Getting started on my M2HB build

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  • SPOOK331945

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    Ok been slacking the past couple weeks. I finally got all the rivets holes drilled except for the 4 holes for bolt latch bracket on the RHSP. Not too much left to do now. I need to countersink the holes still, ordered a cutter for that. Still need to cut the small slot on the side plates for the link stripper as I discussed earlier in the thread. Also I need to put the 60 degree relief in the 2 square holes in the RHSP. the holes have a t-bolt that goes in them with an angle cut on it. The angle will have to be cut so that the bolts seat properly to the side plate. These bolts retain the retracting slide group.

    When I drilled the holes in the side plates. I had it all assembled, ensuring the backplate/spade moved freely for easy field stripping. Also making sure the top cover did not bind. essentially making sure everything was square. With it all assembled I went around will a transfer punch in all the holes before drilling. The trunnion holes will have to be marked with the transfer punch and drilled one side at a time. I used the top cover holes as a dowel hole and c-clamped everything together. Once those were done I bolted the trunnion and side plates together and put the top, bottom and back plates back on. Those holes could be located from the outside. Everything that had a preexisting hole was used as a jig when drilling to keep the drill bit on location. As long as you take your time and don't force anything allowing the drill bit to cut, it will follow the hole.

    The 1/4" holes for the top cover pin were already drilled in the side plates. These holes are what I used to locate everything. I used drill blanks as my dowels. I didn't have any dowels long enough for the situation so I substituted the drill blanks Normally I've seen people use the pintle pin hole on the trunnion for locating everything. With having new side plates that hole has not been drilled/reamed to size. Currently they are 1/2", they will need to be 9/16". The top cover pin holes that I was talking about earlier was already drilled to size. With them to size I couldn't dictate their location anymore. If I was to try and finish the pintle holes to 9/16" first and use them to locate everything, the top cover holes could be off slightly and would call for an unsightly oval shaped hole. Because of this, this is why I used them as the master/ "0" location. Once I have a couple rivets in one of the side plates I will open up the pintle pin hole to 9/16" on one side then reassemble and continue on. The trunnion itself is already drilled to size so I will be using it as a jig, this is why I will be doing this one side at a time. Again as long as you go slow and don't force anything the drill bit will follow.

    Yes I have a drill press in my kitchen.. Definitely not the best setup, I"ll be honest I was being lazy. Its just popping holes anyways. Probably could do it with a hand drill if you really wanted to but wasn't gonna be that lazy hahaha

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    JeepHammer

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    Riveting... My least favorite part...
    They had us practice on aluminum rivets.
    Not even close to steel rivets! I had to learn all over again.
    Thankfully no one had to depend on my rivets or nothing would work!

    Taking your time & looking REAL good!
     

    SPOOK331945

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    Riveting... My least favorite part...
    They had us practice on aluminum rivets.
    Not even close to steel rivets! I had to learn all over again.
    Thankfully no one had to depend on my rivets or nothing would work!

    Taking your time & looking REAL good!

    I'm going to make a test plate so I can try out different rivet lengths in hopes of getting matching heads once they're mashed. Not a very "fun" process
     

    praff

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    I'm going to make a test plate so I can try out different rivet lengths in hopes of getting matching heads once they're mashed. Not a very "fun" process


    Starting to look like a real weapon!!!!

    And BTW..... Personally I wouldn't get too hung up on making the rivet heads perfect. Once that sukka is operational, the last thing you will look at is the rivets. I was wound up about it on my 1919 build and all but one turned out great....AND you never even look at them.

    Just my .02
     
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    SPOOK331945

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    Starting to look like a real weapon!!!!

    And BTW..... Personally I wouldn't get too hung up on making the rivet heads perfect. Once that sukka is operational, the last thing you will look at is the rivets. I was wound up about it on my 1919 build and all but one turned out great....AND you never even look at them.

    Just my .02

    You're right I probably am getting to wound up about them. Just my OCD is kicking in lol, want that pretty factory look
     

    SPOOK331945

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    Finished all the machine work up this weekend got all the holes countersunk and a couple other odds and ends. I'll get more pictures on tonight.

    Testing out the Plinkers Jig yesterday and found the optimum rivet length for my build. They seem to form nicely with about .200" sticking out.

    Getting a Parkerizing tank made too. Never parkerized anything before, for the most part it seems pretty straight forward. Like any other finish operation its 90% prep work vs 10% of the actual process to achieve good results. I'm going to test out some small pieces on the stove top before I go for the finish line. My goal is to keep the rivet and parkerizing processes close together. I don't really want the finished receiver setting around waiting to be parkerized. Its really not as big of a deal as I'm making it, but I tend to be very particular on the finish of a firearm. I like them looking pretty lol.

