Question on reloading workflow

[loudgroove]

I just acquired A Lee 3 Turret Press w/ 38 Special and 30-06 dies (both a 3-die set), Modern Reloading by Richard lee (first edition), and a Lyman case trimmer. All of this came from a friend that wanted to get into reloading that got it from another friend that had passed away. It was collecting dust so he gave it to me. I also just ordered the 2nd addition of Modern Reloading, the pilot set that was missing from the trimmer. And a 4 Die set in 9 mm. I have spent the last few days studding the book and spending many hours on what I call YouTube University. So it is my understanding that after a few reloads the brass can lengthen, I also caught on a couple of videos that the brass can also lengthen after going thru the resizing/ de primmer die. Is the trimmer something you need to go back to before you seat the Bullet?

Also it's my understanding that .001 is the tolerance to stay within. Where some even trim .001 short. The brass in most of the videos looks to be new. And I have been unable to find a video that goes completely thru the process from picking up the spent brass to going back to the range. I was just wondering what everyone's workflow is. I feel like I am somewhat getting a grasp on this process. But I still need more schooling to make sure I am not getting off track. Thanks in advance.

 

[Creedmoor]

I just acquired A Lee 3 Turret Press w/ 38 Special and 30-06 dies (both a 3-die set), Modern Reloading by Richard lee (first edition), and a Lyman case trimmer. All of this came from a friend that wanted to get into reloading that got it from another friend that had passed away. It was collecting dust so he gave it to me. I also just ordered the 2nd addition of Modern Reloading, the pilot set that was missing from the trimmer. And a 4 Die set in 9 mm. I have spent the last few days studding the book and spending many hours on what I call YouTube University. So it is my understanding that after a few reloads the brass can lengthen, I also caught on a couple of videos that the brass can also lengthen after going thru the resizing/ de primmer die. Is the trimmer something you need to go back to before you seat the Bullet?

Also it's my understanding that .001 is the tolerance to stay within. Where some even trim .001 short. The brass in most of the videos looks to be new. And I have been unable to find a video that goes completely thru the process from picking up the spent brass to going back to the range. I was just wondering what everyone's workflow is. I feel like I am somewhat getting a grasp on this process. But I still need more schooling to make sure I am not getting off track. Thanks in advance.

When I walk into my shop I put on safety glasses. I swear to god.

I dry tumble all brass, rifle brass in 5.56 and 7.62 and 9mm I process.
It gets deprimed, swedged and small base sized if one is available and run through a ring roller.
It gets run through a trimmer and I anneal it.
It gets a final tumble, and then loaded, gauged and packaged.

I'm not sure how the Lee is set up to run??
As a new reloader I would use your press as a single or two holer press until you get a good grasp with the process.
#1 Lube cases and size and deprime. Tumble if you have one.
#2 flair cases if required.
#3 prime cases
#4 drop powder and seat bullet
#5 Taper crimp, gauge and package.

Have fun, ask questions and be safe.





Never have I trimmed 9mm brass.
Handgun and other brass gets dry tumbled and then loaded and crimped with a taper crimp and then a final polish, gauged and packaged.

With a 3 station this is what I would do.
1# I would size/deprime and flair my cases.
2# Tumble if you have one, check for clear primer pockets.
3# Set up 3 station to seat primers, then seat bullets without a crimp and then taper crimp.
Last run through a Gauge to check them all.

 

[loudgroove]

When I walk into my shop I put on safety glasses. I swear to god.

I dry tumble all brass, rifle brass in 5.56 and 7.62 and 9mm I process.
It gets deprimed, swedged and small base sized if one is available and run through a ring roller.
It gets run through a trimmer and I anneal it.
It gets a final tumble, and then loaded, gauged and packaged.

I'm not sure how the Lee is set up to run??
As a new reloader I would use your press as a single or two holer press until you get a good grasp with the process.
#1 Lube cases and size and deprime. Tumble if you have one.
#2 flair cases if required.
#3 prime cases
#4 drop powder and seat bullet
#5 Taper crimp, gauge and package.

