Found a drain pipe, now how do I fix it?

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  • jkaetz

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    Many weeks ago now the wife got some new bookshelves and we put on the wall. Fast forward to today and she tells the the wall is leaking?! It seems she quite precisely picked a location that landed the screws in what appears to be a 3" drain from our 2nd floor bathroom(s) to the basement. Don't know why it took this long to show up as a problem but now that I'm aware, how do I fix it? Is there a PVC filler I can use? The holes are tiny and the pipe is vertical. I imagine the waste water would prefer to go down the pipe to the basement and out of the house before coming out the holes. It looks like the water followed one of the screws to leak today. I don't think there is enough space behind the drywall to cut the section out and fit in a replacement with joints.
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Not a pro. And this probably isnt the proper fix, but Epoxy? Maybe its worth a shot?

    I believe the proper fix is to cut out the damaged sections and cement in a new piece. Worst case they make rubber sleeves with a worm gear on each end to secure it to each pipe section. High quality versions also have a metal cover.

    I used one with the metal cover when I had to replace my toilet flange where it connects to the lateral. I couldnt move it enough to slip a coupler on it. Even horizontal its never leaked in 20 years.
     

    blain

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    If you can get enough room to work, I'd slit up the side of an elastomeric polyvinyl chloride coupler and place the slit away from the hole. $10 bucks and you're golden. OR you could patch it with T-Rex Brute Force duct tape.
    HomeDepot_9.18.jpg
    This suggestion, in no way constitutes a code approved method of repair.
     
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    CHCRandy

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    You could probably get it to not leak using hydraulic water stop cement.....but you would have to remove the drywall I think. I cant imagine how you can fix this without removing drywall though. If you remove drywall, on a vertical pipe......I would think you would have many options.
     

    04FXSTS

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    What Cameramonkey said. I can't remember the proper name but they make a rubber sleeve to repair PVC pipes, different lengths and diameters. I use these when I changed out my tub/shower for a walk in shower. Had to re-arrange the waste water pipes and that is what I used. These were put in horizontal and after a little more than a year they are fine. Just checked on them a couple weeks ago while under the house to do some wiring. Jim.
     

    firecadet613

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    Cut the drywall out (sounds like it'll be hidden by the bookshelf), cut the bad section out and glue in a new piece. Likely less than $10, $20 if you need PVC primer and cement.

    The easy way out would be some sort of epoxy to fill in the holes, or cut a PVC coupler in half, primer it and glue it over the holes...

    I'm not sure how the rubber repair sleeve would work unless you completely cut the pipe to slide it over the pipe. And if you're doing that, may as well just replace a few inches of pipe and do it right.
     

    Slow Hand

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    I’d get it good and dry and squirt a little RTV silicone in the hole. You have zero pressure on a drop on a waste line like that. yes, the proper thing to do would be to cut it out and replace with with some new pipe and a couple of glue couplings or fernco bands but silicone will do just fine.
     

    jkaetz

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    I have the primer and cement, that wouldn't be the problem. Space would be. The drywall is literally against the pipe. I'm guessing it's a 3" pipe between 2x4 studs and drywall. No extra space for couplers. I'm wondering if this will work. We're probably talking 1/16” holes. https://a.co/d/0XM3yj7

    If we'd gone a couple inches either direction it would have missed.
     

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    firecadet613

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    I have the primer and cement, that wouldn't be the problem. Space would be. The drywall is literally against the pipe. I'm guessing it's a 3" pipe between 2x4 studs and drywall. No extra space for couplers. I'm wondering if this will work. We're probably talking 1/16” holes. https://a.co/d/0XM3yj7

    If we'd gone a couple inches either direction it would have missed.
    Damn. Clean it, dry it, fill the holes with RTV (I'd use GE clear silicone) and let it cure.

    Get a small piece of PVC, prime it and glue it over that spot. The PVC will fuse together.

    You should be good to go.
     

    Gingerbeardman

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    I agree with slow hand, given the pressure some 100% silicone should work. Leave the drywall open and observe for a few days to verify. Having just fixed a few avoidable leaks myself, I feel your pain.
     

    Super Bee

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    giphy.gif
     

    natdscott

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    Pretty much any epoxy should work. Remember what was coming out of that pipe. Clean everything that has gotten wet with bleach water to kill any bacteria. keep that in mind when replacing the drywall too. Not something fun to mess around with.

    At least it's theirs. :D
     

    92FSTech

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    I'd just cut the drywall back to the nearest studs and replace that section of pipe. It's not worth risking a leak down the road, and drywall is cheap and easy to replace. The worst part is sanding and painting, and I'd get my wife to do that because she's better at it than me (plus, it sounds like she made the holes!).
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Pretty much any epoxy should work. Remember what was coming out of that pipe. Clean everything that has gotten wet with bleach water to kill any bacteria. keep that in mind when replacing the drywall too. Not something fun to mess around with.
    THIS. Go get a drywall patch section or two. I think they sell 2x2 foot project sections.
    Open up that wall stud to stud on either side of the pipe as far down as you can detect poopwater got. Might be down to the floor. Cut that crap (literally) out and replace it. You dont want poopy walls.
    While its open, pick your poison on the fix. Also once it is open, you will realize how much space you have to work. Probably a bit more than you realize.

    Another option could be Mastic Tape. (its with electrical tape bc its for sealing outdoor electrical splices) Its basically a strip of 1/8" by 1/2" rubber tape. you stretch it slightly as you wrap the pipe, overlapping by half. Put several layers on. Within hours the tape fuses into 1 solid rubbery blob. But some form of epoxy would probably be better.

    I fixed a sink drain at church where they didnt mate up where the sink drain went down into the concrete floor coupler. It finally broke loose because only like 1/8" of the pipe was actually glued into the floor receptacle. After it broke loose you could almost slide a piece of paper through the gap. I REALLY didnt feel like ripping out cabinets and replumbing the entire wall, so it got 6 wraps of that tape. And so far, knock on wood, no leaks.
     

    patience0830

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    Not far from the tree
    cut away enough drywall , take a PVC union, cut it in half, use PVC primer & glue to glue it on as a patch.. as long as it is not a pressure pipe you should be fine..
    Coupling, not a union. No bigger than the hole is, some pvc shavings from drilling on a spare piece and some pvc cement mixed together and applied under a piece of duct tape should hold for about forever. RTV slicone, 2 part plastic epoxy, all should provide adequate service.
     
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