What's your favorite off the shelf .357 Mag ammo?

[gstanley102]

I had a problem at the Lafayette gun show yesterday.

I picked up a GP100 Match Champion and couldn't seem to put it down.
In the end I had to put it down so they could box it up and then it followed me home.
Now I need to figure out what to feed it.

Being new to wheel guns I have no point of reference.

I plan to use it for plinking, target shooting, and home protection.

What is your favorite off the shelf ammo?

Where do you find it at the best price?

Thanks in advance.

 

[cmamath13]

I run 38 SPL P+ more than 357 or 38 in my 357. Not sure if that's going to meet your needs, but I love Remington UMC Ammunition 38 Special +P 125 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point!

You can find it at most places for under $20 a box. $17 per box is a good deal.

Here it is at midway:
Remington UMC Ammo 38 Special +P 125 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point

 

[mssmith44]

I thing for the best reliability, I would go with Federal. They use better primers for revolvers.
Even if your revolver can fire all brands, You really want the best.

 

[Ballstater98]

I am still plying around with ammo brands. I have not found any duds yet.

Cabela's is having an ammo sale right now:
Ammunition | Rifle, Pistol & Shotgun Ammo : Cabela's

You can also check out:
In Stock 357 Mag Ammo Deals | Slickguns

 

[in625shooter]

I use revolvers most of the time, As far as 357 for defense about any 125 gr JHP will do. I really like God Dots but about any will be good and you are simply splitting hairs, the Rem Golden Saber 125's run a little slower but they still are fine. For general shooting 357 I occasionally hand load some 158 gr lead SWC

For 38 Special I have several +P's and am found of the old school 158 gr Lead SWC hollow point but also have and carry the newer bonded 125-135 gr JHP since they can be found about anywhere. For shooting matches and general shooting I load 158 gr SWC and or 158 gr Round Nose.

 

[Drail]

I must agree with mssmith44. If you do not reload - you have essentially two choices - Federal - and everything else. One other small piece of advice - avoid all of the light 110-125 HIGH VELOCITY +P ammo that everybody will swear are the best self defense loads (THAT is an Internet rumor). Bullets traveling that fast will GREATLY accelerate wear and tear on the forcing cone. This is not an Internet rumor. People have been tearing up revolvers for many many years with these silly loads. I have seen it and even done it myself when I was younger and dumber. Stick with 140-158 grain ammo. Your gun will thank you. OK, I'm ready for my obligatory flaming.

 

[Snapdragon]

250 rds. 158 Grain .357 Magnum FMJ Ammo - 235830, .357 Magnum Ammo at Sportsman's Guide

Best .357 target ammo I've shot. I try to catch Sportsman's Guide when they have free shipping.

 

[gstanley102]

Before I started this thread I picked up a couple of boxes of PMC 158gr JSP at Rural King.
My selection was entirely because there were only 2 boxes left on the shelf, while several other brands were there in abundance.
As a rule I like PMC in my autos. Never fails, feeds well, and shoots clean.

It appears from the responses that most favor the heavier bullets.
Is there a reason for this?

 

[Ballstater98]

Before I started this thread I picked up a couple of boxes of PMC 158gr JSP at Rural King.
My selection was entirely because there were only 2 boxes left on the shelf, while several other brands were there in abundance.
As a rule I like PMC in my autos. Never fails, feeds well, and shoots clean.

It appears from the responses that most favor the heavier bullets.
Is there a reason for this?

I ran a box of those PMC's through already. Surprisingly accurate...or maybe it was the shooter.

 

[warthog]

For SD? Hornady LeverAction in both handgun and rifles I shoot reloads for training and such.

 

[in625shooter]

I must agree with mssmith44. If you do not reload - you have essentially two choices - Federal - and everything else. One other small piece of advice - avoid all of the light 110-125 HIGH VELOCITY +P ammo that everybody will swear are the best self defense loads (THAT is an Internet rumor). Bullets traveling that fast will GREATLY accelerate wear and tear on the forcing cone. This is not an Internet rumor. People have been tearing up revolvers for many many years with these silly loads. I have seen it and even done it myself when I was younger and dumber. Stick with 140-158 grain ammo. Your gun will thank you. OK, I'm ready for my obligatory flaming.

No flaming however, with the L Frame S&W or GP 100 not sure how a +P will wear out the forcing cone. On the +P's there is a BIG difference between a +p in 38's (at 1.000 fps) and 357 Mags (at 1450 fps) In the late 1970's when a lot of agencies went from the 158 gr to the 125 gr JHP in their 357's there were a few cases where there was accelerating wear on forcing cones with a steady diet of the new 125 gr on the K frame S&W's. That led to the introduction of the beefier L frame S&W 686 which was followed by the Ruger GP 100 which uses the same L frame speed loaders and have a much more re-in-forced forcing cone. This new L frame/GP 100 design enabled the shooters to use a steady diet of 125 grain 357 mags without cracking forcing cones like what happened on a few K frames. Of course with that said there is nothing that is bad, not knowing what they are doing hand loader proof.

Also the whole Federal primers only suggestion is usually only reserved for PPC or competition revolvers, most set up for off the shelf or duty use will function with any make of ammo/primers.