Have fun, ask questions and be safe.





Never have I trimmed 9mm brass.
Handgun and other brass gets dry tumbled and then loaded and crimped with a taper crimp and then a final polish, gauged and packaged.

With a 3 station this is what I would do.
1# I would size/deprime and flair my cases.
2# Tumble if you have one, check for clear primer pockets.
3# Set up 3 station to seat primers, then seat bullets without a crimp and then taper crimp.
Last run through a Gauge to check them all.

Thanks for the reply and the laugh about putting on your safety glasses first. lol I must admit you used some terms that I haven't heard since a machine tool class I took in Vocational school back in the day. Sounds like you reload AR platform ammo to military specs. I'm very curious about the swedging, the ring roller and annealing. None of that has shown up in my research so far. And safety is my biggest concern. It's why I am trying to understand most of it before getting my hands dirty. Thanks again

 

[spencer rifle]

I never swage, roller or anneal any of my brass and it works just fine. But YMMV, and those steps would likely be valuable in the process. I have never owned a single stage press, and went straight to turret after reading the Lee reloading book. I don't deprime separately, but I can see how that would be a good activity while watching TV or something. The main problem area seems to be priming, like when a primer flips and causes issues, up to and including primer ignition. It's then you are thankful for ear protection.

 

[Aszerigan]

When I walk into my shop I put on safety glasses.

Amateur !

Benefit of being blind - I wear them all day anyway.

 

[Creedmoor]

I never swage, roller or anneal any of my brass and it works just fine. But YMMV, and those steps would likely be valuable in the process. I have never owned a single stage press, and went straight to turret after reading the Lee reloading book. I don't deprime separately, but I can see how that would be a good activity while watching TV or something. The main problem area seems to be priming, like when a primer flips and causes issues, up to and including primer ignition. It's then you are thankful for ear protection.

So you dont load any mil crimped brass?
If I had "primer ignition" I would be more concerned with my vision than my hearing.

 

[loudgroove]

I never swage, roller or anneal any of my brass and it works just fine. But YMMV, and those steps would likely be valuable in the process. I have never owned a single stage press, and went straight to turret after reading the Lee reloading book. I don't deprime separately, but I can see how that would be a good activity while watching TV or something. The main problem area seems to be priming, like when a primer flips and causes issues, up to and including primer ignition. It's then you are thankful for ear protection.

Didn't think about ear protection. I also work in audio and wear them a lot elsewhere. you only get 1 set of ears.

 

[spencer rifle]

So you dont load any mil crimped brass?
If I had "primer ignition" I would be more concerned with my vision than my hearing.

I always have safety glasses. And I rarely encounter military crimped brass, which was more of a problem when I reloaded Berdan 7.62x39 brass.

 

[Creedmoor]

I always have safety glasses. And I rarely encounter military crimped brass, which was more of a problem when I reloaded Berdan 7.62x39 brass.

Good, most don't wear them.
We did the Berdan thing when boxer 54R was really hard to find.

 

[Whip_McCord]

Never have I trimmed 9mm brass.
Handgun and other brass gets dry tumbled and then loaded and crimped with a taper crimp and then a final polish, gauged and packaged.

With a 3 station this is what I would do.
1# I would size/deprime and flair my cases.
2# Tumble if you have one, check for clear primer pockets.
3# Set up 3 station to seat primers, then seat bullets without a crimp and then taper crimp.
Last run through a Gauge to check them all.

I have never trimmed any straight-walled handgun cases. No need. In fact, some actually get shorter, the more they are reloaded.

I assume your 38 special is a revolver. No need for a gauge for that. Just see if they fit in the gun's cylinder. The only time I check mine is when I'm going to a match. Most of the revolvers I shoot use moonclips, so after I load the moonclips I make sure the rounds fit in my gun and the cylinder turns easily.

