Erosion Control

[Leadeye]

I'm going to say rip rap for your drain pipe, not an easy job. Unless you have access to broken concrete/bricks/blocks like KJQ described you need something in there soon. Like GFGT said that fall from the pipe needs to be shortened.

 

[firecadet613]

Phew! 10" solid pipe (and 45° adapters) is expensive!

Any reason I couldn't just use this to drop it down to a reasonable level and put a pile of bricks/ rip rap at its exit?



Here's another angle, showing where it leads into the creek.

 

[GodFearinGunTotin]

Sometimes you can find this stuff used.

If you have a buddy that has a mini excavator, you might be able to dig it up and reposition it. You do have to be careful though…you could create a leak around the pipe and then you’d never keep your pond full.

I bought a tri-axle load of rip-rap a couple of years ago (probably 20 tons or so) and it was over $400.

 

[Mij]

“Any reason I couldn't just use this to drop it down to a reasonable level and put a pile of bricks/ rip rap at its exit?”



Nope. Might want to check out a Fern-co or similar connector. You need to make sure all joints are secure.

 

[Magyars]

Could you temporarily secure a couple bales of straw under the pipe?

 

[firecadet613]

Sometimes you can find this stuff used.

If you have a buddy that has a mini excavator, you might be able to dig it up and reposition it. You do have to be careful though…you could create a leak around the pipe and then you’d never keep your pond full.

I bought a tri-axle load of rip-rap a couple of years ago (probably 20 tons or so) and it was over $400.

No way I'm digging it up or messing with it. It's 25' deep, fully stocked and perfect, no reason to mess with the overflow.

Had I not walked the full length of the creek the other day, who knows how long it would have been until I noticed it had gotten that bad.

Tossing rip rap and branches in there sounds like the easiest/best fix... it'll just take a while to get it all back there. I was quoted $450 for a 20 ton load earlier today, I've been thinking about adding some additional rip rap to the banks.

Nope. Might want to check out a Fern-co or similar connector. You need to make sure all joints are secure.

I have an additional 20' section and a connector just laying back there, but it does me no good when I need to get it towards the ground.

 

[GodFearinGunTotin]

I have an additional 20' section and a connector just laying back there, but it does me no good when I need to get it towards the ground.

Oh, I guess I wasn’t reading closely enough. I didn’t catch you already had a section of pipe. Can you cut it back some, get a 45 degree coupler and make the connection?

 

[firecadet613]

Oh, I guess I wasn’t reading closely enough. I didn’t catch you already had a section of pipe. Can you cut it back some, get a 45 degree coupler and make the connection?

I didn't state it earlier, I looked up the price of 10" connectors and they are $300+.

 

[Twangbanger]

For the driveway, recommend getting some Liriope Spicata. Once it establishes, it creates a dense vegetation mat, that can still be mowed like grass.

The other thing is going to be a truckload of rocks. Otherwise, I can't think of a civil engineering project that won't aggravate you more than it's worth.

 

[KJQ6945]

It’s hard to tell from the pictures. How far is the drop from the pipe to where it’s ponding up in the second picture? I’m guessing 10 to 20 feet maybe?

Pipe is WAY cheaper than replacing your dam. Pipe the water down to the lowest point, bury the pipe in the trench Mother Nature started for you. Then use rip rap to slow the speed of the water in the new catch basin.

The current catch basin looks to be half way up the hill.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

I didn't state it earlier, I looked up the price of 10" connectors and they are $300+.

Can you just plug the overflow and build up the sides of the pond so that there's no way it could ever overflow?

 

[KJQ6945]

Can you pipe it down to where I put the circle on your pic?

 

[GodFearinGunTotin]

I didn't state it earlier, I looked up the price of 10" connectors and they are $300+.

HOLY COW…

I had to extend my driveway culvert a couple years ago. IIRC it was a 10” steel corrugated pipe. The straight connector to splice two section was surprisingly reasonable. Far less than $300. I bought it (and the section of pipe) at a local supplier.

