Corrosive Ammo Question

[jmiller676]

I've got my grande skinny caramel macchiato from Starbucks sitting next to me as I type!

In other words you paid WAY to much for coffee...got it!

 

[Slapstick]

Guys:

Windex is ONLY useful for the water that's in it. In THIS example, anyhow. WATER is what you want to dissolve and flush the salts out.

Any amount of any other fluid will work to flush...that's true. But water will DISSOLVE the stuck-on salts very very very very well.

Also, chemically speaking, Hoppe's #9 solvent doesn't do anything to "neutralize" the corrosive-salt forming process. You can physically remove the salts by swabbing with it (and utilize it's cleaning properties at the same time), but if all you're after is making sure no corrosion happens, you're much much much much better of using plain ol' water. Warm water helps dissolve it even better.

Hoppe's #9 is mostly Kerosene and Ethyl Alcohol. Potassium Chloride (KCl...the main corrosive salt formed from igniting a primer containing Potassium Chlorate) has very low solubility in organic solvents.

Use a nice ubiquitous inorganic polar solvent and you'll be fine.

Water people....WATER. Don't spend the money to use Windex. Windex = 90% water. Don't use Hoppe's thinking it doing the job you think it's doing. It's not. Don't use amonia, it only BARELY dissolves KCl.

WATER WATER WATER WATER WATER WATER.

-J-

Really, because it plainly states on the Hoppes' #9 bottle that it neutralizes corrosive primer residue and fouling. (on the pint bottle for sure) and Ballistal also states that it is slightly alkaline to neutralize corrosive residue. Good thing you cleared that up since the manufactures plainly don't know their products.

 

[db1959]

If some ammo is corrosive why doesnt it eat through the steel casings? (only half serious)

 

[jmiller676]

If some ammo is corrosive why doesnt it eat through the steel casings? (only half serious)

Moisture.

 

[Indy_Guy_77]

In other words you paid WAY to much for coffee...got it!

Gift card from Christmas!

Really, because it plainly states on the Hoppes' #9 bottle that it neutralizes corrosive primer residue and fouling. (on the pint bottle for sure) and Ballistal also states that it is slightly alkaline to neutralize corrosive residue. Good thing you cleared that up since the manufactures plainly don't know their products.

Right. Chemistry doesn't lie. Look up the MSDS on Hoppe's #9. Then look up the solubility of KCl in the ingredients.

Now, #9 Plus that's recommended for black powder... That probably will.

I don't know how old that pint jar of #9 is, but I'd almost bet that it's "old". I've read a lot of anecdotal evidence (And yes, I fully realize that the plural of anecdote does not equal data) that the newer containers don't say this.

Also, chemically speaking, salts cannot be "neutralized". Once a salt is formed, it stays formed until you dissolve it with a solvent.

Anecdotal:

Yes Or No For Hoppes' #9 For Corrosive Ammo [Archive] - Calguns.net

Hoppes #9 good enough for corrosive priming?

Hoppe's #9 and corrosive ammo

Please go study the chemistry for yourself. Please go look up solubility tables for yourself.

Now, if you will excuse me, my elbow hurts. I'm going to go soak it in Windex.

-J-

 

[Slapstick]

Gift card from Christmas!



Right. Chemistry doesn't lie. Look up the MSDS on Hoppe's #9. Then look up the solubility of KCl in the ingredients.

Now, #9 Plus that's recommended for black powder... That probably will.

I don't know how old that pint jar of #9 is, but I'd almost bet that it's "old". I've read a lot of anecdotal evidence (And yes, I fully realize that the plural of anecdote does not equal data) that the newer containers don't say this.

Also, chemically speaking, salts cannot be "neutralized". Once a salt is formed, it stays formed until you dissolve it with a solvent.

Anecdotal:

Yes Or No For Hoppes' #9 For Corrosive Ammo [Archive] - Calguns.net

Hoppes #9 good enough for corrosive priming?

Hoppe's #9 and corrosive ammo

Please go study the chemistry for yourself. Please go look up solubility tables for yourself.

Now, if you will excuse me, my elbow hurts. I'm going to go soak it in Windex.

-J-

Bottle less than a year old, I shoot a lot and clean up a lot of guns. Somehow I think I'll believe a manufacture that's been around since 1903 when cartilages were corrosive primed and black power was still common to know if there product works or not. If it didn't I don't think they'd still be in business 108 years later.

