building a 10/22

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  • Tactically Fat

    Grandmaster
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    FYI, the Ruger 10/22 owner's manual states that you may indeed dry-fire the weapon. Makes no mention of NEEDING a "snap cap" or dummy round in the chamber.
     

    66chevelle

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    This gun will pretty much be a bench gun but my plink with it once in a while. I have shot this gun a bunch and it shoots good but its not a competitive as I would like it to be. I was thinking a 6oz 2 stage trigger but I am starting to think that may be a little light. As far as budget this will be a build in steps. My plans are to shoot eley but that also depends on the gun. Thank you all for the help so far and please keep the information coming.
     

    Bill of Rights

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    Where's the bacon?
    Thanks for making that point!! It was late, I was on my phone, but ultimately, I forgot to type it. Ruger doesn't say it's necessary, but I won't dry fire my 10/22s without an action proving cartridge in place... never seen an actual rimfire snap cap. Don't even know if they're made.I also forgot I'd also done the auto bolt release mod to both of mine.

    Blessings,
    Bill

    Unless you plan on repeatedly using a chamber iron I would not practice dry firing a 10/22 w/o some kind of snap cap in place.

    I've owned and built at least a dozen 10/22s and if you want the best, buy Kidd. Get the rear tang on the rcvr. I prefer the 2 stage trigger myself. Not as flashy as some Volquartsen stuff but consistent as can be. The man values his reputation and his product says so loudly and clearly.
    You can get good results with others but if you don't want to mess around, buy the Kidd.
     

    seedubs1

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    Depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go and how much you want to spend. From my understanding, you'll get the most bang for your buck in accuracy from:

    1) Trigger. Lots of options from having a stock one worked over, installing a kit (kidd makes a great one), to buying a drop in aftermarket trigger (kidd also makes a great one)
    2) Get your bolt worked. Specifically, pin the firing pin so that you get more accurate ignition. This has been studied on RFC, and is one of the main levers you can pull to tighten up groups
    3) Barrel chamber and crown. Lots of studies, again, on RFC. Even sending your barrel out to CPC for them to work it over has yielded barrels comparable to high end aftermarket barrels

    You can spend as much or as little as you want. If you just want the most bang for your buck and don't want to spend tons, CPC will make the gun shoot better than you're able. If you want the best of the best and money is no object, kidd is the way to go. And of course, there's a million of options in between.
     

    Tactically Fat

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    Your funeral. Do it how you want.

    So you're telling me that the manufacturer themselves are willing to state in an owner's manual something that's inherently dangerous and/or unsafe?

    Interesting.

    Not all rim-fires are created equal. Some should definitely not be dry-fired. Others, however, can be dry-fired without fear of harm.

    A snapcap / dummy round is never a bad idea. It's just not 100% necessary 100% of the time with some firearms. The Ruger 10/22 being a prime example.

    You can argue all you want about it. I'm just regurgitating what the owner's manual says. Take it up with Ruger if you want.
     

    halfmileharry

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    So you're telling me that the manufacturer themselves are willing to state in an owner's manual something that's inherently dangerous and/or unsafe?

    Interesting.

    Not all rim-fires are created equal. Some should definitely not be dry-fired. Others, however, can be dry-fired without fear of harm.

    A snapcap / dummy round is never a bad idea. It's just not 100% necessary 100% of the time with some firearms. The Ruger 10/22 being a prime example.

    You can argue all you want about it. I'm just regurgitating what the owner's manual says. Take it up with Ruger if you want.
    Ever had the bolt apart on the 10/22? I wouldn't trust that firing pin for long. I have a pair of back-ups for mine.
     

    Nicu757

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    I built a full Kidd, barrel, bolt, trigger and it is one a tac driver with a cheap Bushnell red dot. Its worth the money and Kidds barrels are a work of art. I love the scalloped bolt too really cool and the bolt release. You might as well buy the quite buffer to if you shoot suppressed nice cheap little touch.
     

    Nicu757

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    Now I did take a 300 buck firearm and turn it I think into more then over a grand gun but you get what you pay for. Of course I upgraded the stock as well. With my Sparrow on the front its so much fun to shoot.
     

    shootersix

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    Thanks for making that point!! It was late, I was on my phone, but ultimately, I forgot to type it. Ruger doesn't say it's necessary, but I won't dry fire my 10/22s without an action proving cartridge in place... never seen an actual rimfire snap cap. Don't even know if they're made.I also forgot I'd also done the auto bolt release mod to both of mine.

    Blessings,
    Bill

    A-Zoom Snap Caps, no other snap caps are more precise or rugged

    Snap Caps - Battenfeld

    both company make rim fire snap caps
     

    shootersix

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    This has been posted before but here it is again. #4 yellow wall anchors work great as a .22 snap cap and are like $4 for 100.
    I have never used a snap cap in a 10/22 and never had a chamber strike.

    bill said he'd never seen a 22 snap cap, and that he didn't know if anybody made them, all I was doing was providing links to 22 snap caps
     

    DRob

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    I can't believe this thread made it this far without several mentions of rimfire central. There is no better source for info on the 10/22. There are a slew of 10/22 barrel suppliers now but Green Mtn used to be considered the best bang for the buck. I have used GM barrels on a dozen 10/22s including a couple of magnums. The best I have is a Clark Custom on a 10/22M converted to .17 HMR which shoots like a laser and runs like a top. (Yes, I know they blow up and destroy the whole neighborhood).

    IMO, the #1 improvement will be trigger work, whoever does it. An 8 lb trigger in a 4 lb gun is not conducive to great accuracy. All of mine have VQ hammers, aftermarket barrels, modified bolt releases, and bolt buffers. There are many more options including having the factory barrel "accurized" and the bolt properly head-spaced. YMMV.

    I have dry-fired 10/22s hundreds of time with ZERO damage. No peening of the firing pin or marking of the chamber. Those who claim you'll wreck it are just repeating standard advice for most rimfires which does not apply to the 10/22. Often this info comes from guys who don't own one but heard it on the 'net.
     

    Bill of Rights

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    Thanks for the info! Both of those appear to be (and the A-Zoom are labeled as) "Action proving rounds". What I'm looking for is something that will "cushion" the firing pin when I dry fire, rather than have to replace the bloody things every so often for FP strikes on the soft aluminum rim. The wall anchor may be just what I need. Have to pick up a few of those.

    Blessings,
    Bill


    This has been posted before but here it is again. #4 yellow wall anchors work great as a .22 snap cap and are like $4 for 100.
    I have never used a snap cap in a 10/22 and never had a chamber strike.
     

    AR 1022

    Plinker
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    I wrote something here but some reason it was deleted... OH well...

    I have edited this post.
    If you wish to sell your wares in the Forum there is a fee.

    PM Roadie if you are interested.

    -CM-
     
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