You could also try letting the bolt go home, then slam the butt on the ground.
The extractor should pull it out.
To me if an AR won’t run steel case, it’s out of spec, steel case gets a bad rep, but I’ve run tens of thousands of rounds of the crap thru everything I’ve had.
I’ve seen a few ARs that wouldn’t run steel, turns out they had out of spec chambers
So, OP, has this issue resolved itself?
Nope, Tried a wooden dowel down the barrel and a dead blow hammer and just broke 2 woden dowels. Next step is finding a brass dowel and giving that a go.
How much dowel did you have sticking out of the muzzle? Drop it in, mark and trim so maybe 1/4" to sticks out, then a lot of tappy-taps, not hard hits.
FINALLY!
with a brass rod and a rubber dead-blow hammer I was having to hit the rod so hard that the end of the rod was sticking in my hammer.
Then em I decided to use a block of 2x4 on the end to give me more area to strike. Drove the rod straight through the block.
Finally I then put a pair of vice grips on the end of the rod to give me more surface area and that finally did the trick.
Have you found out the reason it stuck in the chanber? I mean without any doubt..
Good to see you got it out.
IMHO, both the plastic faced hammer and wood block, cushioned the blow to the brass rod. A brass or steel hammer (controlled so as not to strike the muzzle) would have been more effective.
looks like quite a bit of carbon on that casing to me, dirty chamber? If that is carbon it probably is a good bit of the issue you had.FINALLY!
When I put the solvent in to clean it there was a weird gummy substance scraping out of the chamber (not a lot, but enough to catch my eye) Seems like what some guys had mentioned about the laquer coated ammo getting hot and then acting almost as a glue. That’s my assumption at this point anyway. I guess it’ll be brass cases from here on out for that rifle.
I’ll get it back to the range and run strictly brass and see if it has any issues.
The day the case got stuck i had fired probably 200 rounds of brass cases with zero issues, half way through the first mag of this Tulammo it started getting finicky. Then this happened half way through the second mag of tulammo.
The cases that are colored grey are not lacquer coated, they are coated with a high temp polymer. The older lacquer coated cases are more of a greenish/brownish color instead of grey. Although it is still incorrect to state that the lacquer "melts". Please reference this.
All of those black splotches on the outside of the case is carbon. Looks to me like the chamber was dirty with carbon when you started shooting the steel cased stuff. Add to that the fact that your rifle has a tight chamber of the .223 Wylde type as you stated here, and you have a high propensity to have problems with steel cased ammo.
I have more info in the links below. There are a lot of rumors floating around that are incorrect and truths that a lot of people don't know.
https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-18-shooting-wolf-steel-cased-ammo-in-an-ar15/
https://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=268
When shooting steel cased, it is highly advisable that you clean your chamber before and after or things like this will happen. I have observed that the guns that tend to run steel cased ammo better are the guns with the looser 5.56 chambers.
When I put the solvent in to clean it there was a weird gummy substance scraping out of the chamber (not a lot, but enough to catch my eye) Seems like what some guys had mentioned about the laquer coated ammo getting hot and then acting almost as a glue. That’s my assumption at this point anyway. I guess it’ll be brass cases from here on out for that rifle.
I’ll get it back to the range and run strictly brass and see if it has any issues.
The day the case got stuck i had fired probably 200 rounds of brass cases with zero issues, half way through the first mag of this Tulammo it started getting finicky. Then this happened half way through the second mag of tulammo.
fantastic post, it’s easy to crap on steel case, but it is one of the widest used ammo types out there and is used by quite a few armies.The cases that are colored grey are not lacquer coated, they are coated with a high temp polymer. The older lacquer coated cases are more of a greenish/brownish color instead of grey. Although it is still incorrect to state that the lacquer "melts". Please reference this.
All of those black splotches on the outside of the case is carbon. Looks to me like the chamber was dirty with carbon when you started shooting the steel cased stuff. Add to that the fact that your rifle has a tight chamber of the .223 Wylde type as you stated here, and you have a high propensity to have problems with steel cased ammo.
I have more info in the links below. There are a lot of rumors floating around that are incorrect and truths that a lot of people don't know.
https://www.theboxotruth.com/educational-zone-18-shooting-wolf-steel-cased-ammo-in-an-ar15/
https://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=268
When shooting steel cased, it is highly advisable that you clean your chamber before and after or things like this will happen. I have observed that the guns that tend to run steel cased ammo better are the guns with the looser 5.56 chambers.
Steel cased rounds don't expand and seal the chamber as well. They allow more carbon build up in the chamber. If your AR has a tighter cbamber, this can cause problems and you might want to avoid steel cased ammo.
Once that is out, I highly recommend that you clean your chamber really well.
My AR's run steel cased ammo fine...but they are not long range 1/2 MOA shooters. Some AR's just won't run with it.