How to recover a vehicle

[GLOCKMAN23C]

I have carry a 30' recovery strap and a set of cluster hooks. I will not hook to anyone but family/friends. The last one I did, I had to drag her Jimmy back to her house, because she kept getting stuck in the snow. Then on the way home, again, came across a plastic bumpered sedan that was stuck. I refused to hook up; there was nothing to grab without destroying the plastic bumper. I may stop to see if someone is ok, but I won't offer assistance to get them out, call a tow truck.

 

[DangerousDave]

I remember my Dad being woke up one night by a guy that was stuck in front of our house. The guy offered $25 if my Dad would pull him out of the ditch with his tractor. After my Dad pulled him out and unhooked the chain, the guy took off and never did pay him. Kind of soured me out on pulling anybody out of a ditch except for close friends or family.

 

[Hookeye]

My recovery strap is in the garage.
If coyoting tomorrow, proly ought to throw it in the Jeep.

 

[Leadeye]

Not much you can't move with log chains and a Hi-Lift jack.

 

[actaeon277]

carpet scrap across the chain/strap can minimize backlash if it separates.

 

[Tburke798]

Seeing a few cars off the road this morning made me realize I'm lacking something in the Expedition to be helpful/to be saved.

Looking online, I learned that I need a recovery strap (with loops) and not a tow strap (with hooks). I also learned that I can put one strap loop through the receiver hitch and secure it with the main pin, and I also learned that I need to get some D-rings/loops in order to use the strap with the front hooks/rings.

So, #1, what are your recommendations on the D-ring/loop for the front rings and for a recovery strap?

#2, Youtube has some helpful videos on how to recover a vehicle, but what says the peanut gallery?

Your talking about the straps that are 8000-10,000 lbs and stretch some.....they use more of a sling shot type performace to help pull cars and trucks out of mud, grass and back onto the road? I've seen them used before and work much better than regular straps and chains. If your talking about yourself getting back on the road you can't beat a winch

 

[bwframe]

In today's day and age of distracted drivers, where cops with lights on get crashed into?

 

[Clay Pigeon]

carpet scrap across the chain/strap can minimize backlash if it separates.

Chains dont snap back / backlash....

 

[churchmouse]

Chains dont snap back / backlash....

Standing in the mud helping extract a jeep and the snatch strap (hook on the end) broke. Sailed through the back window of the pick up truck doing the snatching. No one was seriously hurt just some cuts.
I have a serious tow strap in the truck. It is not a stretch piece. Chains (we have some) are just to darn heavy.

 

[JeepHammer]

From a LONG TIME off-road Jeeper...
The guys are correct about closed connectors, but they aren't 'D' rings, they are called a shackle. (Anchor Shackle to be precise)
(Same thing, 'D ring' is just slang).

You do what you want, but under no circumstances will I ever use a strap or rope with 'Hooks'.
I've seen them shoot through vehicles like bullets, in the back window, through the headrest and out the windshield!
I saw a hook let go, it went through a spoke in the grill and clean through the radiator, breaking the fan clutch.

I will never use any shackle made anywhere but the US. Period.
Foreign made shackles will get you killed, and I'm not exaggerating.

I have all Crosby shackles, I've never seen one broken, and I've seen riggers lift HUGE loads, most won't use anything but Crosby.
They aren't cheap, but you only need one or two if you strap has loops instead of hooks.

Check the military surplus for straps, there is a big difference between a lift/pull strap and a soggy 'Snatch' strap.
Military surplus is usually the very best you can get, WAY underated and all rated for suspended loads.
'Snatch' straps (or ropes) are LONG, the idea is to get a run and let the momentum of the pulling vehicle 'Snatch' or yank the stuck vehicle out.
Pulls straps usually don't have much sponge or give, they don't stretch, so they are best for pulling instead of yanking.

Farm kids all know this, so do a lot of horse people...
When you are going to pull on something (not snatch) the shorter the strap the better.
Longer straps give leverage to the stuck vehicle, while short straps will pull up as well as forward when someone is in the ditch.
Pulling up is a big deal, and some guys carry a pipe to stand up in the spare tire as a 'Gin Pole' to get something up and moving.
Keep in mind, it's not always snow, you OFTEN sink (or bury yourself) in mud trying to get out, and breaking the suction mud gets you have to pull up.

With a long pull strap, when someone is in the ditch, and the pull vehicle is on the road, the strap will bottom out on the crowned edge of the ditch/roadway, you wind up pulling the stuck vehicle into a dirt/mud bank instead up and out.
We call this 'Plowing'...
Ever see someone have to pull someone 100 yards down the ditch to eventually get the stuck vehicle to 'Crown'?...

