Question on reloading workflow

[loudgroove]

Whip_McCord has it right. Not all rifle reloading tips transfer to pistol. The most important component of loading accurate rounds for pistol shooting is the quality of the bullet and then finding out what powder combo works best with it. I always "stole" proven reliable and accurate pistol loads from other generous reloaders. One other thing to consider is what each shooter's idea of accuracy is. Most folks can pretty much throw together safe loads that will function in their handguns and be satisfied that they shoot into one hole at 10 yards, while competitive shooters, especially bullseye pistol shooters would, only be somewhat happy with loads that will function reliably and shoot under 3" ten shot groups at 50 yards.

I was thinking most didn't transfer. I'm also guessing there's minor difference with different calibers as well.

 

[cavallo]

I used to use a hand Dillon primer pocket swedger like this

Super Swage 600

Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case is supported from the inside, so you won't be tearing...

www.dillonprecision.com

Then I bough a Big Dillon Press from another member here, it swedges the crimp out in one of the stages. It de-primes and the next station swedges the primer pocket.

A ring roller takes the little smile out of pistol cases that have been shot in a pistol that has a unsupported barrel like the old Glock 40 cal 10mm and 9mm pistols and the Canadian Para Ordnance 9mm and 49 pistols along with a few others out there.

View attachment 308323



If you as a new small reloader if you find a bunch or have a pistol that does this Lee offers a cheap option with a push through die that will get ride of the smile with you press for $20.00

Lee Precision, Inc.. Bulge Buster Kit

Lee Bulge Buster Kit and appropriate Lee Factory Crimp assures your mixed brass is bulge free. This push through die adapter will quickly remove the annoying bulge rings that shell holder constrained dies simply can't reach.

leeprecision.com

I noticed that OP referenced 38 Special. Just guessing but I doubt that 38sp had military crimp brass so likely no need for swaging.

Glock smile/bulge would also not apply to 38Special.

 

[Whip_McCord]

It looks like you have a good manual for reloading. Get Lee's 2nd edition as you planned but also get Lyman's loading manual (I like that one the best) and maybe one or two more, relating to the bullets or powder you plan to use.

The most important info in those manuals is not the load data. It is the beginning portion of the manuals that talk about the steps of reloading and various important aspects you should know. Read all those manuals to get the steps down and also the other idiosyncrasies of reloading. That's the best advice for learning the basics and beyond.

 

[loudgroove]

It looks like you have a good manual for reloading. Get Lee's 2nd edition as you planned but also get Lyman's loading manual (I like that one the best) and maybe one or two more, relating to the bullets or powder you plan to use.

The most important info in those manuals is not the load data. It is the beginning portion of the manuals that talk about the steps of reloading and various important aspects you should know. Read all those manuals to get the steps down and also the other idiosyncrasies of reloading. That's the best advice for learning the basics and beyond.

The 2nd addition should be here today. And I'll look for the Lyman, but will next week before I can order it. Sound advice, many thanks to you.

 

[Whip_McCord]

The 2nd addition should be here today. And I'll look for the Lyman, but will next week before I can order it. Sound advice, many thanks to you.

When one of my buddies got started reloading about 10 years ago, the guy teaching him gave him a reloading manual and told him to read it. When he was done, he was given another manual and told to read that one. That may have happened one more time. My buddy said that was the best advise he got. There is a lot of good info in there that most people skip over. They think the load data is the important part.

 

[Creedmoor]

I noticed that OP referenced 38 Special. Just guessing but I doubt that 38sp had military crimp brass so likely no need for swaging.

Glock smile/bulge would also not apply to 38Special.

Well, Win, Fed and Remington loaded crimped 38 Special for Uncle Sam in the 60's and 70's. It on occasion pops up.

 

[crewchief888]

It looks like you have a good manual for reloading. Get Lee's 2nd edition as you planned but also get Lyman's loading manual (I like that one the best) and maybe one or two more, relating to the bullets or powder you plan to use.

The most important info in those manuals is not the load data. It is the beginning portion of the manuals that talk about the steps of reloading and various important aspects you should know. Read all those manuals to get the steps down and also the other idiosyncrasies of reloading. That's the best advice for learning the basics and beyond.

i read through a lyman manual before i started reloading many years ago, ive never reloaded any rifle cartriges, only pistol on a dillon progressive

 

[loudgroove]

When one of my buddies got started reloading about 10 years ago, the guy teaching him gave him a reloading manual and told him to read it. When he was done, he was given another manual and told to read that one. That may have happened one more time. My buddy said that was the best advise he got. There is a lot of good info in there that most people skip over. They think the load data is the important part.