To each his own but the bores and bolts of the guns I shoot with corrosive primers are clean and shinny with no signs of corrosion using my method of cleaning.

According to Hoppe's FAQ you can use it with corrosive ammo. www.hoppes.com/au-faq.html

The links you provided, while an interesting read, are just people's opinions on par with those in this thread.

 

[RabbleRouser]

if you're shooting surplus ammo then is is going to leave deposits of salt inside your barrel and around the bolt face, you'll need to clean after every trip to the range. I put my rifles (disassembled of course) into the bath tub and pour near-boiling water down the barrel and follow through with a wire brush. after the salt is scrubbed off dry the rifle completely and then clean as normal with hoppes or whatever you prefer to use. don't forget the gas tube the gas port and the front end of the bolt.

trust me you dont wanna wait to clean too long, I took my Yugo out to the range one morning and shot a few hundred rounds of surplus ammo through it. i put it in my rifle bag and threw it in the trunk. I went and ran some errands as it was my day off. Had dinner with my gf. when I got home that evening i took the rifle inside and put it on my workbench, then a buddy called and I went and had a beer with him. by the time I got home it was late and I went to bed. the next morning I opened up the rifle to clean it and (in less than 24 hours) I already had some "christmas trees" of rust starting to form inside the barrel.

 

[SRR]

Can I rinse the rifle with water right after I'm done shooting? The rifle gets barrel gets really hot. By the way, I am a new to the whole corrosive ammo deal.

 

[PeaShooter]

I've got my grande skinny caramel macchiato from Starbucks sitting next to me as I type!

You realize that this is mostly water? Right? Just drink water! WATER WATER WATER WATER WATER

 

[chuddly]

You realize that this is mostly water? Right? Just drink water! WATER WATER WATER WATER WATER

LOL but its water with .0001% coffee

 

[Indy_Guy_77]

Can I rinse the rifle with water right after I'm done shooting? The rifle gets barrel gets really hot. By the way, I am a new to the whole corrosive ammo deal.

yes, you can.

Then you've got to get rid of the water...

You realize that this is mostly water? Right? Just drink water! WATER WATER WATER WATER WATER

As a diabetic... I drink plenty of water.

 

[Cat-Herder]

Can I rinse the rifle with water right after I'm done shooting? The rifle gets barrel gets really hot. By the way, I am a new to the whole corrosive ammo deal.

blast away.... rinse out the salts...dry up the gun (water will cause rust too ) you're good to go

really, corrosive ammo is only bad if you don't clean up your weapon after shooting it. Then...it's REALLY bad!

 

[TheDude]

BTW, I bought 500 rounds of that Yugo and I will be glad when it is all gone.[/QUOTE]










I was gonna buy some of this. Is it that bad?

 

[TheDude]

I've got my grande skinny caramel macchiato from Starbucks sitting next to me as I type!

You have to say all that when you buy a coffee?

 

[Cat-Herder]

I was gonna buy some of this. Is it that bad?

It's kinda dirty shooting, but my SKSs eat it up. I don't mind cleaning up after a blasting-fest. Brass-cased, corrosive Yugo surplus. Cheap and deadly to cans...

 

[Mr. Habib]

If you can find it, the best solvent for corrosive ammo residue is pure Di Hydrogen Monoxide.

 

[SEIndSAM]

Since I know I won't have time to clean it tonight, I just went to Wallyworld and bought some TulAmmo. Non corrosive, won't worry about it. I'll shoot the yugo stuff tomorrow and clean it up well after I get home.

 

[Phase2]

I was gonna buy some of this. Is it that bad?

It is a tradeoff...

Corrosive ammo is slightly cheaper than other bulk ammo. I haven't used any, but I've read that Yugo is as accurate as any 7.62x39 ammo.

On the other hand, there are other brands of ammo that you can get for just slightly more (Wolf, Brown Bear, Ulansk (sp?), Golden Tiger. etc) that don't have this problem.

I didn't want the hassle, so after testing different brands, I've settled on Golden Tiger. Good stuff!

Which option you choose is up to you.

 

[Indy_Guy_77]

If you can find it, the best solvent for corrosive ammo residue is pure Di Hydrogen Monoxide.

Must be careful with that, though. Large quantities, when inhaled, can kill you.

-J-

 

[sgreen3]

I always clean right after shooting, an oil as normal