Here is a killer tow strap on eBay, that's a $300 strap anywhere else, I almost pushed 'By Now' when I saw it...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-16-FOO...1cc4409b1e:g:FxIAAOSwzT5ZeLB9&redirect=mobile

Here is a killer deal on a set of shackles...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-Cr...521673701a:g:T8YAAOSwOWdcLARO&redirect=mobile

 

[femurphy77]

Lot of great vids out there on how (Not) to do it: [video=youtube;t2XsY_0YIMo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2XsY_0YIMo[/video]








I've actually pulled a rear bumper off a car when attempting to help somebody out. I told them they had to find a better attach point and they wouldn't listen to me, several times. They begged me to pull them out. They at least owned it when the rear bumper ripped off.

 

[indyjohn]

I ran across this how to some years ago. It accurately illustrates the correct way to apply the practices pointed out in the previous posts. Quite the "Expert Guide".

Extracting Stuck Equipment Safely

 

[JeepHammer]

I ran across this how to some years ago. It accurately illustrates the correct way to apply the practices pointed out in the previous posts. Quite the "Expert Guide".

Extracting Stuck Equipment Safely

That is a GREAT link!

There is a reason I only use SCREW PIN Crosby shackles, they are SO MUCH HARDER TO BREAK!
A smooth pin clevis (farm stores) will spread, sheer the little retaining pin, and LAUNCH like a 30mm tank buster round!

Once you see an open 'J' hook or smooth pin clevis go in the back window, through the headrest,and out the windshield,
Or see on bust through the sheet metal, take out the radiator and bust the fan clutch off the water pump, you won't use them again unless you are REAL stupid...

The headrest guy was lucky, he was leaned over looking in the driver's side mirror, it only left about a half inch wide gash in his shoulder, it could have hit bone, or worse yet, his head.

The farm store clevis was, ironically, dropped over a trailer ball when it opened, sheering off the cotter pin and launching through the grill/radiator.

------

I have to point out here, darn few vehicles are designed for recovery, on either end of the tow.
A trailer tow ball IS NOT a recovery point!
It's even worse if that ball is through a bumper...

There is a REASON you see farm equipment, big trucks, serious off roaders with big, heavy frame rail connecting cross members or bumpers, and big, seriously reinforced shackle mounts, and if you are smart, you will pass on the powder coat or chrome shackle and get a serious forged shackle.
They aren't 'Pretty', but they don't catastrophically fail.

I'm reminded of the guy that shows up with a 17,000 pound winch (after being bad stuck)...
He goes to defeat the hole that beat him...
Gets swamped BAD,
Climbs out grinning, unspools the 17,000 pound winch cable and finds an anchor,
The 17,000 pound winch is grunting, and the Jeep is starting to move when there is a loud 'POP!' followed immedately by a 'BANG!' and we all looked just in time to see the winch & winch plate (bolted to the top of the frame horns in front) depart the vehicle and continues to wind in wire until the battery cables separated from the vehicle!

3 ea, 3/8" bolts loaded in full sideways sheer, the winch plate/frame acted as bolt cutters!
To top everything else off, in crotch deep mud he had to find the fire extinguisher since the battery cables were trying to burn the vehicle down!

Lessons learned...
Use ALL the bolts when installing a winch plate, if there is ANY doubt, add more!
Use Grade 8 hardware, not "buy by the pound" farm store bolts made in China.
Pull, don't sheer! (Pulling on a trailer ball is sheer load).
A 2/0 AWG battery positive cable & 1,000 amp battery WILL burn through a factory cast iron exhaust manifold and/or frame rail!
Don't yell, "Hay Y'all, Watch This!" If you haven't tested it before, somewhere in private...
Always have a fire extinguisher!

No one has ever said, "I wish I'd bought cheaper, lighter duty recovery gear so it would fail, hurt/kill people & tear things up."

 

[pitbulld45]

I would like to add it may be nice to carry a come-a-long to help extract yourself also along with a closed end strap that will go around a tree, can hook shackles to it etc..

 

[mike4]

Looping a strap over a pin through the standard hitch receiver is extremely weak and exposes a nylon strap to damage under load where it exits the square receiver channels. I carry two solid hitch receiver mounted shackles in case it's a back to back pull with another receiver-equipped vehicle pulling them out or pulling me out. I think the best thing I could find was Smittybilt brand but I replace the uninspiring made in China "anchor shackles" (correct nomenclature courtesy a previous post) with Van Beest shackles made in Netherlands. I had no clue about Crosby at the time but found these and they seem to be "first-world" quality.

Have an ARB brand snatch strap, the type designed to stretch as mentioned above. Got a couple 10 foot generic yellow multi-ply nylon straps from the same rigging supply company where I got the shackles that were cheap enough to consider expendable if needed to wrap around something solid under my vehicle (if I'm stuck) or another to get a solid attachment. Saves the expensive ARB strap from wear or getting cut on metal edges. Link the two ends of the cheap yellow straps into the tow strap with another shackle; this link shows a good photo of correct connection: Winching Do?s And Don?ts: Tips And Tricks for Safe 4x4 recovery

That does create a metal projectile and you always want some kind of an anchor over a line to slow it down if it snaps. I have a couple of heavy rubber semi-truck mudflaps that I've slotted near one end. The weight as well as air resistance will reduce but not eliminate danger if a strap breaks.

