Installing a flash suppressor

[tylerr23]

Any tips? Will be receiving one in the mail soon and wanna know what to expect. What tools will I need?

 

[romad7]

http://youtu.be/7Uz5Ve7MTiM

I highly recommend the Magpul block and wrench. I have used other methods but this combo is the best. Wish I could have just bought these to begin with. There are cheaper but I don't think there is better for the price.

 

[smspears592]

When I have wanted to do something like that, I just run it down to my local gun shop and they do it. I think they charged me $10.00 last time. It is cheaper than buying the tools, unless you are going to often. Good luck.

 

[seedubs1]

Seriously.....for a flash hider, you don't need any special tools.

Look up making a barrel vise block out of 2x4s. Clamp the barrel in your newly made vise blocks, and use a wrench to tighten the flash hider.
AR-15/M16 barrell vise block

If you want to get fancy, get a Geissele reaction rod or one of the clones. They're nice, but they're expensive and don't do anything that can't be done with an upper clam shell vise block and 2x4 barrel vise blocks.

Dont pay gunsmiths to do this kind of work. Buy your tools and do it yourself. You'll save money and time in the long run. Plus, if you don't have these basic tools already, you should, and this is an excuse to buy them. And this way, you can work on your own ar any time. Self sufficiency, knowing your weapon, etc.....all good things.

 

[1911ly]

I've done many. I helped a fellow ingo'er a few weeks ago that had issues with aligning his. A vise block is nice to have but it can be done without. It is a DIY job if you can handle turning a wrench.

A adjustable wrench will usually work. Never tighten against the upper receiver. Hold the barrel and the flash hider individually. You will get more leverage and put less stress in the upper. The vise is used to just to steady's the upper. A universal AR tool is the best investment. I like to clamp the barrel in my vise (barrel rapped in a thin brass sheet or copper or even aluminum sheet).

You will need a new crush washer. If you can't get the flash hider to align, don't fear. Just loosen and tighten and repeat until it does. It's called a crush washer for a reason. It will crush enough to align. It might take a half a turn or ten tighten and loosen cycles to get it done. Don't force it to align in one turn if it is turning really hard.

I am in South Bend and I would be glad to help anyone install one that has issues or is afraid they are going to break something. I have the tools. And I'd do it for free, np.

Larry

 

[NyleRN]

Reaction rods belong in the trash. When working on muzzle devices use a barrel vise.

 

[athyen]

Reaction rods belong in the trash. When working on muzzle devices use a barrel vise.

Why do you say this about reaction rods?

 

[NyleRN]

Reaction rods have been guilty several times over for spinning off barrel extensions. That's why they make barrel vises. You run no risk of sheering off your index pin or loosening the barrel extension while installing a muzzle device or breaking it free

 

[1911ly]

Why do you say this about reaction rods?

Reaction rods hold the barrel by the bolt locking lugs on the barrel extension. You can ruin a barrel by putting all the pressure on the barrel extension. Just not an ideal situation. I would not do it. That is one of the reasons I mentioned clamping on the barrel. Using a barrel vise as he mentions is the ideal way. I've done it my way many times but the barrel vise is the ideal way.

 

[athyen]

Reaction rods have been guilty several times over for spinning off barrel extensions. That's why they make barrel vises. You run no risk of sheering off your index pin or loosening the barrel extension while installing a muzzle device or breaking it free

Reaction rods hold the barrel by the bolt locking lugs on the barrel extension. You can ruin a barrel by putting all the pressure on the barrel extension. Just not an ideal situation. I would not do it. That is one of the reasons I mentioned clamping on the barrel. Using a barrel vise as he mentions is the ideal way. I've done it my way many times but the barrel vise is the ideal way.

Wow, I was under the impression that reaction rods were the way to go... I've obviously been very wrong on that! Might explain issues I had with the locating pins bending on a few barrels I installed... I will invest in a barrel vice!

 

[phylodog]

I use my reaction rod for installing but not removing. If the barrel extension was torqued properly to 155ft lbs it shouldn't be an issue to remove a muzzle device with the reaction rod. Unfortunately it isn't always installed correctly.

 

[mammynun]

I use a reaction rod for my builds and haven't had any problems. Then again, I use flash hiders that don't need to be timed and I know that I used Rocksett and not "red" Loctite. I keep the torque on my barrel nuts towards the low end of the spec, and I know they had Aeroshell applied to them during assembly.

I thinks a reaction rod is a great tool to properly assemble and AR, and to take apart an AR that was properly assembled.

 

[sig1473]

My Reaction Rod will never go in the trash and if anybody wants to get rid of theirs I will pay for the shipping. A FH doesn't require more than 30lbs/ft torque. If you are loosening your barrel extension by using the Reaction Rod then you bought a garbage upper/barrel to begin with. I have both a Clamshell and Reaction Rod so I have experience with both. I've built 2 uppers with the Reaction Rod within the past 2 months and it has replaced the clamshell. I go off my own personal experience with ARs rather than what I've read over on BARF.com. YMMV

 

[Psode27]

I just got a knockoff reaction rod and kinda fell in love with it. I have the clamshell deal too, but it would scratch up the receiver a bit sometimes (its an M1 sales deal, could be because of that). I picked up the rod for about 40$, and it holds everything really well, and I can't see myself screwing up an extension under normal use. Not saying it can't happen, just I don't see it being an issue. If I have to get crazy on something I'll use a barrel vise, but it tends to scratch up barrels too a little. Not a huge deal I realize, but not what I want to happen to a new or freshly painted part .

 

[17 squirrel]

Adjustable Wrench ????

 

[KG1]

Adjustable Wrench ????

Yes and a big hammer.

 

[seedubs1]

Beaker bars, torches, and loctite.....lots of loctite.

 

[6mm Shoot]

I guess I have been doing it wrong. I get the spacer shims to get the flash hider close (like a 1/8 of a turn) than torqued it down while in the vice held by the clam shell thing. I don't use Loctite and I have never had one come loose. Oh well, live and learn.

 

[seedubs1]

Different ways to skin a cat. I've had them be WAY off before (need 350 deg. turn once snugged up). I used a diamond hone to remove some material from the crush washer on that particular one. Honed it back until it'd need about 1/8 turn to clock it properly. Worked fine.

I guess I have been doing it wrong. I get the spacer shims to get the flash hider close (like a 1/8 of a turn) than torqued it down while in the vice held by the clam shell thing. I don't use Loctite and I have never had one come loose. Oh well, live and learn.