Yeager discusses "co-witnessing"

[esrice]

I wish he went into more detail, but its a nice primer.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziavHvTlfKo[/ame]

 

[Double T]

The more I listen to him, the more his stuff makes sense. He is arrogant, but it's in a good way...even if he suffers from poor execution.

His 1911's suck video makes perfect sense once I watched the whole thing. I own two, but if I broke an extractor I would be SOL unless I had a spare and a file. Glocks are drop in (for OEM) and you can carry extra parts galore.

 

[db1959]

Didnt realize that and it made it sense. Learned something new today.

 

[Hop]

That sounds fine if the front is also a flip up. I just feel better about an A2 style pinned gas block front sight on a SHTF gun & like a 1/3 bottom co-witness on that type of gun better.

 

[esrice]

That sounds fine if the front is also a flip up. I just feel better about an A2 style pinned gas block front sight on a SHTF gun & like a 1/3 bottom co-witness on that type of gun better.

Same principles still apply-- flip up or otherwise.

Lower 1/3 or "absolute" just refers to the position of the cowitnessing in the window, relative to the window itself.

 

[Hop]

I meant since I prefer to run a fixed front sight I like it lower 1/3 co-witnessed. You can't do his little re-zero trick with a 1/3.

 

[Kagnew]

The only Yeager I've ever had much truck with was Chuck.

 

[rvb]

I meant since I prefer to run a fixed front sight I like it lower 1/3 co-witnessed. You can't do his little re-zero trick with a 1/3.

why not? you getting that much paralax in your dot?

-rvb

 

[SmileDocHill]

why not? you getting that much paralax in your dot?

-rvb

I'm guessing that he means... The red dot is hovering in space above the aligned sight picture of the irons when it is a 1/3 co-witness setup. If your rear sight needs to go back on the rifle then you have to do a little guess work to determine how far above the aligned iron sights to put the red dot.
If the sights and red dot are zeroed with the dot on the top of the post then you have eliminated a lot of subjectivity when re-installing a rear sight.

That was a lot harder to put into words than it was to picture.

 

[rvb]

I'm guessing that he means... The red dot is hovering in space above the aligned sight picture of the irons when it is a 1/3 co-witness setup. If your rear sight needs to go back on the rifle then you have to do a little guess work to determine how far above the aligned iron sights to put the red dot.
If the sights and red dot are zeroed with the dot on the top of the post then you have eliminated a lot of subjectivity when re-installing a rear sight.

That was a lot harder to put into words than it was to picture.

the point of a red dot optic is that it doesn't have to be dead centered in the tube to be zerod; you can move your head around and 1) still see the dot and 2) still be on target.

Unless there is a lot of paralax in your dot, when you lower your head to use the irons, the dot should still be zerod yet appear lower in the window. even w/ some paralax in a junk scope it should be aweful damn close.

so you CAN zero the dot on top of the irons, even in the lower 1/3 of the window, then when you lift your head out of the irons, you should still be zero'd.

-rvb

ps. no rule stating you have to have the same zero for both. At one time I ran a 200 yd zero on the dot and a 300 yd on the irons.

 

[jeremy]

Sooo....

My first question is how the hell do you get the rear sight back based off of a floating red dot and the front site post?!

And he lost any credibility when he said he really likes to A.R.M.S. components and then he says buy quality components...

 

[rvb]

Sooo....

My first question is how the hell do you get the rear sight back based off of a floating red dot and the front site post?!

And he lost any credibility when he said he really likes to A.R.M.S. components and then he says buy quality components...

If A=B and B=C then A = C.

If your dot is zerod at x distance, and your irons are zerod at the same distance, then the dot should align with your irons when looking through the irons.

So if you have to re-zero one or the other, you should be able to at least get close by aligning the dot and the irons.

-rvb

 

[jeremy]

If A=B and B=C then A = C.

If your dot is zerod at x distance, and your irons are zerod at the same distance, then the dot should align with your irons when looking through the irons.

So if you have to re-zero one or the other, you should be able to at least get close by aligning the dot and the irons.

-rvb

How do you ensure the dot is in the same place to establish the alignment?!

 

[esrice]

You can't do his little re-zero trick with a 1/3.

Sure you can. rvb cleared up the concept nicely.

 

[esrice]

How do you ensure the dot is in the same place to establish the alignment?!

You view it through your irons.

 

[jeremy]

You view it through your irons.

How do do that with a NEW rear site and ensure it is a zero...

 

[rvb]

How do you ensure the dot is in the same place to establish the alignment?!

How do do that with a NEW rear site and ensure it is a zero...

(assuming using the same zero for irons and dot using a lower 1/3 setup): If you look through the irons while the dot is on, the dot and the FS should be in alignment (aiming at the same place). If they are not, then either the irons or the scope need adjusted. once you lift your head out of the irons and center the dot in the scope, the dot will no longer appear aligned w/ the irons, but they will have the same zero (the dot will be "floating").

It's no different than using a dead-center co-whitness setup and raising your head so the dot is above the center of the scope.

So if you're dot is zero'd, and you buy a brand new set of front and rear sights, you can install the sights and use this method to zero the irons.

Recommend turning your dot down as low as possible to avoid "bloom" and to ensure a strong FS focus. Otherwise it's easy to subconsiously move your eye in the peep to bring things in alignment vs moving the hardware.

-rvb

 

[esrice]

How do do that with a NEW rear site and ensure it is a zero...

You look through the rear aperture and line it up with the front sight post. Is the dot sitting on top of the front sight post? If not, then you would move the rear aperture until it is.

 

[jeremy]

I'll stick with using my bore sight. It does not take up that much room in my kit...

 

[esrice]

I'll stick with using my bore sight. It does not take up that much room in my kit...

It's really just a "trick", or field-expedient way of zeroing if you replace one or the other.

I still prefer getting out and zeroing by shooting groups and adjusting accordingly. Its very zen-like.