 

[gibby]

No flaming however, with the L Frame S&W or GP 100 not sure how a +P will wear out the forcing cone. On the +P's there is a BIG difference between a +p in 38's (at 1.000 fps) and 357 Mags (at 1450 fps) In the late 1970's when a lot of agencies went from the 158 gr to the 125 gr JHP in their 357's there were a few cases where there was accelerating wear on forcing cones with a steady diet of the new 125 gr on the K frame S&W's. That led to the introduction of the beefier L frame S&W 686 which was followed by the Ruger GP 100 which uses the same L frame speed loaders and have a much more re-in-forced forcing cone. This new L frame/GP 100 design enabled the shooters to use a steady diet of 125 grain 357 mags without cracking forcing cones like what happened on a few K frames. Of course with that said there is nothing that is bad, not knowing what they are doing hand loader proof.

Also the whole Federal primers only suggestion is usually only reserved for PPC or competition revolvers, most set up for off the shelf or duty use will function with any make of ammo/primers.

Correct. Point of Ref. GunDigest Book of Concealed Carry By Massod Ayoob might help you choose a defensive load.

 

[Mgderf]

Hornady Critical Defense

www.hornady.com/store/critical_defense

 

[looney2ns]

Defensive load Either Hornady Critical Defense or Hornady Custom XTP 158 Grain.

For plinking, what ever is cheap and does not have the name Winchester anywhere on it.

Or Freedom Munitions Remanufactured ammo.
They have 5% off today.
And if you are a new customer, free shipping to boot.

 

[Drail]

Believe it or not I trashed a brand new GP 100 with 110 gr. loads that came straight out of the Speer No 11 manual. And it only took about 2 months to do it (probably less than 400 rounds). The load used Blue Dot powder and it ate the forcing cone metal just like an oxy acetylene cutting torch. I still have that gun. That load is no longer listed in the current Speer manuals. (thanks a lot Speer) The lighter weight bullets leave the cylinder faster and expose the forcing cone to more hot gas and for a longer time than a heavy bullet load. Don't take my word for it - read Kuhnhausen"s Ruger DA revolver Shop Manual. He has many nice photographs of Ruger revolvers that were trashed by unknowing owners. Stick with 140 - 158 gr. loads at any velocity and you won't have any problems. The combination of +P pressure curves and lightweight bullets absolutely will accelerate the wear on the forcing cone of any revolver.

 

[Snapdragon]

Defensive load Either Hornady Critical Defense or Hornady Custom XTP 158 Grain.

For plinking, what ever is cheap and does not have the name Winchester anywhere on it.

Or Freedom Munitions Remanufactured ammo.
They have 5% off today.
And if you are a new customer, free shipping to boot.

I've never found .357 at Freedom Munitions. That's exclusively where I get my .38 spl though.

 

[SSGSAD]

.38 spl. +P, bad wrists .....

 

[cmamath13]

Believe it or not I trashed a brand new GP 100 with 110 gr. loads that came straight out of the Speer No 11 manual. And it only took about 2 months to do it (probably less than 400 rounds). The load used Blue Dot powder and it ate the forcing cone metal just like an oxy acetylene cutting torch. I still have that gun. That load is no longer listed in the current Speer manuals. (thanks a lot Speer) The lighter weight bullets leave the cylinder faster and expose the forcing cone to more hot gas and for a longer time than a heavy bullet load. Don't take my word for it - read Kuhnhausen"s Ruger DA revolver Shop Manual. He has many nice photographs of Ruger revolvers that were trashed by unknowing owners. Stick with 140 - 158 gr. loads at any velocity and you won't have any problems. The combination of +P pressure curves and lightweight bullets absolutely will accelerate the wear on the forcing cone of any revolver.

That's good information. I didn't know this. Thanks for posting.

 

[gstanley102]

Believe it or not I trashed a brand new GP 100 with 110 gr. loads that came straight out of the Speer No 11 manual. And it only took about 2 months to do it (probably less than 400 rounds). The load used Blue Dot powder and it ate the forcing cone metal just like an oxy acetylene cutting torch. I still have that gun. That load is no longer listed in the current Speer manuals. (thanks a lot Speer) The lighter weight bullets leave the cylinder faster and expose the forcing cone to more hot gas and for a longer time than a heavy bullet load. Don't take my word for it - read Kuhnhausen"s Ruger DA revolver Shop Manual. He has many nice photographs of Ruger revolvers that were trashed by unknowing owners. Stick with 140 - 158 gr. loads at any velocity and you won't have any problems. The combination of +P pressure curves and lightweight bullets absolutely will accelerate the wear on the forcing cone of any revolver.

Thanks for the info.

It looks like I have some reading to do.

 

[throttletony]

For SD? Hornady LeverAction in both handgun and rifles I shoot reloads for training and such.

I respect Warthog, so I won't openly disagree with him. For loading BOTH a revolver and a rifle, this makes perfect sense.
However, there are much better loads for handgun only - like the Hornday critical defense or their 158 gr offering (custom? maybe). I know that the critical defense loads are supposed to be low-flash (I haven't verified yet), also Buffalo bore, Rem Golden Sabre, Corbon, etc.

There are some youtube chrono tests of the Leverevolution stuff through handguns that aren't stellar. It seems that the powder is meant to have a 16-18" burn (down the barrel of a lever action carbine, for example), and only does ok in shorter barrels (especially 2-3" barrels)
NOW -- mediocre performance from a 357 is still better than the good performance of many other rounds.

If you're looking for raw POWER, there are a few Buffalo Bore loads that are over 800 ft/lbs of energy, which is at the very tip-top of 357. (I think they are 180 gr pills, not sure of muzzle velocity)

Also remember, different bullets for different purposes --- there's no need to plink with hollowpoints, etc.