Remington 1100 Failure to Extract

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OPs bolt binds when he lets it slam home, empty

Not when empty, if I stated that, I'll revise. I've been using empty shells while fiddling with it, but not an empty chamber.

I'll check the carrier latch as mentioned above.

 

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Thanks for all of the input. I'll try to take some pictures and upload later tonight or by the end of the week.

 

[mike trible]

If you are using once fired ammo to run through the action, I would try unfired or fired that has been resized. Sometimes soft brass will expand and bind up by keeping pressure on the bolt face. When you fired the gun have you tried different brands of ammo? What brand of ammo are you using? I would go outside in a safe place, load one new unfired shell in the chamber, let the bolt slam forward all the way closed and then try to unload the gun. I would try this with different brands of ammo. Still have problems I would check the Link, and where the link goes into the Action Tube, make sure the parts are clean and work smooth. Next I would check the Locking Block, Bolt, and Action Bar and make sure they are clean and work smooth with no burrs. And after that the only thing I can say is, maybe there is a reason the last guy sold it. Good Luck!

 

[breakingcontact]

If you are using once fired ammo to run through the action, I would try unfired or fired that has been resized. Sometimes soft brass will expand and bind up by keeping pressure on the bolt face. When you fired the gun have you tried different brands of ammo? What brand of ammo are you using? I would go outside in a safe place, load one new unfired shell in the chamber, let the bolt slam forward all the way closed and then try to unload the gun. I would try this with different brands of ammo. Still have problems I would check the Link, and where the link goes into the Action Tube, make sure the parts are clean and work smooth. Next I would check the Locking Block, Bolt, and Action Bar and make sure they are clean and work smooth with no burrs. And after that the only thing I can say is, maybe there is a reason the last guy sold it. Good Luck!

Yeah i know what you're saying regarding the soft brass and shells being different. Tried several different brands and types at the range with the same results. I ran into issues with 930s and the shell stop digging into some brass.

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Uploading some pix via tapatalk. See how that goes.

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Seems plenty clean

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Trigger assembly

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Trigger assembly

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Bolt

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Barrel extension

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Inside

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Ive really been focusing on the locking block. It seems functional and drops down properly out of the gun and in the gun with no shell in the chamber.

When i chamber a shell (let it slam), the action locks up where i can't move it back just that slight amount to get the locking block to drop.

Here is a weird one that may help. If i remove the o ring, it seems to give the action enough room to move and I can run the action and eject the shell. Im using a proper o ring made for these guns not just a generic one from the hardware store.

Thanks for all of the input. I hope the pictures help you help me.

Let me know if you see anything suspect or out of sorts. The wear on the locking block and barrel extension are smooth, i dont think it is hanging up due to burrs or anything.

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[breakingcontact]

OP, Is your 1100 one of the Magnums? If so lighter dove loads will not cycle due to a heavier action sleeve and 1 gas port vs the standard 2 port. Also don't forget to clean and oil the the action spring for the bolt that extends down into the stock. I added a picture of the standard action sleeve and magnum at the bottom. You'll see the magnum has more "meat" on it.

Got a 1100 magnum dirt cheap one time because "it was broke." The magnums were never designed for light loads, they wont cycle. Put a heavy load in it, it cycles every time. I since put a standard 2 hole gas port deer barrel on it and keep the heavier action sleeve, makes for a fine slug slinger.

1100 Tac 4. Marked 2 3/4"

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[Squirt239]

See my previous post on this thread.

 

[breakingcontact]

See my previous post on this thread.

Right, carrier latch.

Im down to that and the breach return plunger.


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Showing carrier latch

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Thanks for all of the input. I may add checking on the firing pin spring as part of this as well.

Kind of down to 3 items in question.

The prior owner had a junky side saddle on this so I didn't get the proper trigger pins. Ordered them as I don't like sliding the screws in and out. Once I get those in, will do some more trouble shooting and maybe order a couple more small parts as some of you suggested if I can narrow them down as the likely problems. Worst comes to worst, will take it to Highsmith here in town. I'll keep you all updated as I always like to see the resolutions of these things.

 

[Hookeye]

Are your O ring and gas rings put on correctly?
Is there a second O ring stuck in bbl ring?

Sidesaddle and or scope mount screws can be overtightened and bind an action. Even when just barely snugged can change trigger pull quite a bit.
Idea is to loctite em to stay, not crank em down

 

[BGDave]

Try it with the trigger group screws in, but not tight. Just finger tight. Your receiver may be warped from the side saddle being over tightened. You may be able to put a straight edge along the receiver to check it. Ran into this on an 870 once.

I see I was beat by Hookeye.

 

[breakingcontact]

Are your O ring and gas rings put on correctly?
Is there a second O ring stuck in bbl ring?

Sidesaddle and or scope mount screws can be overtightened and bind an action. Even when just barely snugged can change trigger pull quite a bit.
Idea is to loctite em to stay, not crank em down

I don't see an extra o ring but will check with a pick.

Regarding the side saddle i dont think it was on too tight. The screw came out pretty easily but will check to make sure receiver is square. Didn't think of that one.

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