Got a problem...223 case stuck in chamber.

[IndianaSoloMcfly]

Hardwood dowel should do it.

Kroil (or maybe PB Blaster) 10 min before should help to loosen the junk gluing it in.

Hit the dowel only with synthetic or wood. NO metal hammers.

Curious, i havent ran into this problem yet. But for future reference why would it not be acceptable to hit the wooden rod with a metal hammer? If the only contact point is hammer to wooden dowel and then wooden dowel to steel casing?

 

[BiscuitsandGravy]

Brass rod. McMaster Carr is a source for these.

 

[croy]

All my ARs will run steel. If it won't its not worth having. I do normally only buy brass but occasionaly Ill throw in some steel cased.

 

[croy]

PSA 18" Rifle Length .223 Wylde 1:7 SS 15" Lightweight M-lok Upper With Nickel Boron BCG & CH

this is the EXACT upper, for reference. No. It isn’t chrome lined. Junk? Wouldn’t go that far. I’ve had good luck with palmetto state up until running this one for the first time.

Everything works until it fails. If you haven't had it fail you haven't ran it hard enough. When I worked in gun stores a few years ago I saw a lot of crap stuff coming out of palmetto which is why I don't buy there stuff. I hear the premium line is good though.

 

[avboiler11]

I've never had any issues with Wolf poly coated steel case, or Hornady Steel Match in 223...always run just fine, if a bit underpowered. And 75gr Steel Match was sub-MOA for me.

I did have a fired brass LC case get stuck in a Savage bolt action 223AI that had to be driven out via the steel rod method.

 

[Hookeye]

I tried some steel once, Hornady stuff.
Ran fine, shot decent.
But it was just a junk rifle.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

Wooden dowel or brass rod (note you can buy brass rods on Amazon really cheap compared to those sold specifically as clearing rods, just buy a bulk rod and cut it to the length you need) and a dead blow hammer.

 

[churchmouse]

All my ARs will run steel. If it won't its not worth having. I do normally only buy brass but occasionaly Ill throw in some steel cased.

Mine "Will" run them I just choose not to.

 

[sig1473]

Sounds like you need to ream your chamber.

 

[red_zr24x4]

Curious, i havent ran into this problem yet. But for future reference why would it not be acceptable to hit the wooden rod with a metal hammer? If the only contact point is hammer to wooden dowel and then wooden dowel to steel casing?

Hitting the crown / front sight with a steel hammer can do bad things

 

[jfed85]

Didn’t get a chance to mess with it today. Currently remodeling my house and spent all day working. Hopefully tomorrow. Once again, appreciate all the advice.

 

[bwframe]

Curious, i havent ran into this problem yet. But for future reference why would it not be acceptable to hit the wooden rod with a metal hammer? If the only contact point is hammer to wooden dowel and then wooden dowel to steel casing?

Just the obvious. Crown damage that you may be able to see or not.

Some would just swing the claw or ball peen and not think until the case came out and hammer hit the muzzle.

 

[jfed85]

Didn't have any luck with the wooden dowel. Gonna have to get a brass rod and give it another go.

 

[Floivanus]

To me if an AR won’t run steel case, it’s out of spec, steel case gets a bad rep, but I’ve run tens of thousands of rounds of the crap thru everything I’ve had.

I’ve seen a few ARs that wouldn’t run steel, turns out they had out of spec chambers

 

[loony1]

I use steel case in all my AR's except for my two with SS barrels. I have done the math many times and have come to the same conclusion. A barrel is a part that typically needs replaced around 10k for brass and 7-8k for steel. I can usually pay for 3-4 replacement barrels with what I save in shooting steel.

 

[bwframe]

Is steel cased ammo as accurate as brass?

 

[Floivanus]

Is steel cased ammo as accurate as brass?

Accuracy generally comes from consistency, steel case 7.62x39 IS made by countries for military use, in general, much of it is accurate (vypmel is considered the best (golden tiger)) 223 generally is made for export and isn’t always consistent but seems to be good for plinking ammo (1.5-2MOA for me) but a little under powered, unless you’re shooting match grade it isn’t that big of a dofference in my experience. My 8 year old routinely hits the dead center of paper plate targets at 50 yards shooting garbage level tula ammo with an AR15

 

[Notalentbum]

FWIW, I went through this on a .308 bolt gun with brass cased ammo a couple years ago. Mine was an unfired round that wouldn’t go into battery.
It required complete disassembly, some home made tools and lots of cussing. I was finally successful in removing the round with no damage. I ended up using the cup thing that holds the rim of the case when reloading to pry out the case. This wouldn’t work in your case because the shell is so deep in the barrel.

Good luck!
Matt

 

[Tanfodude]

Steel case is fine. Been using wolf and tula for years, it's cheap and it goes bang. But my AR is chambered 5.56 and carbine gas system.

 

[Tanfodude]

Is steel cased ammo as accurate as brass?

In my experience, groupings isn't as tight as pmc brass 223. But I'm using a 55gr on a 1/7 twist rate at 50-100yrds.