308 reloading help...stumped

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  • BGDave

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    Please explain.., :popcorn:

    Not wanting to cause a debate about One Shot, but I seem to recall an older thread that became some-what heated.

    In any event, One Shot requires that it be allowed to dry completely before sizing. Some have had mixed results.

    That said, I've had pretty good luck with Dillon spray lube with 223 Rem.
     

    billybob44

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    Hornady One Shot...

    This may not make sense at first.

    Are you using Hornady One Shot case lube or another brand of aerosol spray lube?

    Need to know IF lube is being used, if so what type/kind??

    Please explain.., :popcorn:

    Some calibers/die sets like different lubes...

    Not wanting to cause a debate about One Shot, but I seem to recall an older thread that became some-what heated.

    In any event, One Shot requires that it be allowed to dry completely before sizing. Some have had mixed results.

    That said, I've had pretty good luck with Dillon spray lube with 223 Rem.

    Same here, Dave..

    FWIW: I have always had good luck with Hornady One Shot-In .223/5.56, and all handgun loads---NOT so much with larger diameter cases=22-250 Rem., 6MM Rem., .270 Winchester, and .308 Winchester. More than a few "Stuck" cases in size die.

    Hell, I pulled the rims off of THREE .270 Win. using (First) One Shot, (Second) Dillon case lube, (Third) Imperial Size Wax.=Damn, I HATE using my stuck case remover!! HA. HA. HA....

    For the .270 Win., I ended up using the old RCBS (STP Type of goo) on a case lube pad, to finish that run of .270 brass.

    Bottom line is that different calibers/dies sometimes need different lubes-NOT one size fits all.

    For ME, Hornady One Shot, 40-50 cases in a $1.00 School pencil box, spray, shake-shake-shake, let dry 10 min. or so, and size. Other cases NOT SO MUCH, with One Shot...Bill.

    PS: Just noticed-Damn, that's a GOOD #2,500 Post...HA HA HA....
     

    Broom_jm

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    For all the good intentions out there, this particular issue has nothing whatsoever to do with the lube used.

    I have not used any of the spray lubes because I don't load rifle rounds in high volume, but have also never had a stuck case. I've never before heard of someone sticking a case with ISD wax...that's a new one on me.

    The OP needs to adjust his sizing die properly or maybe has a problem with the die itself.
     

    UncleNorby

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    I had a similar issue with my 358 Hoosier (358 Win parent case). The shellholder I was using would not allow the case to travel far enough into the die. The press was definitely camming over. Switched to another shellholder which was slighlty different in dimension and problem solved. My guess is the die needs to be screwed down a bit more. OP is at 1/4 turn past initial contact now. Another 1/8 or even 1/4 turn may do the trick. If not, shave top of the shellholer or try another brand. If that fails, then the die is suspect.
     

    baba

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    Thanks for keeping this going guys. We will get to the bottom of it.

    I am using Dillon case lube. Though maybe not enough. I got a case stuck in there last night messing with things. Stuck good. So I started to drill out the case in prep to tap it so I could 'jack' the case out with a stuck case remover. And the drillbit broke in the brass. I was able to pound that through and tap it. Then I started jacking, and the bolt broke off in there. I think this may be the universe telling me to get a different die.

    Sigh...in the mean time, I'm going to check on the mount and make sure it is tight and not flexing.

    -Brian
     

    17 squirrel

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    For all the good intentions out there, this particular issue has nothing whatsoever to do with the lube used.

    I have not used any of the spray lubes because I don't load rifle rounds in high volume, but have also never had a stuck case. I've never before heard of someone sticking a case with ISD wax...that's a new one on me.

    The OP needs to adjust his sizing die properly or maybe has a problem with the die itself.

    I am with you broom***,

    That's bullpoop about using different lubes for different calibers.. I don't know anyone who keeps different lube around just for one caliber. All I ever use for sizing cases for better than 30 years is Dillons spray lube.
    And for forming cases I use nothing but Imperial sizing wax.
    I have been loading better than 40+ years and I have never had a stuck case, I swear I dont know how some guys constantly keep getting stuck cases. I have had cases squeak on the upstroke but never stuck.
    How hard is to shake shake shake. Spray two or three times shake the box of cases a few times spray two more times and LET THEM DRY..
    And with imperial rub a finger in it and spin the case between two fingers spreading it on the case..
     

    17 squirrel

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    Thanks for keeping this going guys. We will get to the bottom of it.

    I am using Dillon case lube. Though maybe not enough. I got a case stuck in there last night messing with things. Stuck good. So I started to drill out the case in prep to tap it so I could 'jack' the case out with a stuck case remover. And the drillbit broke in the brass. I was able to pound that through and tap it. Then I started jacking, and the bolt broke off in there. I think this may be the universe telling me to get a different die.

    Sigh...in the mean time, I'm going to check on the mount and make sure it is tight and not flexing.