That kinda reminds me of when I started brewing beer. When I started brewing with other people and got their perspective on it. That opened up a whole new world of brewing. So I get the reading a different book on things. Take someone's trick and combine it with someone else's trick, then you have a whole new trick to call your own. At the end of the day, most things in life are 50% science 50% art.

 

[loudgroove]

What's everyone's opinion on Accurate No. 2 and 7 powders? I am thinking of using 124 grain XTP bullets in 9mm. I'm leaning more on No. 7 because in the loading manual it has a wider range between the starting grains and the never exceed grains. Seems to me that can be a fine tune factor. And what's your experiences with these two powders?

 

[billybob44]

What's everyone's opinion on Accurate No. 2 and 7 powders? I am thinking of using 124 grain XTP bullets in 9mm. I'm leaning more on No. 7 because in the loading manual it has a wider range between the starting grains and the never exceed grains. Seems to me that can be a fine tune factor. And what's your experiences with these two powders?

FWIW, AA-#2 is a VERY FAST powder that does NOT take up much space in your case=Very possible to Double or even Tripple charge a load==VERY Dangerous, especially for a new handloader.
AA#2 is useful for light .38 Spl. target loads and some other applications, but not too much for 9MM.
AA-#7 (And #5 for that matter) are very useful for your 9MM loads.
This information IS worth what you paid for it...HA. HA.....Bill.

 

[loudgroove]

FWIW, AA-#2 is a VERY FAST powder that does NOT take up much space in your case=Very possible to Double or even Tripple charge a load==VERY Dangerous, especially for a new handloader.
AA#2 is useful for light .38 Spl. target loads and some other applications, but not too much for 9MM.
AA-#7 (And #5 for that matter) are very useful for your 9MM loads.
This information IS worth what you paid for it...HA. HA.....Bill.

I'll have to read up more on #5. Thanks for the free info lol

 

[indyblue]

I have and have read Lyman 50th edition and the Speer book. Also readers digest reloading handbook, and the ABCs of reloading.

I am now testing some 9mm loads with 124gr XTP’s with 4.1gr W231. I found out I have to seat them less than 1.095 or the bullet touches the lands in the CZ 75 PCR. W231 fills the case near half so not easy to overcharge without noticing.

 

[loudgroove]

I have and have read Lyman 50th edition and the Speer book. Also readers digest reloading handbook, and the ABCs of reloading.

I am now testing some 9mm loads with 124gr XTP’s with 4.1gr W231. I found out I have to seat them less than 1.095 or the bullet touches the lands in the CZ 75 PCR. W231 fills the case near half so not easy to overcharge without noticing.

The previous owner of my press had a few older Accurate reloading manuals. Thats why I was only looking at their powder. The W231 makes this world a little bigger and interesting. Thanks!

 

[BE Mike]

Winchester 231, HP-38 and Bullseye are all good choices for loading target loads in your .38 Special and 9mm if you are wanting ammo for range shooting. Unique is also good for target loads and can be loaded up for hotter loads. Accurate No. 2 is good for target loads as well. Accurate No. 5 is good for target loads and can be used for hotter loads as well. I've loaded rounds with all of them. I've used Alliant Bullseye MUCH MORE and currently use it to load my 9mm and .45 ACP where I load coated lead bullets.

 

[Whip_McCord]

What's everyone's opinion on Accurate No. 2 and 7 powders? I am thinking of using 124 grain XTP bullets in 9mm. I'm leaning more on No. 7 because in the loading manual it has a wider range between the starting grains and the never exceed grains. Seems to me that can be a fine tune factor. And what's your experiences with these two powders?

AA#7 is similar to Blue Dot and is recomended for 9mm, although I have never tried that powder.

I did try AA#2 in target loads for 38 Special and 45 ACP. I did not like that powder. It left lots of burnt and unburnt powder residue in my guns. In the revolvers, the residue got under the star and I could not cloes the cylinder. In the 45 there was just a lot of powder residue. I do not recall the issues that caused, but a freind had the same problem in his 45s using AA#2. For a fast pistol powder I use Clays. It is great for light target loads in many pistol and revolver cartridges and I also use it for 12 gauge loads.