 

[KJQ6945]

12” polyethylene pipe is about $300 for 20’ piece. 90’s are $50 ea.

Two 90’s, and two 20 foot pieces of pipe should get you to the bottom, plus a connector to whatever kind of existing pipe you have.

Bury it and forget it. Our great, great grandchildren will be gone before it rots out.

 

[KJQ6945]

Galvanized pipe rots out.



My old driveway culvert.

 

[ditcherman]

Sorry I'm late to the party!

Lots of good suggestions above, but what hasn't been mentioned directly at least is that the only water that doesn't erode the top of the ground is the water that you've moved or kept underground.
Of course I'm biased, because when you're a hammer everything is a nail, but really many erosion problems can be solved best buy getting the water underground asap. Many people try stopping the water as its running across the ground, and its too late then. Think uphill. But sometimes that's impossible.
The good news for you is your water is already underground, you just want to keep it that way for a bit longer. Or farther.

Here's the 45 coupler you want...75 bucks and that seems high to me still...
10-fitting-hdpe-45-degree-elbo
Just an example, any good supplier should have that.

This should fit over your green pipe, albeit with some slop, you could use a fernco adapter or just pole barn screw or better yet stainless steel screw it on. Then the other end would couple to that piece of 10" single wall that Menards is jipping you off for at 8.50 a foot, with a split coupler that should only be a few bucks.

That single wall pipe should be supported and buried, and IMO not be the direct outlet as it will float up over time. A good option to use would be dual wall pipe, if you bought 2 45's you could just use dual wall all the way. Also use an animal guard on any outlet. Dual wall pipe will handle any type of fill you want to throw in the hole, single wall can be pretty fragile. Rip rap would crush it or dent it at least. Speaking of which, I don't want to handle rip rap with my hoe, if you're willing to wheelbarrow it around you're hired.

My list price on dual wall is $5.04 and the single wall is 3.46. If you can find a drainage supplier near you can get better pipe and better price than Menards. Also the dual wall has much better flow characteristics, the corrugations really do slow the water down. Not sure if you have a drainage solutions near you?
/
^that little guy is a link to Drainage Solutions...

I would not cut the pipe off at all, that will just move the erosion back. Unless you get serious about keeping the water underground until it outlets at the creek, and need to cut the pipe off to make supporting the rest of the assembly easier.

As was stated above, CMP is of the debil. Worthless for drain tile outlets. Maybe ok for culverts.

 

[firecadet613]

It’s hard to tell from the pictures. How far is the drop from the pipe to where it’s ponding up in the second picture? I’m guessing 10 to 20 feet maybe?

Pipe is WAY cheaper than replacing your dam. Pipe the water down to the lowest point, bury the pipe in the trench Mother Nature started for you. Then use rip rap to slow the speed of the water in the new catch basin.

The current catch basin looks to be half way up the hill.

I'd guess it's 15' or so. Thankfully, this isn't at my dam, but down from it in the forest. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it appears they just bored through the hillside when they put the overflow in (it's very hilly here - 40' elevation changes on my property alone).

Can you just plug the overflow and build up the sides of the pond so that there's no way it could ever overflow?

It'll just go over the emergency spillway then, but it's higher elevation than my house. 2ac, 25-30ft deep, she's a lake, Clark! They did good when they built it...

12” polyethylene pipe is about $300 for 20’ piece. 90’s are $50 ea.

Two 90’s, and two 20 foot pieces of pipe should get you to the bottom, plus a connector to whatever kind of existing pipe you have.

Bury it and forget it. Our great, great grandchildren will be gone before it rots out.

Honestly I could just lay the pipe out on the ground, in the valley it has created and it would rarely be seen.

Sorry I'm late to the party!

Lots of good suggestions above, but what hasn't been mentioned directly at least is that the only water that doesn't erode the top of the ground is the water that you've moved or kept underground.
Of course I'm biased, because when you're a hammer everything is a nail, but really many erosion problems can be solved best buy getting the water underground asap. Many people try stopping the water as its running across the ground, and its too late then. Think uphill. But sometimes that's impossible.
The good news for you is your water is already underground, you just want to keep it that way for a bit longer. Or farther.

