Painting the stock on my 597

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  • U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    it will still stick to plastic. light coat is all you need. actually you dont really need to primer. i do it just to give me a lighter colored stock to start with. if painting over black it ususally takes a lot of coats of paint.

    Do you have any experience with a gray stock? That's what I have on my 597.
     

    Zoub

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    May 8, 2008
    5,220
    48
    Northern Edge, WI
    opps sorry I may have used the wrong shade of purple...
    I was more referring to what some people are posting about your flashlight attachment... I myself am also in the maintenance bussiness and feel the same way!
    Holy Cow BATMAN! Hipoints and homemade flashlight mounts in the same thread. :n00b: I would negative rep you but I don't do that stupid crap, it is for weenies. I don't positive rep either

    To the OP you don't need to rough the stock but you should use the primer. One coat will be enough better to do two light coats. Not sure what look you want but you can sand the primer etc...your call.

    You should go ahead and free float the barrel. Simply put you should be able to run a dollar bill under your barrel from side to side the entire length when the stock is on it. You will see where the stock comes in to contact with the barrel, trim all that down. No need to paint inside the stock, if you do allow for the paint layers when you shave the stock, especially along the top edges.

    Krylon will chip and show wear but it does a good job. If you want to toughen it up, spray it with clear enamel after it has cured for a day or two.

    If you mount a flashlight on it, it should be at 10 or 2 :D
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Holy Cow BATMAN! Hipoints and homemade flashlight mounts in the same thread. :n00b: I would negative rep you but I don't do that stupid crap, it is for weenies. I don't positive rep either

    To the OP you don't need to rough the stock but you should use the primer. One coat will be enough better to do two light coats. Not sure what look you want but you can sand the primer etc...your call.

    You should go ahead and free float the barrel. Simply put you should be able to run a dollar bill under your barrel from side to side the entire length when the stock is on it. You will see where the stock comes in to contact with the barrel, trim all that down. No need to paint inside the stock, if you do allow for the paint layers when you shave the stock, especially along the top edges.

    Krylon will chip and show wear but it does a good job. If you want to toughen it up, spray it with clear enamel after it has cured for a day or two.

    If you mount a flashlight on it, it should be at 10 or 2 :D

    Wont the clear coat give it a shiny appearance? I really want a dull look!
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Ok got my supplies today. Primer, clear coat, and paint. Do to lack of color choices, I'm going in a different direction. I will post pics of my progress. I have no garage, so I heading to my parents to start. Hopefully I will at least get it primed today. Then hopefully get the color on tomorrow.
     

    ddewyse

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Oct 12, 2009
    61
    8
    North Central Indiana
    Good luck on the project. Please post pics along the way. I am like you - I need to have winter projects to keep my sanity and there are none better than "tweaking" the gun selection before summer so when it comes I am ready to do some blasting.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Ok primer is on just waiting for it to dry, so I can get it sanded. I'll post a pic once I have the primer sanded, to where I want it to be. Going to use some 320 grit to get it smooth. I bought Krylon spray primer, and was not to pleased with it. Even with shaking the can frequently, it ran more then I wished it would have. Just means more sanding. Hopefully I can start getting some color on it today. So far so good, this is my first paint job. So well see how it comes out. Hopefully good, because I have some more rifles to do, after I am able to test the durability of the paint.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Ok, well the primer was a complete fail. Came out smooth in some areas, and clumpy in others. Tried to sand it, but it would not sand worth a crap. So started the painting process. I have one side painted, will have the other side done tomorrow. Then I'll just have to clear it. You can some clumps, but it's a $130 test rifle. Lessons learned, if I do another rifle I'm going to brush the primer on. All in all it was a good learning experience, and something to keep me from going stir crazy! Will post pics, when it's complete!
     

    Andre46996

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Jan 3, 2010
    2,246
    36
    Hammond
    OK...

    STOP!!!! SLOW DOWN!!!

    You are rushing it!!!!

    First when you are painting less is more.

    Many light coats work better then a few heavy coats, with the amount of humidity in the air your first coat of primer should have been almost translucent.

    Second.

    Just because it is dry does NOT mean it is sandable yet.

    Let it cure at least 12 hours!!!

    Block sand it, now is when you will find all problem areas. You can use automotive glaze to fix slight nicks, dings, scratches.
    Let the Glazing putty dry 12 hours.
    Resand it.
    Reprime it.
    Wet sand it.

