Converting House over to LED Bulbs

[GregD]

ICD = incandescent

You don't hear many good things about incandescent.

 

[Tactically Fat]

The future is bright?

A nanophotonic comeback for incandescent bulbs? | MIT News

 

[JettaKnight]

ICD = incandescent

Just curious, but where does that exist as jargon? I deal with a few different lighting circles and I don't recall seeing that. Maybe I've seen icd or incand., but ICD seems odd because it's not an initialism like LED or CFL.

In most of my dealings, ICD is Interface Control Document.

 

[Tactically Fat]

not sure where I first came across it... Maybe I just made it up out of whole-cloth.

But I did find it being used here. Light Bulb Test With Cfl, Led, And ICD Light Bulbs - ProProfs Quiz

Which totally isn't a real source.

Maybe I'm a rend-setter. Which isn't nearly as cool as being a trend-setter.

 

[JettaKnight]

not sure where I first came across it... Maybe I just made it up out of whole-cloth.

But I did find it being used here. Light Bulb Test With Cfl, Led, And ICD Light Bulbs - ProProfs Quiz

Which totally isn't a real source.

Maybe I'm a rend-setter. Which isn't nearly as cool as being a trend-setter.

How ironic, they capitalized the abbreviation, but left the initialisms in lower case. Maybe the author, "Jmssmartin2017" needs to go back to school. (or still is in school?)



ETA:
I typically just say "tungsten".

 

[Tactically Fat]

I much prefer wolfram.

But I'm old.

 

[rw02kr43]

I put one in our living room lamp. It gave a weird bluish light. After about a half hour I replaced it back to the regular bulb cause the color of the light was actually making me sad. I've never felt anything like it.

Jason

 

[Cameramonkey]

Google was clueless about the jargon as well.

 

[terrehautian]

For anyone buying LEd bulbs, check the packaging. There will either be a degree Kelvin or picture of the light it puts out. The higher the number, the more white (blue) it will be. The lower the number, the more yellow it will be. 3,000 to 3,300° will get it a look of more normal incandescent bulbs. While a number of 7,000° kelvin will get you a a bluish tent light. If you are going to put them on a dimmer switch, make sure you get dimming and not non dimming. All but two of our bulbs look "yellow" like the old style bulbs.

 

[GodFearinGunTotin]

I just bought a place in Duke territory with ground-loop geo heating (heats the DHW too), insulated VERY well. My total electric bill mid-Dec through mid-Jan was $49. Lighting would likely almost double that amount with the number of lights we have.

That being said, even if it would barely make the needle twitch it would still yield cost-savings, and cost-savings aare cost-savings...

The last time I checked, my total-average cost per KWH was something like $0.13 or $0.14. We've got a geo-thermal unit for the main level and a high eff. Unit for the upstairs. House is...meh, ok insulated and I cannot imagine a $49 electric bill, even if we ate out every night and did laundry on a rock, by the creek. That's great you're getting it.

 

[JettaKnight]

For anyone buying LEd bulbs, check the packaging. There will either be a degree Kelvin or picture of the light it puts out. The higher the number, the more white (blue) it will be. The lower the number, the more yellow it will be. 3,000 to 3,300° will get it a look of more normal incandescent bulbs. While a number of 7,000° kelvin will get you a a bluish tent light. If you are going to put them on a dimmer switch, make sure you get dimming and not non dimming. All but two of our bulbs look "yellow" like the old style bulbs.

Yup.

You can get commercial fixtures that have adjustable color temperature. The primary application is simulating natural light - we're starting to see it show up in requests from hospitals for NICU wards. And some LED lamps will adjust their color temperature as they dim to simulate a tungsten lamp - warm at low levels, cool at high output.

 

[CountryBoy19]

How ironic, they capitalized the abbreviation, but left the initialisms in lower case. Maybe the author, "Jmssmartin2017" needs to go back to school. (or still is in school?)



ETA:
I typically just say "tungsten".

This begs the question, did you just make up the term "initialism"? I've never heard it before, typically it's called an acronym isn't it?

The last time I checked, my total-average cost per KWH was something like $0.13 or $0.14. We've got a geo-thermal unit for the main level and a high eff. Unit for the upstairs. House is...meh, ok insulated and I cannot imagine a $49 electric bill, even if we ate out every night and did laundry on a rock, by the creek. That's great you're getting it.

I was pleasantly surprised. The bill was actually 2 months combined (the first month the house was unoccupied) and I thought, "Heh, $74 isn't bad for a month" then I realize it was 2 months and the first occupied month was only $49 and I was super happy.

 

[JettaKnight]

This raises the question, did you just make up the term "initialism"? I've never heard it before, typically it's called an acronym isn't it?

RADAR is an acronym.
CPU is an initialism.

An acronym needs to be spoken as a complete word(s).

I should have been an English major.




No wait, I like money.

 

[CountryBoy19]

RADAR is an acronym.
CPU is an initialism.

An acronym needs to be spoken as a complete word(s).

I should have been an English major.




No wait, I like money.

Ah... learn something new everyday. That being said, I still had to google it to know the difference, your explanation further confused me.

Google says an acronym CAN be pronounced as a word, and an initialism CAN ONLY be pronounced by saying each successive letter.

 

[dprimm]

Groupon (for all its good and bad) has been running specials on boxes of LEDs. I bought a 12 pack of 60W equivalent to try around the house for $20. Turns out they are brighter than our incandescent 60W bulbs they replaced. Even if they only last a year, we should be ahead. The floodlights we replaced with LEDs we were careful of the color and they matched the non-replaced floodlights exactly (we are experimenting and slowly changing over).

 

[CountryBoy19]

Another note to make when considering color temperature is the Color Rendering Index (CRI). Very low CRI's will make things appear "off-color", mid-CRI will look mostly normal but may require more lumens to see things clearly. High-CRI renders things more clearly.

Cool white lights (closest to daylight) naturally have a higher CRI and therefore you need fewer lumens to still be able to see clearly. Or, spoken another way, the same number of lumens will make things appear more clearly. I am in the process of transitioning to cool-white and going away from warm-white because of this. I've already noticed a clear difference.

 

[1861navy]

This is something I thought of but will do when my CFLs burn out. If they burn out. I've got many that are years old and still work great, plus the light is bright with a 23 w. Cfl at around 5500 k to 6500 k.
If I find LEDs that compare I'll gladly make a switch away from the mercury lamps.

Right now I have one philips brand led bulb given to me from REMC and its alright so far. Not my preferred wattage or color temperature but seems good nonetheless.

That said I don't know how so many people have issues with length of use and durability with CFLs. I've only had a couple burn out on me after approx. 3-4 years. One exception was a lamp with a faulty socket that popped 'em like crazy but after i replaced it the issue faded.