And I agree with others above, in this day and age in most circumstances, unless someone is under grave threat being stuck assistance is limited to friends and family. I read many other "no good deed goes unpunished" horror stories in other threads where I was researching recovery gear years ago.

 

[JeepHammer]

I guess some are going to get some recovery experience in recovery...
Glad I mounted the snow blade about a month ago!

 

[churchmouse]

I have carry a 30' recovery strap and a set of cluster hooks. I will not hook to anyone but family/friends. The last one I did, I had to drag her Jimmy back to her house, because she kept getting stuck in the snow. Then on the way home, again, came across a plastic bumpered sedan that was stuck. I refused to hook up; there was nothing to grab without destroying the plastic bumper. I may stop to see if someone is ok, but I won't offer assistance to get them out, call a tow truck.

Years ago the lady across the street was trying to clear the huge plow row the city had left across her drive. We had not cleared off ours yet because the snow was still coming down hard and it would only be plowed in again.
Anyway she was stuck so my son (drives for Zores recovery at the time) went across the street with one of our 4WD's and snatched her off the mound. He then proceeded to pull 3 other neighbors off theirs. I told him to stop and we would get the blower and clear drives for the older folks. Then my phone rings. The 1st lady we pulled out was stuck again down the street. We both went down and got her out again. I asked her to take it home as conditions were terrible. She said it was important she get to the store. Off to the store she went.

20 minutes later she calls and is stuck again. Off we go to get her. Stuck getting out of the parking lot. This Time I put her in the truck with my son and I drove her car home. No issues. Parked it in her cleared driveway (we had been running the blower) and carried in her emergency supply's. Pepsi's. That was it. Freaking Pepsi's. She is up in age but not that old and is a good neighbor so we take care of her. I did tell her that was the last time this would happen for a 6 of Pepsi.

People.

 

[JeepHammer]

That's funny right there!

I've got an old Grand Wagoneer with lockers, chains & snow blade, guess who's got a full time job on his day off?

I'm two tall espressos in and have my (long) driveway plowed.
I haven't even checked the messages this morning, I know voicemail is full...

 

[actaeon277]

Yup Mouse. People do stupid things, go out for stupid reasons, and can't drive.
Drives me crazy.
Those same people tell me I shouldn't go out.
Geez. I'M GOING TO WORK. Which is kinda important.
And, I DON'T get stuck. Well, once in 2009 or 2010. I actually know my limitations. I take it easy on the gas and the brake. I keep the gas tank more full in the winter. I have boots and coats on.
People drive me nuts going out in socks/sandals and a tee shirt.
They want me to help them, but NO ONE in the car is dressed for the weather

 

[russc2542]

https://odditymall.com/bush-winch

Believe it or not this system works well to get a vehicle back into operation.

Interesting. I'm curious though, it says it attaches to the vehicles lug nuts then says no tools needed. so how does it work?

I've seen another version that hooked into the wheel spokes or holes... seems functional but easy to damage or break them since they aren't meant to be loaded like that.

EDIT: He is either a moron, or a psychopath. I cant decide.

Just re watched this version and this video doesnt show the aftermath of the original I saw, as there are about 20 seconds more to this at the end. The white truck had 4" of mud and grass covering the front of his truck and windshield. they were scooping it off by the handfuls.

Why can't he be both?
I imagine.

On hardware and shackles... for the metalwork yes go with US-made (Crosby is a good one) and rated hardware. some of the problem was already mentioned, another is that they publish their testing and rating procedures. you can know that a 1-ton rated shackle has a 8:1 safety factor based on the lowest breaking point: of the 100 they tested, the least any broke was 8 tons. Different mfrs will have different formulas (5:1, 10:1 etc and minimum breaking point, average, max, or somewhere in between). Chinese ones you never know. same(ish) 1 ton shackle... what safety factor did they use? 5:1, 8:1... 2:1? What reference point did they use? minimum? max? Lets say they have a 2:1 margin from the max breaking point... nervous yet?

The other part is quality tracking and liability: US made stuff will have a pic code, 3 letters/numbers that the mfr can look up and tell you the alloy content, where the metal was mined, who shipped it, heat treatment, manufacturing location, even who was working that shift. If something happens, they will find out what happened for sure. the China shackle breaks... you gonna try to sue China?

Lastly is the actual metallurgy. Back in school (I went to school for tech theatre, largely hanging things and people overhead for live performance... without the wires showing. good hardware is a MUST) we did pull tests to fail parts to make a point (unfortunately the load cell was broken on the tester but you could gauge from the whine of the motor). US made good stuff broke a lot higher than the china stuff. how they failed was also telling: the US stuff has a much better heat treatment and will deform a lot before failing, you'll pull a circular shackle almost twice it's length before it fails (thereby warning you "back off dumba**"). You'll ruin it and might have to cut it off but you aren't dead. Stuff from china just snaps. no warning, little deformation, then BANG.