Sighting a scope

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  • Mgderf

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    May 30, 2009
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    I just sighted in an AR-15 in 6.5Grendel.i was not just on paper, but I was in the bullseye at 25 yards before firing the first shot

    I used a laser bore sighting brass cartridge.
    I've gotten on paper without firing a shot with a bolt gun or AR platform by literally sighting down the barrel and the sights.
    I strapped an upper down and looked through the bore. I then moved the cross hairs to the barrel sighting and viola.
    With a bolt gun you simply pull the bolt and look down the barrel.

    Bore sighter cartridges are too easy though.
     

    rosejm

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    Nov 28, 2013
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    Shoot a group of 3 and go from there.

    Given current ammo prices, bore sighting before hand is a plus.
    If you can't use a flashlight, or a laser to bore sight just start with a single round @ 25y and adjust.
    Repeat (one round & adjust @ 25y) until you're on target.

    Shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 rounds, then you can be sure you're on paper downrange.



    Nothing more silly than watching half a box being fired and it takes 3 spotters to decide which way to adjust the point of aim.
     

    fzd

    Plinker
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    Apr 1, 2021
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    Fishers
    Bring a good quality spotting scope.
    Bring sandbags / sturdy shooting rest.
    Use splash reactive paper.
    Bore sighting by looking through the barrel. Cheap laser bore sighters usually won't work well.
    And do the math correctly.
     

    Bill2905

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    Feb 1, 2021
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    I have a reliable laser bore sighter that mounts to the muzzle and aligns with the bore. Adjust the reticle to the laser on my basement wall at about 45 ft then go to the range and fire a shot at 50 or 100 yds. 9 times out of 10 it's on the paper and then takes only a couple more shots to get on the bullseye.
     

    DadSmith

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    Oct 21, 2018
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    Ripley County
    I use a laser bore sighter at 25yds and dial in my scope.
    Then fire one shot dial it in again. Windage is dialed on impact, and elevation 2" higher than impact.
    I then go to 35yd-50yd depending on the cartridge, velocity, and if i want a 200yd zero or 300yd zero, and shoot it in there.
    After that I test it at 100yds and see if the bullet impact is at the right elevation for the different zeros (if 200 or 300yds).
     

    Michigan Slim

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    Jan 19, 2014
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    Don’t usually do it this way but you can save some ammo like this. With your rifle locked down fire first shot. Hopefully it’s on paper. Adjust your optic without moving the rifle to the hit then fire second shot. Should be together. Then go back to X and fire three more. This will get you close.
    I did that for a guy who was on his second box trying to sight in. Shot one at a big target at 50 yards, realigned on bull, moved cross hairs to first impact and rang a ten inch gong at 300 yards with the second round
     

    ditcherman

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    Dec 18, 2018
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    In the country, hopefully.
    I did that for a guy who was on his second box trying to sight in. Shot one at a big target at 50 yards, realigned on bull, moved cross hairs to first impact and rang a ten inch gong at 300 yards with the second round
    This is similar to how my AK friends do it; get on paper at 25, make the silhouette down at 100 yards ring once and call it good.

    You know who you are.
     

    Michigan Slim

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    Jan 19, 2014
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    Don’t usually do it this way but you can save some ammo like this. With your rifle locked down fire first shot. Hopefully it’s on paper. Adjust your optic without moving the rifle to the hit then fire second shot. Should be together. Then go back to X and fire three more. This will get you close.
    The Jim Carmichael method.
     