 

[Creedmoor]

Thanks for the reply and the laugh about putting on your safety glasses first. lol I must admit you used some terms that I haven't heard since a machine tool class I took in Vocational school back in the day. Sounds like you reload AR platform ammo to military specs. I'm very curious about the swedging, the ring roller and annealing. None of that has shown up in my research so far. And safety is my biggest concern. It's why I am trying to understand most of it before getting my hands dirty. Thanks again

I used to use a hand Dillon primer pocket swedger like this

Super Swage 600

Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case is supported from the inside, so you won't be tearing...

www.dillonprecision.com

Then I bough a Big Dillon Press from another member here, it swedges the crimp out in one of the stages. It de-primes and the next station swedges the primer pocket.

A ring roller takes the little smile out of pistol cases that have been shot in a pistol that has a unsupported barrel like the old Glock 40 cal 10mm and 9mm pistols and the Canadian Para Ordnance 9mm and 49 pistols along with a few others out there.





If you as a new small reloader if you find a bunch or have a pistol that does this Lee offers a cheap option with a push through die that will get ride of the smile with you press for $20.00

Lee Precision, Inc.. Bulge Buster Kit

Lee Bulge Buster Kit and appropriate Lee Factory Crimp assures your mixed brass is bulge free. This push through die adapter will quickly remove the annoying bulge rings that shell holder constrained dies simply can't reach.

leeprecision.com

 

[Creedmoor]

I have never trimmed any straight-walled handgun cases. No need. In fact, some actually get shorter, the more they are reloaded.

I assume your 38 special is a revolver. No need for a gauge for that. Just see if they fit in the gun's cylinder. The only time I check mine is when I'm going to a match. Most of the revolvers I shoot use moonclips, so after I load the moonclips I make sure the rounds fit in my gun and the cylinder turns easily.

Nope, my 38 wadcutters are loaded for a few old Gold Cups and S&W mod 52 automatics.
38 Special Bullseye pistols. And yea, Imagine feeding a wad cutter reliably in a automatic, they are anal with what works in them.
They get a taper crimp and then they get gauged.
Heres a pic of the Colt Magazine, lol

 

[BE Mike]

Bottle necked rifle cases should be trimmed to minimum length after they are resized. No need to trim any straight walled handgun brass cases. I have never used a roller on any brass. I taper crimp, as a separate operation, my auto pistol brass. I roll crimp as a separate operation, my revolver brass, except for .38 SPL wadcutters that I use in autos. I taper crimp them and then add a slight roll crimp. I've been reloading mostly .38 SPL, .45 ACP and 9mm Luger cartridges, but also load .44 Mag., .30-06 and .223. I also load some 12 g. shotshells, but that is a different animal that takes different equipment and components. Be careful when picking up range brass from outdoor ranges. You need to inspect it carefully. Be patient, be alert and load only when you are not distracted by a tv, kids, etc. Follow the manuals. It is satisfying, to me, to shoot ammo that I loaded myself.

 

[loudgroove]

I have never trimmed any straight-walled handgun cases. No need. In fact, some actually get shorter, the more they are reloaded.

I assume your 38 special is a revolver. No need for a gauge for that. Just see if they fit in the gun's cylinder. The only time I check mine is when I'm going to a match. Most of the revolvers I shoot use moonclips, so after I load the moonclips I make sure the rounds fit in my gun and the cylinder turns easily.

I have a 38 that I bought for the ol lady to use when I was gone on the road a lot. This gun is too small for my hands, so I don't enjoy firing it. I also have a short barrel 357 that's mainly used as a pocket gun. The main calibers I use often are 9, 40 and 45. All Mag fed. Thanks for your info, but is there anything you can do if the brass is too short?

 

[loudgroove]

I used to use a hand Dillon primer pocket swedger like this

Super Swage 600

Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case is supported from the inside, so you won't be tearing...

www.dillonprecision.com

Then I bough a Big Dillon Press from another member here, it swedges the crimp out in one of the stages. It de-primes and the next station swedges the primer pocket.

