Woodworking - Lumber Question

[gregkl]

Thank you for all of the input.

It is outdoor, and the idea is to have some budget friendly options to play around with before sinking several grand input all new store bought furniture.

Anyone have any plans or preferred sites for plans like this?

I realize that a finish will be important to try to seal, since I don’t plan to use cedar or something better.

I am thinking 2x material as a majority of the plans online I’m seeing are 2x material.

In addition to trying to rip down 2x6s for getting better boards, I also thought ripping off the rounded edges may make for a cleaner finished product.

I realistically only have access to a Menards.

I would still pass on the ripped 2X6's.

Unless you are edge joining boards, there is no need to rip the rounded edges off. Most woodworkers "round" the edges. This is for two purposes at least; for coating adhesion and for comfort.

If you are using construction grade lumber, understand that you will have to refinish often to keep it for any length of time. It will rot and likely sooner than you think. And purchase the "premium" studs from Menards. They tend to be straighter with better grain and looks.

You might even look at their Douglas Fir grade. I have only used it once and that was for some 4x4 posts for some bunk beds I made for my son. Like Hough, those twins could sit on those and they would hold up. My son abused it for 14 years or so. Now my two grandsons are trying to see if they can destroy it. Spoiler: they can't.. Fir is more rot and insect resistant.

If you are not going to paint, you might have some luck with using Helmsman for a top coat. I have a sitting bench with oak slats that has held up for going on 4 years now and it still looks like I just finished it. Disclaimer: it is on my front porch so it doesn't get any direct rain just the moisture that's in the air and morning sun.

 

[04FXSTS]

If you do go with 2x6 ripped down to size I would suggest ripping 1/2 from each side. I have found just cutting from one side will cause the piece to bow. Jim.

 

[schmart]

I would not suggest attempting to rip 2x6 lumber for this project, as it really isn't any more quality than the 2x4s. You will still have cathedral grain boards, and I've seen both pieces of the 2x6 immediately bow into a banana as the internal stresses were released. For non-treated lumber, where I need a board to stay straight on an interior project, I've purchased a 2x8 or even a 2x10, and ripped what I wanted out of the middle. That way I got much straighter, and close to quarter sawn grain.
You mentioned not wanting the rounded corners... my experience with treated and construction lumber is the exact opposite. Sharp corners end up being splinter farms as the wood ends up brittle.
If you want really nice furniture, then cedar, cypress, or (if in the west) redwood would be excellent choices.
A possible option is a hybrid using 2x4 treated lumber for structure, and a composite material for seating/table surfaces.

--Rick

 

[illini40]

Thanks again for all of the replies.

For reference, here are the chairs I’m considering attempting.

https://rogueengineer.com/diy-outdoor-arm-chair-plans/

So it sounds like I should stick with 2x4s and not rip off the rounded edges?

 

[gmcttr]

Select the best boards you can find, leave the rounded edges on them and sand well.

Since the "plan's" lumber dimensions may vary slightly from what you buy, confirm the cut list before you start and/or adjust as required.

 

[MRockwell]

Just another opinion here- if you are limited to Menards, I would use cedar over pine. And when you select your boards, look for the tightest end grain(more growth rings). Several years ago when working for a customer in West Lafayette, I was able to get some redwood trim boards from Henry Poor Lumber, not sure if they carry it any more. As said above, the smaller independent lumber yards are going to have a better quality than big box.

As for a finish, I prefer either Flood brand CWF-UV or Sikkens brand Cetol Marine. And don't forget to seal all end grain cuts, especially the ones that will be in contact with the ground.

 

[tsm]

If you aren't going with cedar as the plan suggests but are sticking with pine 2x4's, using 2x4's that are pressure-treated for ground contact on the four vertical legs will result in a longer lifespan for the chairs. The bottom of those legs are going to be continually in contact with the ground and are going to wick water up into the wood causing that area to be the first to rot. You can try to keep a finish on the bottoms, but that's likely to be your weakest area in terms of furniture longevity. If you're going to put them on some sort of wooden or concrete patio instead of directly on dirt, they'll last longer, but that'll still be the section most prone to deterioration.

 

[Butch627]

Pressure treated as purchased is the wettest wood there is. Your furniture could end up looking like a pretzel a year later unless you dry it out and keep it from warping before using it for furniture

 

[ATOMonkey]

First, you need to know your customer. If the only thing they want is something to hold your butt off the ground and last 5-10 years, then construction lumber is great.

If your customer wants a conversation piece that will be in your will, then consider using more expensive lumber, and keeping it out of the weather.

 

[chocktaw2]

I wouldn't sit in a treated lumber chair. Nasty chemicals involved. Cedar would be my choice, if I wasn't allergic to it.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

I wouldn't sit in a treated lumber chair. Nasty chemicals involved. Cedar would be my choice, if I wasn't allergic to it.

I don't think the pressure-treated lumber has the harmful chemicals like the old stuff did (arsenic I think).

 

[chocktaw2]

I don't think the pressure-treated lumber has the harmful chemicals like the old stuff did (arsenic I think).

I'll try doing some digging over the weekend for the evidence.

 

[chocktaw2]

And Redwood is another nice choice. Pretty, and Pricey, in the same bundle.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

And Redwood is another nice choice. Pretty, and Pricey, in the same bundle.

I agree that cypress, cedar or redwood would be my first choices.

 

[chocktaw2]

I agree that cypress, cedar or redwood would be my first choices.

Never had an allergy until I started working this . Have baled hay, straw, and Sudan grass. Cut grass, weeds. And never had an issue until cedar or redwood.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Never had an allergy until I started working this . Have baled hay, straw, and Sudan grass. Cut grass, weeds. And never had an issue until cedar or redwood.

I've gotta say that I've never heard of anyone being allergic to either. That would be tough, having to work with it!

 

[chocktaw2]

I've gotta say that I've never heard of anyone being allergic to either. That would be tough, having to work with it!

We store it on site for a fellow woodworker. Just bringing it indoors set me off in like 20 min. We store it outside.

 

[gmcttr]

When you get ready to build a "keeper" set of chairs, use teak.