    SheepDog4Life

    Natural Gray Man
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    May 14, 2016
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    SW IN
    1. Put the rifle on sandbags and pull the bolt.
    2. Look through the bore and center on 25 yd splatter target.
    3. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope reticle to the center of the target. Check through the bore again to make sure I didn't bump the rifle.
    4. Fire one shot. Put in the clicks to adjust POI to 1 1/2 - 2" low.
    5. Fire second shot at 25 yds. S/b 1 1/2-2" low.
    6. Fire third shot at 100 yds.
    7. Put in clicks to zero the rifle - dead center for tactical scoped rifles, 1 1/2 high for hunting rifles/scope.
    8. Fourth shot to confirm, fine clicks... then fire for group. (hunting rifle I fire a 3 round group, tactical I fire 4 5 round groups then overlay using app like Ballistic X)

    (for my 16" AR's with red dots, same thing except 50 yard zero instead of 100 yards)
     

    DadSmith

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    Oct 21, 2018
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    Ripley County
    1. Put the rifle on sandbags and pull the bolt.
    2. Look through the bore and center on 25 yd splatter target.
    3. Without moving the rifle, adjust the scope reticle to the center of the target. Check through the bore again to make sure I didn't bump the rifle.
    4. Fire one shot. Put in the clicks to adjust POI to 1 1/2 - 2" low.
    5. Fire second shot at 25 yds. S/b 1 1/2-2" low.
    6. Fire third shot at 100 yds.
    7. Put in clicks to zero the rifle - dead center for tactical scoped rifles, 1 1/2 high for hunting rifles/scope.
    8. Fourth shot to confirm, fine clicks... then fire for group. (hunting rifle I fire a 3 round group, tactical I fire 4 5 round groups then overlay using app like Ballistic X)

    (for my 16" AR's with red dots, same thing except 50 yard zero instead of 100 yards)
    That was my old way before I bought laser bore sighters.
     

    The Bubba Effect

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    May 13, 2010
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    High Rockies
    For most all of my long guns, I get slung up in prone and fire a three shot group at 25 yards.

    I then evaluate my target, make adjustments on the scope and fire another three shot group to verify.

    At 25 yards, 1/4 inch is pretty much 1 moa.

    I do not care for bore sighters, sandbags or vices/sleds.
     

    nonobaddog

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    Mar 10, 2015
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    Tropical Minnesota
    I definitely do bore sighting. Looking down the barrel is great but if that isn't possible use a good laser bore sighter.

    Before mounting, I like to center the cross hairs in my scopes so I am using the best part of the glass - right down the middle. You can center them by counting turns on the adjusters to both extremes and then setting it in the middle but I don't really like to crank mine to extremes. I prefer just using a mirror. You hold the objective against the mirror and line up the cross hairs with their own reflection. This centers them optically, which I prefer, rather than mechanically. You will need a lot of light for a high magnification scope.

    I prefer to use Burris Signature scope rings so when I am bore sighting I can adjust the scope to the center by mounting it already centered with some offset inserts and not even touch the scope adjusters. This can get tedious if you have to rotate the inserts a lot to get it right but I think it is worth it. This has always got me on paper at 50 yards. Be more careful - get better results.

    Then if you expect it to be an accurate rifle just shoot once at the bullseye and adjust the scope POA to the POI. Shoot again and adjust if needed. Move out to whatever range you desire. Shoot whatever groups you need to have confidence.
    If you suspect it won't be a very accurate rifle start with a group of three or five instead of a single shot and use the center of the group as your POI.
    In general it is better to use groups but also consider the cost of the ammo.
     

    thompal

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    Sep 27, 2008
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    Beech Grove
    I just sighted in an AR-15 in 6.5Grendel.i was not just on paper, but I was in the bullseye at 25 yards before firing the first shot

    I used a laser bore sighting brass cartridge.
    I've gotten on paper without firing a shot with a bolt gun or AR platform by literally sighting down the barrel and the sights.
    I strapped an upper down and looked through the bore. I then moved the cross hairs to the barrel sighting and viola.
    With a bolt gun you simply pull the bolt and look down the barrel.

    Bore sighter cartridges are too easy though.

    When using this method on an AR type platform, considering the offset of the optics or irons above the bore axis, what range do you use?

    I've had pretty good luck with this method on more traditional rifles, but not with ARs.
     
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