Whirlpool/Kenmore direct drive drain pump question

[miguel]

Appliance repair pros...I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer (model 11026902691) that is failing to drain. The thing is 16 years old and I should probably buy a new one, but I'm a cheapskate!

In the past couple of years, I have done some maintenance on it so I'm not bashful about getting my hands dirty. Work I've done has included replacing the coupler and the dog ears on the agitator.

If I open the lid during the spin cycle, and depress the lid switch, it will spin (albeit slowly) through the cycle, but won't drain a drop. My assumption is to replace the drain pump, easy peasy, but before I put another $30 in this bad boy, I am looking for reassurance this is the likely culprit. The reason I ask is that after I used the ShopVac to drain the tub, I removed the drain pump to check it out.

The piece that the motor's shaft inserts into appear to be rather out of round -- see photo below -- but that said, if I jam a socket wrench adapter into it, the wheels inside the pump do rotate. Not quickly, but they do rotate. No obstructions appear in the pump itself (socks, debris, etc.) fwiw.

My question is how easily should the wheels within the pump turn? Should they spin like a windmill on a windy day or simply rotate slowlywhen force is applied? Just not sure what the normal behavior. Not sure if bearings in the pump can wear out or the pump wheels become less "spinny" over time.

p.s. I have not checked the clutch, because it's a pain in the rear, but I probably should on general principle.

 

[remauto1187]

Check this link out for ideas: Troubleshooting Why the Washer Won't Drain | PartSelect.com - YouTube

I use service those when I was a repairman for sears many years ago. You have a whirlpool washer there of course (all sears 110 prefix washer/dryers are whirlpool). No drain symptom. Well as you know the pump is coupled to the motor directly off the end of the output shaft then the other end of the output shaft has a coupler that connects it to the transmission. During the wash cycle the motor turns one direction and during the spin/drain cycle the motor turns in the opposite direction. It is quite possible that your water pump is stripped where the motor shaft goes in to it. Check the pump for bra wires. If the wife/daughter is missing them then thats where they typically end up. Check hose from washer tub to the pump and the pump to the drain in your wall for obstructions. Socks, baby clothes are typical culprits here.

Pump will be very hard to turn but not IMPOSSIBLE to turn when turned by hand/tools normally. If it is locked up then there is something in there.

 

[miguel]

Check this link out for ideas: Troubleshooting Why the Washer Won't Drain | PartSelect.com - YouTube

I use service those when I was a repairman for sears many years ago. You have a whirlpool washer there of course (all sears 110 prefix washer/dryers are whirlpool). No drain symptom. Well as you know the pump is coupled to the motor directly off the end of the output shaft then the other end of the output shaft has a coupler that connects it to the transmission. During the wash cycle the motor turns one direction and during the spin/drain cycle the motor turns in the opposite direction. It is quite possible that your water pump is stripped where the motor shaft goes in to it. Check the pump for bra wires. If the wife/daughter is missing them then thats where they typically end up. Check hose from washer tub to the pump and the pump to the drain in your wall for obstructions. Socks, baby clothes are typical culprits here.

Pump will be very hard to turn but not IMPOSSIBLE to turn when turned by hand/tools normally. If it is locked up then there is something in there.

Thanks, Rem!

I've confirmed there are no obstructions. From my image, do you think the output shaft could be failing to properly engage the impeller? It looks kinda rounded to me, while the image of the pump on the parts websites looks like it has perfectly flat edges on two sides.

Or do you think there is any chance the bearings on the impeller could be bad and are stopping the water from draining? I was able to spin it, but it was hard to do so. Not sure if those can lock up or what?

I am not sure if what else is involved in regulating the water level in the tub? Does the spin cycle just force water to spin the impellers to allow the water to exit?

 

[sig-guy]

One turn of the shaft equals one turn on the propeller. Motor spins one way for agitation and the other way to drain. The pump only pumps while turning the correct way.

Sounds like you have a faulty pump.

 

[miguel]

One turn of the shaft equals one turn on the propeller. Motor spins one way for agitation and the other way to drain. The pump only pumps while turning the correct way.

Sounds like you have a faulty pump.

Thanks Rem and Sig, I'm heading to the appliance parts store over lunch and will report back to the group on my progress!

 

[remauto1187]

Looking closer at the pump engagement area it sure looks like it has rounded the flats completely out. The output shaft of the whirlpool motor has flats also and that is how it manages to turn the impeller of the pump. The pump should be fairly hard but not impossible to turn. They are normally very stiff to turn. Bearings or seal failure of the water pump will cause very different symptoms than what you have. You should be good to go with a new pump. These series 80/90 washers will last a long time with just a husband/wife but will start to wearout its consumable parts with a family of 4 or more easily. The coupler, water pump, water valve, timer are normally wearout items for the whirlpool washers.

 

[miguel]

Ran to Sears today and found the part: $50. Installed in about 10 minutes, including forgetting where I put the retaining clips to hold the pump onto the motor mount.

Ran a load and it works fine!

Thanks for the encouragement, fellas. Like I say, I don't mind doing repairs myself, but this one had me discouraged at first.