S&W 460 hammer rubbing frame

[TJ Kackowski]

Total newb question ... don't shims also cause friction resulting in slowing the hammer and potentially causing light strikes?

Is it that the shim causes less friction than the hammer rubbing against the frame, so the hammer isn't slowed enough to matter?

Follow up question. Are shims available in materials that help to reduce friction or do gunsmiths fabricate them from materials that are known to cause less friction.

Follow up question to the follow up question. Am I just over thinking this issue?

 

[jerzy]

My goal is to just take up the play in the hammer not to put so many shims in that it puts pressure on the hammer

 

[Bosshoss]

Total newb question ... don't shims also cause friction resulting in slowing the hammer and potentially causing light strikes?

Is it that the shim causes less friction than the hammer rubbing against the frame, so the hammer isn't slowed enough to matter?

Follow up question. Are shims available in materials that help to reduce friction or do gunsmiths fabricate them from materials that are known to cause less friction.

Follow up question to the follow up question. Am I just over thinking this issue?

Don't want to shim enough to cause any friction on the hammer. Just move the hammer over slightly.
The shims are usually .002 and can be stacked.
The hammer should NEVER hit the side of the frame when falling.
I resist using shims because if the owner takes the gun apart they seem to disappear to who knows where. I probably have a dozen or so somewhere under my bench that sadly I just put in someone's gun and was test fitting and took it back apart and double checking and poof the shim is gone.

Fun facts:
95% of the shims I have used went in a older forged part gun as these parts are all over the map on dimensions.

Almost never have I "needed" shims on a new MIM parts gun but I have cleared quite a few frames that had hammer rub instead of adding shims to fix the hammer hitting the frame.

The newer frames and MIM parts on average will take .004 of shims. .006 will cause drag or lock up the hammer completely. Again this is average and some MIGHT take another shim but I haven't seen it.
Pretty tight tolerances.

The old forged part guns were all over the place in dimensions and who knows how many shims you could get in one of those if the frame and hammer were at opposite ends of the specs.

 

[jerzy]

Don't want to shim enough to cause any friction on the hammer. Just move the hammer over slightly.
The shims are usually .002 and can be stacked.
The hammer should NEVER hit the side of the frame when falling.
I resist using shims because if the owner takes the gun apart they seem to disappear to who knows where. I probably have a dozen or so somewhere under my bench that sadly I just put in someone's gun and was test fitting and took it back apart and double checking and poof the shim is gone.

Fun facts:
95% of the shims I have used went in a older forged part gun as these parts are all over the map on dimensions.

Almost never have I "needed" shims on a new MIM parts gun but I have cleared quite a few frames that had hammer rub instead of adding shims to fix the hammer hitting the frame.

The newer frames and MIM parts on average will take .004 of shims. .006 will cause drag or lock up the hammer completely. Again this is average and some MIGHT take another shim but I haven't seen it.
Pretty tight tolerances.

The old forged part guns were all over the place in dimensions and who knows how many shims you could get in one of those if the frame and hammer were at opposite ends of the specs.

I wanted to pm you, but couldn't figure out to lol. But anyway. Am i missing something? Or are these the wrong grips for this. The fit is horrible and when I search hogue grips for this gun, i don't come up with an open back grip like this one.

 

[Bosshoss]

I wanted to pm you, but couldn't figure out to lol. But anyway. Am i missing something? Or are these the wrong grips for this. The fit is horrible and when I search hogue grips for this gun, i don't come up with an open back grip like this one.

Hogue rubber grips fit K,L,N,and X Frame Round butts. Might try loosening the bottom screw and move them around some and if someone overtighten the screw it can cause the grips to bow and distort them.
The Tamer grips with the covered backstrap are nice grips on a hard recoiling gun. I used them on some of my competition guns when we shot major power factor and a few hundred rounds a week. I found that the extra rubber over the back strap and my hand size made my trigger reach different and I went back to open backstrap grips. I always shoot double action when competing or practice, and only shoot single action when testing from a bench. The Hogue Tamers with the covered backstrap worked fine for me when shooting single action.
I don't have a clue if the Tamers came on X frames from the factory or are just available as a accessory.

OverMolded Rubber Grip for S&W K, L, N, X & Z-Frame - Round Butt (Tamer Conversion) - Black

S&W K, L, N, X, Z Frame Round Butt Rubber Conversion Monogrip Black

www.hogueinc.com

IMO Hogue grips are the best grips with the rubbers for shooting and Beautiful varieties of wood and checkering available.

I believe you have to have 50 posts or become a sight supporter to PM.