Erosion Control

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  • firecadet613

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Looking for some input on how to control / minimize erosion in two spots.

    First is the overflow off my lake...it was built 25 years ago so this likely took a while to get this bad, but what can I put in here to reduce any further washout/erosion?

    3xuU8rv.jpeg


    On the side of our gravel driveway (which is a good 3-4' above the surrounding land), we have a spot where water runs off towards the creek and over the past few rains is beginning to wash away. I picked up a few straw wattle's before the bad rains this week as a temporary fix, but would like to fix it once and for all (and hopefully be aesthetically pleasing).

    0bprYMt.jpeg


    xv6CSfL.jpeg


    Hm6ut6N.jpeg


    mtUBs81.jpeg


    oXX6lJp.jpeg
     

    firecadet613

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    2nd this.


    I'm not sure about the driveway area. Need to plant something to help control it, but I don't have any recommendations off hand.
    It's a PITA getting anything to grow there, perhaps fixing it up and getting sod put down would resolve it.
     

    KJQ6945

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    Texas
    Where I live in Texas, rip rap, or anything resembling a rock would be cost prohibitive.

    It’s not the drain to my pond that is the problem, it’s where the water comes in. the hill behind my pond is 60’ higher than the pond.

    I scored a couple loads of bricks that my neighbor had been saving for 50 years. He decided he wasn’t going to do anything with them, and was happy for me to come get them.

    I lined the bottom with the bricks, then filled up the gulley with tree branches. It has eliminated the erosion for now, and I have no shortage of tree branches .

    29DCA501-7B01-48EE-8DBD-9C4F901F6FC2.png EBC52114-6513-471F-B1DB-E323EDCCD0F3.png

    The branches slow the water down enough to keep from washing all the sand back into the pond.
     

    bobjones223

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    Noblesville, IN
    As for the pond wash out area. Anything you can put in there to break up the energy of the water will work. As shown in the post above brush and trees would work also. It slows the water down so it doesn't pond the dirt as hard. It also allows small areas for the natural vegetation the take root and lock the dirt in.

    Once you get the material in there you will want to cut your discharge pipe back closer to the bank so it doesn't allow the water to take the vertical drop and gain speed before crashing into the soil.

    It is ALL about slowing the water down!
     

    GodFearinGunTotin

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    Mar 22, 2011
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    Mitchell
    Seems to me part of the problem with your pond overflow is the elevation of the exit of the pipe. Falling water has a lot of energy. Another option might be to add some fittings and pipe to that existing one so that the pipe’s exit is more at “ground level”. Then a dissipated pad (some rip-rap, broken concrete, etc.) at the pipe would help absorb the water’s energy.
     

    GodFearinGunTotin

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    Mitchell
    On your driveway…I don’t know if I have a good picture but you might have to hire someone to dig a ditch/swale to direct the water and add a culvert so that it can get where it wants to go without washing out your driveway.
     

    patience0830

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    Not far from the tree
    As for the pond wash out area. Anything you can put in there to break up the energy of the water will work. As shown in the post above brush and trees would work also. It slows the water down so it doesn't pond the dirt as hard. It also allows small areas for the natural vegetation the take root and lock the dirt in.

    Once you get the material in there you will want to cut your discharge pipe back closer to the bank so it doesn't allow the water to take the vertical drop and gain speed before crashing into the soil.

    It is ALL about slowing the water down!
    You could also extend the pipe and adjust the angle. Pour or place a concrete baffle at the end to slow runoff . The drive is tricky due to location and you'll probably fight that battle forever. Shade will keep anything deep rooted and dense from getting a really good start. Pine trees will break up rainfall all year and the roots help hold the soil if there is room for a few. We planted a ton of white pine in the 60's and 70's to control erosion.
     

    firecadet613

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Great ideas on the discharge pipe. I'll likely try to cut the pipe back, add some fittings, extend it towards the ground, and add material to break up the water.

    I just stacked 50 or so red pavers at my moms, hopefully she hasn't used them yet.

    So far, no concerns with the driveway washing out, just the soil near it.

    I might try and bury/build a retaining wall and build the soil back up. An erosion blanket with seed seems like the most aesthetically pleasing fix, just not sure if the grass will grow there. A friend suggested landscaping cloth with rock or gravel on it, just not sure I'd want to look at that.
     

    firecadet613

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    34   0   1
    Dec 24, 2012
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    Where I live in Texas, rip rap, or anything resembling a rock would be cost prohibitive.

    It’s not the drain to my pond that is the problem, it’s where the water comes in. the hill behind my pond is 60’ higher than the pond.

    I scored a couple loads of bricks that my neighbor had been saving for 50 years. He decided he wasn’t going to do anything with them, and was happy for me to come get them.

    I lined the bottom with the bricks, then filled up the gulley with tree branches. It has eliminated the erosion for now, and I have no shortage of tree branches .

    View attachment 340664 View attachment 340665

    The branches slow the water down enough to keep from washing all the sand back into the pond.
    I might give this a go. I have 50 or so red pavers I can toss in there and with over 10ac of woods, branches and sticks are abundant!

    I may cut or add some pipe, bringing it closer to the ground level first.

    Got some top soil, seed, and erosion blankets down by the driveway, I'll likely add some rip rap in the valley next to it to help hold it up.

    20240321_200551.jpg

    Don't mind the spot where I ran short...
     

    bobjones223

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    55   1   0
    Mar 3, 2011
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    Noblesville, IN
    I might give this a go. I have 50 or so red pavers I can toss in there and with over 10ac of woods, branches and sticks are abundant!

    I may cut or add some pipe, bringing it closer to the ground level first.

    Got some top soil, seed, and erosion blankets down by the driveway, I'll likely add some rip rap in the valley next to it to help hold it up.

    View attachment 341755

    Don't mind the spot where I ran short...
    Make sure to staple down the erosion blanket with blanket staples ALL over. If it doesn't make good ground contact the grass will tent the blanket off the ground defeating the purpose.
     

    Mij

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    May 22, 2022
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    In the corn and beans
    Not very, but I've been thinking of putting more rip rap around the lake. Worse case, I bet I can reach it with a wheelbarrow.
    Google around, research field drain basin w/screen, single wall drain tile, #3 crushed lime stone. That will give you enough ideas to help you out. Good luck.

    Hey @ditcherman
     

    firecadet613

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Google around, research field drain basin w/screen, single wall drain tile, #3 crushed lime stone. That will give you enough ideas to help you out. Good luck.

    Hey @ditcherman
    I guess I could do that, but a very heavy rain would overwhelm it. It spits out a lot of water (my lake is spring fed and one wet weather creek flows into it).

    The lake overflow works well and has taken 25 years to erode way to what it is. I'd just like to slow/stop it from getting worse (and quite honestly, I'm thinking ahead). Getting as much done around the property while I'm young and full of energy, so I don't have to worry about it as I age.

    I did put in a drain trough similar to that for my mom at the end of her driveway. Works extremely well! And all my downspouts are buried and discharge with the single wall pipe, well down the hill.
     
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