    -Brian

    Do you shake the bottle of lube and mix it up before you use it ?
    I shake and mix it up and spray once or twice off to the side before I spray my cases. That way I know that its just not alcohol in the spray tube.
    Then spray the cases 2 to 3 times... Then shake and mix brass up... Spray maybe 2 times and LET it dry.... Key point again LET IT DRY... And I then load away.
     

    baba

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    I shake it up and let them dry. This is the first stuck case ive ever had. I think what screwed me was i ran the case through the die several times as I was messing with the die. It still felt pretty slick, but not enough I guess....

    Uncommon to run a piece that many times...should have known.
     

    Cerberus

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    I am with you broom***,

    That's bullpoop about using different lubes for different calibers.. I don't know anyone who keeps different lube around just for one caliber. All I ever use for sizing cases for better than 30 years is Dillons spray lube.
    And for forming cases I use nothing but Imperial sizing wax.
    I have been loading better than 40+ years and I have never had a stuck case, I swear I dont know how some guys constantly keep getting stuck cases. I have had cases squeak on the upstroke but never stuck.
    How hard is to shake shake shake. Spray two or three times shake the box of cases a few times spray two more times and LET THEM DRY..
    And with imperial rub a finger in it and spin the case between two fingers spreading it on the case..

    I'm with Billybob on this. I keep just about every brand of lube known. None of my .308 sizers liked one shot, except the Hornady set I got rid of. Dillon lube does work well for most, but my .44-40 set likes the Lee kind.
     

    Leo

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    baba, Bummer on sticking that case. Yes, the lube is really only good for once, MAYBE twice.

    Have you figured a way to bump that case shoulder back a little? I a curious, did you get a chance to measure the shoulder datum between your relsized brass and factory new brass? It is amazing what a difference a few thousandths makes.
     

    baba

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    Leo, the last post on page 3 has the dims. basically i need to get .001-.003 shorter. the mil brass is way longer than that, about .009. Before I got the die plugged up for good, I was never able to get it to change the neck size. I still have no explanation for why the mil brass was so much longer after coming out of the same die.

    -Brian
     

    SSGSAD

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    Leo, the last post on page 3 has the dims. basically i need to get .001-.003 shorter. the mil brass is way longer than that, about .009. Before I got the die plugged up for good, I was never able to get it to change the neck size. I still have no explanation for why the mil brass was so much longer after coming out of the same die.

    -Brian

    The only thing I can think of, is Mil., brass is thicker, so re sizing can make it longer, so may need to trim, and then resize it again ...

    I have never had to do this, in 30 + years of reloading .... and using Mil., brass .....
     

    baba

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    Its longer at the shoulder, but the same oal. Like the die is so long that it isnt even touching the out of spec shoulder. I may never know now With that case seemingly permanently stuck.
     

    Leo

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    I wonder if there is anyone in NW Indiana that reloads .308 that can try sizing a few of your pieces of brass on their known good dies?

    I had problem with a 22-250 die once that was out of spec.
     

    Broom_jm

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    Baba,

    Since you have a stuck case and no obvious way of removing it, now's the time to send the die back to the manufacturer. They will remove the stuck case and check the dimensions to determine if there is a problem with the die. You might as well, since you're kinda stuck anyway?
     

    baba

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    Saga update. I got an RCBS sizer today. Just had a few minutes to set it up. Did just what the instructions say: raise ram, screw die in unil contact, lower ram, turn die additional 1/4 turn, lock down. The shoulders on 3 caes i tried were all set back to .030 (relative measurement using the 38spl case measuring method). On these very cases, the shoulder did not move at all in the previous die. All chambered easily. I need to test/remake a few more tomorrow and will report back.

    Initial look appears that the die change solved the problem. We will see if that holds.

    I may send the jammed up die back to Hornaday. if nothing else they will get a kick out of it. The case, decapping rod, half a drill bit, and the end of a bolt are all stuck in there!

    -Brian
     
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    Broom_jm

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    Saga update. I got an RCBS sizer today. Just had a few minutes to set it up. Did just what the instructions say: raise ram, screw die in unil contact, lower ram, turn die additional 1/4 turn, lock down. The shoulders on 3 caes i tried were all set back to .030 (relative measurement using the 38spl case measuring method). On these very cases, the shoulder did not move at all. All chambered easily. I need to test/remake a few more tomorrow and will report back.

    Initial look appears that the die change solved the problem. We will see if that holds.

    I may send the jammed up die back to Hornaday. if nothing else they will get a kick out of it. The case, decapping rod, half a drill bit, and the end of a bolt are all stuck in there!

    -Brian

    Good deal, Brian! :)

    The next step is to determine just how much of that resizing (with the RCBS die) was indicated. Without a Stony Point (LNL) tool to determine that, you could gradually back out the resizing die until you find where a sized case doesn't quite allow you to close the bolt on your gun, then screw it back in a little. This will result in the least working of the brass, extending the life. That's how I load for any bottle-necked round where I don't have a neck sizing die.
     
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