century arms cetme clonez

[thompal]

I got a deal on mine from a friend that had to thin the herd, so I gave it a try. I like it. I havn't had any real issues, charging handle sticks a little but its getting better. Overall I'm happy with mine.

Is it really sticking, or is it just hard to charge? Remember that you are unlocking the action in the first part of the motion and then pulling against the recoil spring.

If it is sticking, lightly coat the inside of the charging handle tube with white lithium grease. I've heard it helps substantially, although I've never tried it.

 

[DaKruiser]

Is it really sticking, or is it just hard to charge? Remember that you are unlocking the action in the first part of the motion and then pulling against the recoil spring.

If it is sticking, lightly coat the inside of the charging handle tube with white lithium grease. I've heard it helps substantially, although I've never tried it.

I would call it sticking, but might just be hard. I'm a big boy so i dont think it is normal. I will try some wlg, thanks for the sugestion.

 

[gunman41mag]

My CETME like the STEEL MAGS & I had to use a file on the mag well so the mag would fit in

 

[DMarines007]

I heard these are very similar to the HK91 with the blowback ejection system. If that is the case...sign me up!

 

[gunman41mag]

Are these french made?

THE CETME where invented in SPAIN & the GERMANS copied it

 

[thompal]

I heard these are very similar to the HK91 with the blowback ejection system. If that is the case...sign me up!

Yep - the H&K system is a copy of that used in the CETME.

 

[g3man]

Invented in Spain, Perfected by Germany. I have a PTR and love it. Its worth the extra money.

 

[ncthorn]

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...irst_impressions_brief_review.html#post463047

Above is a link to my review of one of the newer CETMEs that I purchased from Henderson Defense. The quality is much better than previous models. That being said, I would rather have a nice used PTR for a few more bucks. The CETMEs, like it or not, are hit and miss. I still have yet to shoot it because there isn't any bolt gap left to speak of.

I have heard that the quality has further improved so that may be something to consider.

 

[451_Detonics]

I got my CETME in a trade...wasn't really looking for one. It was a CIA and I did have a few issues, most notably the bolt gap. I bought a new complete bolt and it now gaps at .013 and functions perfectly. I also have skipped on buying the low priced HK mags and use CETME mags exclusively, they are more expensive but J&G has them for $8.95 for steel...still a great buy for a .308 20 round mag.

If you are looking to buy one I would advise measuring the gap before you buy. Also check and see what rollers are in it. You want it to be between .010 and .015 with neutral rollers. Anything else and I would pass on that particular rifle. If the bolt sticks pass as well...means the gap is causing binding. Look for excessive wear on the changing handle housing.

Mine now wears HK green furniture and is a keeper...I had originally planned on selling it when I traded for it. Several here have shot it at the NWI shoots and all enjoyed the way it shot. It is my optics equipped .308 MBR while my FAL fills the iron sight role.

 

[teddy12b]

These cetme's are on my watch list. For the price they're a lot of fast firepower if they work right. Whether it's right or wrong I'm usually one to take a gamble and buy the gun.

 

[451_Detonics]

I would be happy to help anyone who lives in the area, I am a school trained HK armorer on the G-3 and while there are significant differences between the semi auti CETME and the G-3 I can do pretty good with them as far as helping with the bolt issues.

 

[451_Detonics]

For those who don't understand the whole bolt gap issue this should help. The system is made of two main parts, the bolt and the bolt carrier, these make up the bolt carrier group.

The gap that is the main concern in this is located between the bolt and the bolt carrier when the action is closed and locked in battery.

This is the place you insert a feeler gauge. It should allow a gauge between .010 and .015 to slip in snugly.

These are the rollers that are talked about and they are marked for sizes both positive and negative from the neutral or zero roller. The can be used to increase or decrease the gap but only by a few thousandths. If your gap measures .010 with neutral rollers then +4 rollers can be used to bring it close to the optimal .013, but they can't cure a .006 gap.

Hope this helps...

 

[thompal]

The gap that is the main concern in this is located between the bolt and the bolt carrier when the action is closed and locked in battery.

Is this measured while it is still cocked, or do you drop the hammer before measuring?

 

[45-70]

Bolt gap measuring procedure

Wear on the bolt head at the roller "windows", locking piece and trunnion also contribute to bolt gap issues along with barrel depth in the trunnion and roller size. Also, in cases where the rifle is hard to cock, the charging handle may be bottomed out in the cocking tube creating a false bolt gap, not good. The gap between the charging handle and its stop should be more than the bolt gap.