Who makes the best dies for .300 Blackout?

[EPD1102]

I'm planning to start loading some .300 Blackout with my Dillon 650. Whose dies do you guys recommend? If you don't mind sharing, why do you recommend that brand?
Thanks

 

[ZbornacSVT]

Had zero problems with my redding dies and lee crimp die

 

[fireball168]

Redding 300/221.

Less neck tension, body dimensions are a bit tighter.

Not so great a thing if you are going to run fired military brass though.

 

[EPD1102]

Redding 300/221.

Less neck tension, body dimensions are a bit tighter.

Not so great a thing if you are going to run fired military brass though.

I was planning to make my own .300 brass from .223 brass. Is that what you mean?

 

[ZbornacSVT]

I was planning to make my own .300 brass from .223 brass. Is that what you mean?

What method o you plan to use?

 

[gopurdue02]

I have been using redding die set with my converted range pickup .223 (Head stamps all over the place) with zero issues with 3K rounds so far. If you are going that route, using converted brass, I suggest you outsource and buy the converted brass online on gunbroker. I made a 200 round lot and from start to finish it took 4 hours to get 200 rounds up and running. Zero issue with functioning properly...but way to much time given my current time constraints. However, I absolutely positively love the .300 AAC round! It fits in with my existing .308 eco-system for bullets and powder was easy to come by at Profire. Love shooting it and love realoding it...brass stretch is almost no-existent after three reloads and I still haven't trimmed given their +/- .20 threshold which is almost un-heard of and still accurate at 100 yards!

 

[Broom_jm]

I have been using redding die set with my converted range pickup .223 (Head stamps all over the place) with zero issues with 3K rounds so far. If you are going that route, using converted brass, I suggest you outsource and buy the converted brass online on gunbroker. I made a 200 round lot and from start to finish it took 4 hours to get 200 rounds up and running. Zero issue with functioning properly...but way to much time given my current time constraints. However, I absolutely positively love the .300 AAC round! It fits in with my existing .308 eco-system for bullets and powder was easy to come by at Profire. Love shooting it and love realoding it...brass stretch is almost no-existent after three reloads and I still haven't trimmed given their +/- .20 threshold which is almost un-heard of and still accurate at 100 yards!

Good to know you're enjoying your 300 AAC, but if you were to measure the actual chamber of most rifles, you'd discover that the difference between trim-to length and true maximum case length, it probably does come close to .040". (You are suggesting the variance on 300 AAC brass is plus or minus 2 TENTHS of an inch...which is dead wrong...it's plus or minus 20 THOUSANDTHS. )

I'm sitting here wondering how many firings it would take for brass to stretch .200"

 

[gopurdue02]

Good to know you're enjoying your 300 AAC, but if you were to measure the actual chamber of most rifles, you'd discover that the difference between trim-to length and true maximum case length, it probably does come close to .040". (You are suggesting the variance on 300 AAC brass is plus or minus 2 TENTHS of an inch...which is dead wrong...it's plus or minus 20 THOUSANDTHS. )

I'm sitting here wondering how many firings it would take for brass to stretch .200"

I stand corrected Never make a posting before going to bed...

 

[jwh20]

I was planning to make my own .300 brass from .223 brass. Is that what you mean?

Did you see my write-up on making 300 BLK from .223/5.56 and reloading them? Here's a link in case you missed that:

https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/ammunition_and_reloading/292977-reloading_300_aac_blackout_using_223_5_56_cases.html

Anyway, I've been using Lee dies for 300 BLK. I've had good results with both converted .223 & 5.56 brass and reloading 300 BLK brass. I've probably loaded 500 rounds so far and have had no issues at all.

 

[x10]

I'm still waiting but In past experience Dillon dies have never let me down, I'm not planning on forming brass just reloading it.

 

[gopurdue02]

Did you see my write-up on making 300 BLK from .223/5.56 and reloading them? Here's a link in case you missed that:

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...ng_300_aac_blackout_using_223_5_56_cases.html

Anyway, I've been using Lee dies for 300 BLK. I've had good results with both converted .223 & 5.56 brass and reloading 300 BLK brass. I've probably loaded 500 rounds so far and have had no issues at all.

Thanks for that write up btw. Based upon your work I decided to make the jump into reloading/shooting .300 blackout. It is by far the easiest rifle caliber (That I own at least) to reload.

 

[EPD1102]

What method o you plan to use?

I've read the posts by jwh20 and some others about making the brass. Some of the posts do like he says and cut the brass, shape it, trim it to final size, and then reload it. I've also seen some posts where they form the brass, then cut it, and then reload it.
I'm probably going to try both ways if I can to see which one seems to work better for me. I guess it will also depend on if the dies will allow me to shape it before I've cut it.
I plan to use one of the small cutoff saws to cut the brass down. I've got about 15 gallons of .223 brass to play with and that's one of the reasons that I'm looking at .300 Blackout. I'm also interested since I can build it into a pistol and use it for deer in Indiana.

 

[Sean]

I find it easiest to rough cut, size, then trim to final. I use the jig made by vz58 over at 300blktlk for my cutoff saw, it makes life easy. I use Forster dies with the micrometer seater it makes switching between different projectiles a little easier. If you're going to convert a large amount I suggest investing in the jig.

300BlkTalk • View topic - Case cut off tool. #### low inventory ####

 

[atalon]

I've read the posts by jwh20 and some others about making the brass. Some of the posts do like he says and cut the brass, shape it, trim it to final size, and then reload it. I've also seen some posts where they form the brass, then cut it, and then reload it.
I'm probably going to try both ways if I can to see which one seems to work better for me. I guess it will also depend on if the dies will allow me to shape it before I've cut it.
I plan to use one of the small cutoff saws to cut the brass down. I've got about 15 gallons of .223 brass to play with and that's one of the reasons that I'm looking at .300 Blackout. I'm also interested since I can build it into a pistol and use it for deer in Indiana.

I don't think all dies let you shape before you cut the cases. Some are not tall enough or have an expander. So be careful on that first one or you could have a nasty stuck case.

 

[atalon]

I find it easiest to rough cut, size, then trim to final. I use the jig made by vz58 over at 300blktlk for my cutoff saw, it makes life easy. I use Forster dies with the micrometer seater it makes switching between different projectiles a little easier. If you're going to convert a large amount I suggest investing in the jig.

300BlkTalk • View topic - Case cut off tool. #### low inventory ####

I have been slacking on picking one of these up. Hopefully he still some when I get paid next.

 

[EPD1102]

I have been slacking on picking one of these up. Hopefully he still some when I get paid next.

As long as people are buying them, I'm sure he'll keep making them. I'm planning to get one of those too.

 

[neeltburn]

Ive been making 300 brass out of lake city brass. Sizing with both forester and honady dies. Now issues with either, I cut the brass, full length size it, trim it and the. Load it. FYI when you full length size them to form them make sure you use enough case lube. I had to get a stuck case remover but that was not the die. I also need to pick up the linked jig, the saw from Harbor Frieght does a decent job of cutting brass.