    Shoot it with you base color(normally the lightest color).
    Let that dry at least 12 hours.
    Wet sand it.

    Shoot your other colors.
    Let it dry at least 12 hours.
    Wet sand it.

    Shoot it with a Matte or Low Gloss Clear.
    Let it dry at least 12 hours.

    Wet sand it if it is not glass smooth.

    Use automotive polishing compound on it after a week.

    Use a good Carnuba wax on it after you polish it out.

    I promise you it will look beautiful when you done.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Thing is, I used lite coats of primer. Still in some areas it was clunky, and some areas it was smooth. That's why from now on, I'm going to brush it. That way I have better control. The painting part is going really well.
     

    zoglog

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    56   0   0
    Sep 20, 2009
    1,325
    48
    Hendricks Co
    The first items I painted were AR mags with bedliner. They turned out great, but I got some runs (not me, the magazines). When I painted my ak22 I made sure to use super light coats and kept the can further back. I also picked up a rattle can grip like this >>[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Rustoleum-243546-Rust-Oleum-Spray-Grip/dp/B000DZFE44]Amazon.com: Rust-Oleum Spray Grip: Home Improvement[/ame]<< It made it much easier.

    I am sure yours will look fine. Like you said it was your first and the next one will be even better!
     

    45CalJoe

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 14, 2009
    46
    8
    Brownsburg, IN
    What a coincidence, I just painted my 597 stock yesterday. Went to walmart, picked up a can of the Krylon made for plastic in black and a variety pack of sandpaper.

    After reading the paint can, I passed on priming/sanding the stock and just hit it with a very light coat, and it came out great. I'm leaving it as is. I ended up using the sandpaper to attempt to 'float' the barrel out of the stock.

    In all honesty, I was expecting to botch this job up bigtime, but after looking over it again this morning atfer I woke up, I'm very shocked how well it came out.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Well I got the color on. I'm going to try wet sanding it a bit, to see if I can get some of the clumps smoothed out. I borrowed some sandpaper from work. Hopefully I can get it smoothed out, touch the color up, clear it and be done. Next time though, I will be brushing the primer on for sure!
     

    Dog1

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    36   0   0
    Feb 15, 2010
    2,761
    113
    Clark County, Indiana
    I did this to 2 Savages I have. One is a 7mm RM and the other is a .223.

    Automotive primer underneath. Krylon Military Tan and OD green. I used Blue Painter's tape for camo. I drew them free hand and cut them out.

    Tan on first, let dry. Stuck on the camo stencils, shot the OD on. Removed. let dry then clear coat flat over top.

    img0485.jpg
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Well I have ran into some issues. So I'm going to sand it down, and start over fresh. I'm not going to use primer this time, because my base color is black. I got some 100% pure alcohol wipes, for cleaning printer heads from work. Recommended by a guy that uses them when he paints stocks. Talked to a couple of guys at work, and as I figured they said the primer did not ad hear properly do to oils from my skin etc. I did clean it, but obviously not good enough. So I have some sanding ahead of me. Oh well gives me something to do, and I'm a little OCD. It would have annoyed me looking at a half *** job eventually. Hopefully I can get most of it sanded today!
     

    mwilson

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Apr 13, 2009
    576
    16
    franklin
    i use wax and grease remover before painting. available at automotive stores that sell paint. generic brands run about 8.00 a gallon. do not get the name brands like dupont or shermin williams as you will pay around 30.00 a gallon. cheaper stuff works just as good. its all i use before painting cars. you are right about oils on your hands screwing up a paint job. you should see what armor all does to a paint job:xmad:.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    i use wax and grease remover before painting. available at automotive stores that sell paint. generic brands run about 8.00 a gallon. do not get the name brands like dupont or shermin williams as you will pay around 30.00 a gallon. cheaper stuff works just as good. its all i use before painting cars. you are right about oils on your hands screwing up a paint job. you should see what armor all does to a paint job:xmad:.

    Wel I got 3/4's of it sanded today. Used some 80 grit, then I'm going to follow with some 320 grit just to make sure everything is smooth. Then i'm going to clean the crap out of it with the alcohol. So far so good! Before I lay my base coat.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 87.5%
    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
    9,815
    38
    Columbus
    Well I got it all sanded down. Sprayed the base color on one side. Just waiting for it to dry, so I can spray the other side with the base color. I'll post a pic, one I have the base coat sprayed.
     
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