A ring roller takes the little smile out of pistol cases that have been shot in a pistol that has a unsupported barrel like the old Glock 40 cal 10mm and 9mm pistols and the Canadian Para Ordnance 9mm and 49 pistols along with a few others out there.

View attachment 308323



If you as a new small reloader if you find a bunch or have a pistol that does this Lee offers a cheap option with a push through die that will get ride of the smile with you press for $20.00

Lee Precision, Inc.. Bulge Buster Kit

Lee Bulge Buster Kit and appropriate Lee Factory Crimp assures your mixed brass is bulge free. This push through die adapter will quickly remove the annoying bulge rings that shell holder constrained dies simply can't reach.

leeprecision.com

Wow thats very interesting, Thanks for sharing that. What about the annealing?

 

[loudgroove]

Bottle necked rifle cases should be trimmed to minimum length after they are resized. No need to trim any straight walled handgun brass cases. I have never used a roller on any brass. I taper crimp, as a separate operation, my auto pistol brass. I roll crimp as a separate operation, my revolver brass, except for .38 SPL wadcutters that I use in autos. I taper crimp them and then add a slight roll crimp. I've been reloading mostly .38 SPL, .45 ACP and 9mm Luger cartridges, but also load .44 Mag., .30-06 and .223. I also load some 12 g. shotshells, but that is a different animal that takes different equipment and components. Be careful when picking up range brass from outdoor ranges. You need to inspect it carefully. Be patient, be alert and load only when you are not distracted by a tv, kids, etc. Follow the manuals. It is satisfying, to me, to shoot ammo that I loaded myself.

Sound advice. What kind of dies do you use for roll crimp and taper crimp? what's the advantages of both?

 

[Creedmoor]

I have a 38 that I bought for the ol lady to use when I was gone on the road a lot. This gun is too small for my hands, so I don't enjoy firing it. I also have a short barrel 357 that's mainly used as a pocket gun. The main calibers I use often are 9, 40 and 45. All Mag fed. Thanks for your info, but is there anything you can do if the brass is too short?

in 9,40 and 45... Load it.

 

[Creedmoor]

Wow thats very interesting, Thanks for sharing that. What about the annealing?

I anneal rifle brass, most range stuff just get done each time through.
I say that with range pick up gets tossed in with the range brass we were shooting that day. so it all gets run through being processed.
Quality ammo gets annealed every two or three loading's.

I use an Anneeleez, I've been very happy with it.
This is the machine I have, A gen 1 model. I like it for one reason I can set it up, load it up and run it, then walk away. When I hear its not running I fill it up again and go do something else while its running. It was under 300 bucks and it just works well.
The repeatability with using an automated machine just can't be beat.

 

[loudgroove]

I anneal rifle brass, most range stuff just get done each time through.
I say that with range pick up gets tossed in with the range brass we were shooting that day. so it all gets run through being processed.
Quality ammo gets annealed every two or three loading's.

I use an Anneeleez, I've been very happy with it.
This is the machine I have, A gen 1 model. I like it for one reason I can set it up, load it up and run it, then walk away. When I hear its not running I fill it up again and go do something else while its running. It was under 300 bucks and it just works well.
The repeatability with using an automated machine just can't be beat.

Wow!! Thanks again for sharing.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

I never swage, roller or anneal any of my brass and it works just fine. But YMMV, and those steps would likely be valuable in the process. I have never owned a single stage press, and went straight to turret after reading the Lee reloading book. I don't deprime separately, but I can see how that would be a good activity while watching TV or something. The main problem area seems to be priming, like when a primer flips and causes issues, up to and including primer ignition. It's then you are thankful for ear protection.

I have a universal de-capping die, which I use on a single stage press. I have a hand priming tool and that's what I use while watching TV. Obviously I'm not reloading 1000's of rounds at a time though. I also swage by hand, but only for milsurp brass. Not an issue with commercial.