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    SPOOK331945

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    here's an update with pictures as promised.

    Gotten all the holes drilled and countersunk. Except for the pawl bracket rivet holes. I intentionally left those last, because of the slot cut in the slide plates needed to be located as I mentioned earlier in the thread.

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    Basically with it all assembled, I used the trunnion to located the slot in the side plates. I believe it was a 3/16" endmill if I remember correctly. Really you could file this if you needed to. It is more or less clearance for the link stripper.

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    I also got the angles cut for the retracting slide group T-bolts. Now most people that I've seen build these usually file the corners out square. I chose to leave the radius in the corners. This is where my Tool Maker habits show. All my Mentors always preached NO SHARP CORNERS. Sharp corners cause weak points. By NO means am I saying everyone else is wrong filing the corners out square. Its been done that way for years and they've done just fine... My thinking behind this and how I taught is the Master/Slave part relation. What I mean by this, is that I want the side plates to be the Master in the relationship. The part that will have the least wear and possibility of failing. The T-bolts on the other hand are the slave parts. By leaving the radius in the corners I'm adding strength to the side plate and reducing the possibility of it splitting in the corners later. Is this where it needs extra strength? Probably not, due to the fact that everyone else squares the corners up and I've never heard or even seen one ever fail there. But whats it going to hurt? Nothing. Doing this I now had to round the corners on the T-bolts to match the side plates. I've made the T-bolts the slave parts, but at the same time added strength to the bolts by removing their sharp corners. These could easily be replaced in just a few minutes vs. repairing the side plate, if by some holy h$%# chance it did fail. And not to mention, at a much cheaper expense. Most likely they'll strip the threads before those corners fail anyways.

    Either way that's just my 2 cents on that part. Just something that I was taught from the very beginning and always try to practice on anything I'm building.

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    SPOOK331945

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    Haven't made much progress on the M2 itself since I last posted, but I've managed to picked up a new mount for the jeep! I'll have to make some modification to the roll bar though.

    I'll going to have the mount and armor plate sandblasted and powder coated. Thinking flat black, maybe OD green. Black would match the jeep better though lmao.

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    SPOOK331945

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    Looks great I have a Semi kit from gryohos and a kmp rsp. I should really dig out. Did you make your one rivet head former? You using a press or a air hammer on the rivets ?

    I picked up one the the Plinkers riveting jigs. I thought about making one but for the cost I got a Plinkers jig it wasn't worth the time and effort.

    I'm using a press. The rivet kit that I got from one of the guys over on the 1919a4 forum are good and soft. They form very nicely.
     

    SPOOK331945

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    Been a little while sense I've posted to this thread. Gotten side tracked with other projects, particularly the Glock build in my other thread. Plus past couple months I've been getting everything I need to parkerize it. Finally getting close, just a matter of cleaning a spot in the garage now.

    Got the tanks welded up this week. My main problem was most of the tanks everyone sells is 6"x6", the reciever is almost 8".. So had to fab some bigger ones up. Went with 9x9x32 and pretty happy with it. Roughly about 10 gallon

    Got an old 1100 that is in need of some TLC, that one is going to be my test gun. If everything goes as planned I'll be parking this weekend.


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    SPOOK331945

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    Well I finally got to do some parking this weekend. Didn't use the big tanks yet, but i picked up a couple different sizes buffet pans for smaller parts. Overall it went great!

    It all came out even coated no oil marks. little hard to see in the pictures because everything was oiled up pretty good by that point.

    I sandblasted everything just before hand, handled everything with glove to keep from contaminating the surface again. Right after the blaster I let it soak in Muriatic acid for about a minute or two. that really helped get a very consistent etching and de-grease. After than a water rinse to kill the acid then into the hot water bath for a couple minutes then right into the park tank.

    Once it was in the park tank I let it sit for about 15 minutes, then another water bath once I pulled it out. Air blasted it to dry it off, then straight into oil. I used hydraulic oil. It runs about $20 at rural king for 5 gallons. Filled up a container and completely submerged the parts for about an hour or so.

    I couldn't be more pleased. This next week I'm going rivet the receiver up then park it, along with an old 1100 that was in need of some TLC.

    Once I get the M2 done I'll be back over on the Glock slide project and get that finished up.

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    SPOOK331945

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    spent the weekend riveting and sandblasting. The trunnion is complete and half the top cover, just leave the bottom plate. Not the prettiest rivets, but beggars cant be choosers.


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    DocIndy

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    Awesome project. Building your own seems much more rewarding than just buying one. I’ve eyed the 50 cal, but have no where to really stretch out the capabilities. Kind of what is keeping me away from the 338 Lapua
     
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