Roofing Options

[wcd]

Thank you sir for your referral. I really do appreciate people speaking highly of us. I have done so many roofs for people on INGO that I forget many that I have done. Hope you and DoggyMomma had a good Christmas.....I don't know about you all, but I have a hard time finding that spirit anymore If it wasnt for the grand daughter, I would probably boycott December.

Spending Christmas just concentrating on enjoying family. There lies the key to a Merry Christmas.

 

[JTKelly]

My rood leaks when it is NOT raining or snowing.

I figure it is a leak in the moisture barrier. Humidity freezes leaking out or the wind blows snow under something it shouldn't. When it is BITTER cold like the last few days and wind like the last few days, THEN it starts warming up and the drip starts. Drip about every 30 seconds to a minute apart. Noticed it about an hour ago. Then it is a search with the spot light on the high ceiling to find the drip and put something under it or move something out from under it. If it stays warm about half way through tomorrow it may stop. Until NEXT time.

Only in the winter when no one is going to work on a roof.

 

[jerrob]

My rood leaks when it is NOT raining or snowing.

I figure it is a leak in the moisture barrier. Humidity freezes leaking out or the wind blows snow under something it shouldn't. When it is BITTER cold like the last few days and wind like the last few days, THEN it starts warming up and the drip starts. Drip about every 30 seconds to a minute apart. Noticed it about an hour ago. Then it is a search with the spot light on the high ceiling to find the drip and put something under it or move something out from under it. If it stays warm about half way through tomorrow it may stop. Until NEXT time.

Only in the winter when no one is going to work on a roof.

It could be an improperly insulated ceiling.
Heat rises into attic space, condensate and freezes. Once the temps rise above freezing, it melts and the dripping begins.
Proper ceiling insulation depth with a vapor barrier in your climate zone is a must, especially in the winter.
Just a possibility to consider and rule out.

 

[duanewade]

We had aocsl roofing contractor put our steel roof on in 2007 and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. We also had a double wide that I had steel roofing put on as we had the always leaking skylights removed and the man that removed them (3 big ones) suggested the steel to make sure there was leakage around the shingles. Cost was about 10-15% over asphalt but the 50 year warranty is priceless.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[BE Mike]

Old shingles get brittle and can blow off in a high wind. I've had that happen before. I couldn't believe the sky high cost of a new roof that I got on my home, due to a hail storm this summer. I'm so grateful that we have home owners insurance. We got shingles, supposedly the best. I doubt that the HOA would approve a metal roof.

 

[CHCRandy]

My rood leaks when it is NOT raining or snowing.

I figure it is a leak in the moisture barrier. Humidity freezes leaking out or the wind blows snow under something it shouldn't. When it is BITTER cold like the last few days and wind like the last few days, THEN it starts warming up and the drip starts. Drip about every 30 seconds to a minute apart. Noticed it about an hour ago. Then it is a search with the spot light on the high ceiling to find the drip and put something under it or move something out from under it. If it stays warm about half way through tomorrow it may stop. Until NEXT time.

Only in the winter when no one is going to work on a roof.

Is it a shingled roof? Does it "leak" same place every time? If you have a humidifier in your home or built in to your HVAC, that could be the cause. I have seen this many times. Check the humidity in your house......you can use this if you don't have one. I have seen 2% be the difference between this happening and not. Dont go below 30%, especially if you have hardwood floors or over about 35%. As outdoor temp changes, humidity should change as well. The colder the outside temp, the lower your humidity should be. For example...at -10 degrees you should have 15-20% humidity, at 20 degrees you should have about 35 or less. Summer time you can go to 50% max, over that you risk mold. Hope this helps!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BestAir-1-...VQj2_S7xAmrEdA3RaehoCC9cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[CHCRandy]

Old shingles get brittle and can blow off in a high wind. I've had that happen before. I couldn't believe the sky high cost of a new roof that I got on my home, due to a hail storm this summer. I'm so grateful that we have home owners insurance. We got shingles, supposedly the best. I doubt that the HOA would approve a metal roof.

Roofs are very expensive anymore.....$300-400 a square is not uncommon. It amazes me. When I started roofing in 1995, we charged $100 a square, materials, labor and dump fees. $33 for material, $33 to tear off and dispose and $33 for labor to install. Today, our materials alone are $150+. Labor has about doubled....tear off has went up about 50%, insurance and expenses....probably up 300% or more since then.

If they put on the best asphalt shingle available.....as long as you don't get hail, your roof will last 25-30 years. And metal gets hail damage as well......so it's not like you lose by going shingles. Some people like metal, some like shingles, some like tile and others like wood shake roofs. All I can say is do it right.....and you will be happy for a couple few decades.

 

[schmart]

There are many factors that could cause the issue you are having. It could be installation, style of shingle, brand of shingle, design of house. Some brands are notorious for never sealing down. IKO, old Atlas shingles, Tamko.....all of those must be installed properly or they will blow off. Another factor is if they are 3-tab shingles or a dimensional/architecture shingle. It could also be a combination of factors, such as a cheaper 20 year 3 tab shingle and a bad installation.

Regardless of the reason, it sounds like you would have grounds for filing a homeowners claim if you would like for them to replace it. Age of roof does not matter, if you have RCV homeowners insurance. I regularly get claims approved on these instances. The worst thing that can happen is they come out and deny the claim. If you have tried repairing on several occasions, it should be no problem getting insurance to cover it. Once repairs are done, I can almost 100% guarantee you that in the future shingles will blow off around that repaired area, unless the person that does repairs manually seals the surrounding shingles.

As for a roofing that will be trouble free and guaranteed to 130 MPH wind with 4 nail application is Owens-Corning Duration shingles. Hands down the very best asphalt shingle on the market. Complete idiot proof installation, seals down so tight you can never take them up. I have installed Owens-Corning shingles since 1995, and I cannot recall ever having a blow off with them.

If you need a contractor in the Spring, keep me in mind. I will help you with your insurance claim, if you choose to do that. I am located in Danville, but I don't mind coming to Layfayette if it is to do a roof.

Thank You,
Randy

I will be contacting my insurance agent tomorrow to see about starting a claim. After paying to repair the 1st couple that blew off, I've been repairing them myself and using several tubes of adhesive to seal the surrounding ones. But the blowoffs keep moving around away from where I've made repairs, so the entire roof is suspect.

I'll PM you so we can begin to talk business.

--Rick

 

[eric001]

Did you happen to have your house bid with regular shingles and Eerie? I was just curious the cost difference. I am not a fan of metal roofs, although I do install them. I have bid Decra roofing in the past, which is like Eerie.....but the cost was like 200% more.

Nope, not this time anyway. We went by comparison to the cost of the last roofing job about 15 years ago, which I remember was a 30 year shingle...but other than it not being cheap, I couldn't tell you brand or specific shingle.

I pretty much just got tired of getting 15-20 years max out of supposed 30 year shingles before problems started cropping up. "Buy once, cry once, be done with it" is the phrase that came to mind.

 

[XMil]

I just had a barndo built, so I'm an advocate of the steel roof (and walls). Zero maintenance and a 50 year warranty on the metal, if applied properly, it'll outlast you.

All steel, or pole barn?

 

[jerrob]

All steel, or pole barn?

Neither.
Conventional framing on insulated slab.
2x6 outer walls, sheeted and taped with Zip Board System then 1x6 purlins every 2' on center over walls and roof, then metal attatches to purlins.