Here's the 45 coupler you want...75 bucks and that seems high to me still...
10-fitting-hdpe-45-degree-elbo
Just an example, any good supplier should have that.

This should fit over your green pipe, albeit with some slop, you could use a fernco adapter or just pole barn screw or better yet stainless steel screw it on. Then the other end would couple to that piece of 10" single wall that Menards is jipping you off for at 8.50 a foot, with a split coupler that should only be a few bucks.

That single wall pipe should be supported and buried, and IMO not be the direct outlet as it will float up over time. A good option to use would be dual wall pipe, if you bought 2 45's you could just use dual wall all the way. Also use an animal guard on any outlet. Dual wall pipe will handle any type of fill you want to throw in the hole, single wall can be pretty fragile. Rip rap would crush it or dent it at least. Speaking of which, I don't want to handle rip rap with my hoe, if you're willing to wheelbarrow it around you're hired.

My list price on dual wall is $5.04 and the single wall is 3.46. If you can find a drainage supplier near you can get better pipe and better price than Menards. Also the dual wall has much better flow characteristics, the corrugations really do slow the water down. Not sure if you have a drainage solutions near you?
/
^that little guy is a link to Drainage Solutions...

I would not cut the pipe off at all, that will just move the erosion back. Unless you get serious about keeping the water underground until it outlets at the creek, and need to cut the pipe off to make supporting the rest of the assembly easier.

As was stated above, CMP is of the debil. Worthless for drain tile outlets. Maybe ok for culverts.

Excellent response, thank you! Franklin is just about an hour from me, not far at all. Not sure where you are in the state or if you sell direct to consumer, but I'm not far from Bloomington.

So, that 45 adapter you linked to, should be no issues securing it to the green pipe (doesn't need to be waterproof), a section of dual wall to the ground, another 45 adapter and then dual wall it until it gets to the creek, with an animal guard on the outlet?

Ideally, I'd cover the dual wall, but any reason why I couldn't just leave it exposed and laying in the valley?

 

[ditcherman]

I'd guess it's 15' or so. Thankfully, this isn't at my dam, but down from it in the forest. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it appears they just bored through the hillside when they put the overflow in (it's very hilly here - 40' elevation changes on my property alone).



It'll just go over the emergency spillway then, but it's higher elevation than my house. 2ac, 25-30ft deep, she's a lake, Clark! They did good when they built it...



Honestly I could just lay the pipe out on the ground, in the valley it has created and it would rarely be seen.



Excellent response, thank you! Franklin is just about an hour from me, not far at all. Not sure where you are in the state or if you sell direct to consumer, but I'm not far from Bloomington.

So, that 45 adapter you linked to, should be no issues securing it to the green pipe (doesn't need to be waterproof), a section of dual wall to the ground, another 45 adapter and then dual wall it until it gets to the creek, with an animal guard on the outlet?

Ideally, I'd cover the dual wall, but any reason why I couldn't just leave it exposed and laying in the valley?

Plastic pipe, dual wall included, floats if there’s more water outside it than inside it. It’s just not very heavy. It will move around and possibly float away unsecured.

I know the guys at drainage solutions can tell you the best way to hook the pipes up so they’re soil tight.

I’m north central, not set up for retail but do have a lot of inventory usually for my own use and neighbors can come over and grab stuff.

 

[firecadet613]

Plastic pipe, dual wall included, floats if there’s more water outside it than inside it. It’s just not very heavy. It will move around and possibly float away unsecured.

I know the guys at drainage solutions can tell you the best way to hook the pipes up so they’re soil tight.

I’m north central, not set up for retail but do have a lot of inventory usually for my own use and neighbors can come over and grab stuff.

Awesome, I'll give them a call Monday.

Thank you!

 

[KJQ6945]

Ditcherman saves the day! I knew you’d get here eventually.