 

[Whip_McCord]

I'll have to read up more on #5. Thanks for the free info lol

I like AA#5 a lot. It is great for medium pistol/revolver loads. I also have a great 30-30 load; 10gr AA#5 w/ 165gr cast bullet @ 1400fps. Shoots great out to 150 yards. I also use 10gr AA#5 w/ 240gr lead bullet in my 44 mag. This travels at 1050fps. It is great out to 100 yards and I used it very often in IHMSA Field Pistol matches out of my Redhawk.

I like three speed ranges of pistol powders. I have tried many others, but I use those listed in BOLD. My list is far from complete and there are some good powders in between the speeds I have listed. If you stick with one (maybe two) powders in each speed range, you can reduce the powders you need and still load any pistol cartridge. Of course, there my be some outliers that may require a specialty powder, but most will be covered.

• Fast - Light Target Loads
  • Clays
  • Red Dot
  • Bullseye
  • Nitro 100
  • Titewad
• Medium - Medium Speed Loads
  • AA#5
  • WSF
  • Unique
  • Herco
  • Power Pisto;
• Slow - Magnum Loads
  • AA#9
  • 2400
  • 296/H110

 

[BE Mike]

I like AA#5 a lot. It is great for medium pistol/revolver loads. I also have a great 30-30 load; 10gr AA#5 w/ 165gr cast bullet @ 1400fps. Shoots great out to 150 yards. I also use 10gr AA#5 w/ 240gr lead bullet in my 44 mag. This travels at 1050fps. It is great out to 100 yards and I used it very often in IHMSA Field Pistol matches out of my Redhawk.

I like three speed ranges of pistol powders. I have tried many others, but I use those listed in BOLD. My list is far from complete and there are some good powders in between the speeds I have listed. If you stick with one (maybe two) powders in each speed range, you can reduce the powders you need and still load any pistol cartridge. Of course, there my be some outliers that may require a specialty powder, but most will be covered.

• Fast - Light Target Loads
  • Clays
  • Red Dot
  • Bullseye
  • Nitro 100
  • Titewad
• Medium - Medium Speed Loads
  • AA#5
  • WSF
  • Unique
  • Herco
  • Power Pisto;
• Slow - Magnum Loads
  • AA#9
  • 2400
  • 296/H110

Unfortunately, Clays hasn't been available for quite some time, along with a lot of other shotgun powders. My local supplier does have Bullseye.

 

[Whip_McCord]

Unfortunately, Clays hasn't been available for quite some time, along with a lot of other shotgun powders. My local supplier does have Bullseye.

After the explosion at the plant that made Clays powder years ago, I started using Clay Dot. Works pretty well. When I was able to get Clays again, I still used Clay Dot for shotgun since it takes much more powder than the light pistol loads. The 12 guage loads with Clay Dot leave some powder residue, but not much. Clays did not leave any, though. I did work up a couple pistol loads with Clay Dot too. It works fine for that too. Try Clay Dot if you can find it.

 

[loudgroove]

Keeping in mind that I'm still very new at reloading. I have never heard of a hollow base bullet before. What's everyone's experience with them?

 

[BE Mike]

Keeping in mind that I'm still very new at reloading. I have never heard of a hollow base bullet before. What's everyone's experience with them?

What most people think of when the hollow base wadcutter is mentioned is the 148 gr. hollow base wadcutter. It is a soft lead (swaged) bullet with a deep hollow cavity in the base. It is designed to spread into the rifling when fired and has a very good reputation for great accuracy. It is loaded to very low velocities. I've shot a lot of factory ammo and my reloads with this bullet over the years in .38 SPL and .357 mag revolvers, as well as, the S&W model 52-1 which was designed to shoot this bullet. I also have fired quite a few Precision Bullets. They are a coated lead swaged (soft) bullet. They have what I would call a cupped base as it doesn't indent very deeply. They are good bullets, but I haven't noticed any improvement in accuracy over coated bullets with a flat or a bevel base. Now for long guns, there are hollow base bullets for "black powder" rifles. They were born in the late 1800's. Some shotgun slugs have a hollow base, as well. Hollow base bullets/ slugs keep the weight forward, which enhances its ability to stabilize in flight.