......Just check for cracks. Make your first loads kinda slow so you get a good feel to loading first......make sure if your not using that auto index when you put your powder in you dont double charge it....or you will have a sweet glock explosion.
     

    XtremeVel

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    Thanks for your help and advice, everyone. Last week I started going through my brass I had saved from previous firings, and I found that about 1 in 15 didnt' want to go fully into the barrel of the disassembled Glock 26. Most went in fine, but some stuck out about 3mm or so. I set those aside. It sounds like with the Lee Deluxe pistol 4-die set I won't have too much to worry about unless of course the bulge is an obvious problem.

    If I take this right, you are checking this before you resized them ? If thats the case, try resizing and droping them in a gage or barrel then. Also, check again after the round is complete.

    As for a after market barrel... If we are in fact talking about 9mm, I wouldn't be so worried about it. The bulging issue is more a problem in the .40 S & W. Also, some of the after market barrels are " short or tight " chamered and will give you other issues to work out. I have some KKM barrels and some are very very tight !

    Maybe I have just been fortuanate, but I have never found the short 9mm cases to grow, thus never had the need to trim. Also remember, you will be using a taper crimp, so very consistant lenghts aren't as critical as they would be for good uniform '' roll " crimps as used in some revolver rounds.
     

    silentvoice71

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    i was makin sure because a bulge usually means the metal has expanded so once he uses that resizing die it might make the case taller......weather the case grows enough to affect feeding or make the case stick out of the barrel more is kinda unknow until you put the reloaded bullet into the barrel.....or measure the case with a set of mics.
     

    XtremeVel

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    i was makin sure because a bulge usually means the metal has expanded so once he uses that resizing die it might make the case taller......weather the case grows enough to affect feeding or make the case stick out of the barrel more is kinda unknow until you put the reloaded bullet into the barrel.....or measure the case with a set of mics.


    Yes, hard to know until its been resized. Along with putting it in a barrel and making sure it seats right, might also be good to spend $ 12.00 on a gage. I like to also know that it will function in any future 9mm I might buy..

    If you try to mic the case, just be aware it is actually NOT a straight walled caliber. It is actually tapered about .012 from web to the case mouth.
     

    Dr Falken

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    If I take this right, you are checking this before you resized them ? If thats the case, try resizing and droping them in a gage or barrel then. Also, check again after the round is complete.

    As for a after market barrel... If we are in fact talking about 9mm, I wouldn't be so worried about it. The bulging issue is more a problem in the .40 S & W. Also, some of the after market barrels are " short or tight " chamered and will give you other issues to work out. I have some KKM barrels and some are very very tight !

    Maybe I have just been fortuanate, but I have never found the short 9mm cases to grow, thus never had the need to trim. Also remember, you will be using a taper crimp, so very consistant lenghts aren't as critical as they would be for good uniform '' roll " crimps as used in some revolver rounds.
    I'd agree with this based on my experience and readings. Good advice.
     

    Sailor

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    The path of least resistance is directly towards your hand in a case failure of pot bellied brass. I am not risking it any more even though it is 9mm.

    $110.00 is nothing for safety, plus with a threaded barrel I can eventually try out that new 4 inch suppressor! :D
     

    XtremeVel

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    The path of least resistance is directly towards your hand in a case failure of pot bellied brass. I am not risking it any more even though it is 9mm.

    $110.00 is nothing for safety, plus with a threaded barrel I can eventually try out that new 4 inch suppressor! :D

    Your points are true. Especially the part you say even tho it's a 9mm. The small cased 9mm shouldn't be taken lightly. The fact its such a small capacity case capable of high pressures ( 35,000 + psi) bears this out. But saying this, make sure you truly have a " bulging " issue before spending money thinking it will be making a difference. Like mentioned above, it's the .40 thats known to have the issue. The 9mm case will be much bigger ( maybe as much as .012 ) toward the end of the web than it is at the mouth in any barrel you shoot it out of. The 9mm unlike the .40, is a tapered case. If it is more than this and is truly " bulging ", than I might consider a aftermarket barrel.
     
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