The Official 3d Printing thread

[1911ly]

Tried ABS last night and this am. Printed about halfway then peeled off the bed. Using the painters tape and 90 to 110 deg bed temps. It is just curling off. I will pull the tape and use the recommended hair spray. ABS in the past has needed an enclosed printer to get any results for me.

Ordered some PETG.

How tall was your part? The highest I have gone is only about 3 inches. I printed my print cooler with ABS and it came out pretty good. I did have a layer shift on one part. I am pretty sure the glass moved.

We are going to try to dial in Harry's Pegasus this afternoon. One thing Idid notice on his is that if you don't clamp the glass right at the four corners there is a visible gap between the heater and the glass. I had to put the clamps right up against the mounting hardware.

I will post later about the progress we have. I have a bunch of new info about my printer to update but I haven't had time to out together a good post with info. I am having a medical procedure done tomorrow will I will be laid up for a day or two so I will have the time to put a good post together with pictures.

 

[Sailor]

It was a benchy test piece, I could see it lifting off the bed at a half inch into it.

I am using only 2 glass clips. I will heat that sucker up and test the temps with my IR temp gauge.

Recover quickly!

 

[1911ly]

It was a benchy test piece, I could see it lifting off the bed at a half inch into it.

I am using only 2 glass clips. I will heat that sucker up and test the temps with my IR temp gauge.

Recover quickly!

We finished up the printer this afternoon. It seems to print well. This is the second print we did.

[video=youtube;VG_o2I0IAMc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG_o2I0IAMc[/video]

We had to re-tension the y axis belt. They just give you enough to do both axis! Would a half an inch kill the budget?? Lol. It was a fun build that would have been smoother if I was in on the build from the start. We had to back track some hardware, measurement and squareness issues. But in the end it came out great.

I am sure there will be some tweaking needed when he starts with some bigger prints. My back is totally out now. I have injections in the morning so I won't get to get over there much before the weekend. If it needs more then he can figure out on his own he will have to wait. But I think I can talk him threw most things on the ph if he can't figure something out. The thing prints well!

It's a neat printer. A lot nicer then my i3v. I am going to build a homebrew 12 inch printer based around the things I like about this one.

Here is the bolt we printed. It fit together perfectly with no prep needed. I was impressed!

 

[1911ly]

I have been promising to post some more pictures of our printer project. I am finally getting around to it. I got a new laptop and am getting everything setup and I could not remember my password for it and half dozen forums/places I go. I usually stay logged in for convenience.

Anyway....

Print cooler, well worth adding even if it is a cheesy one. What a difference with PLA! I have to print with a bit higher temps. It is manual so I have to turn it on by hand after it lays down the first layer. It works well enough that I will be doing a different style so the controller will control the fan. Trouble is there is no design that I can find that will work with this print head and a auto bed level servo. I will probably have ro design something up.

This was printed in ABS. And is the first thing I tried making out of ABS. It came out ok. I need to play with the temps more. But I am happy with it. I only had one failed print. It was the base that had the shut off flap. It shifted during the print. The platform shifted. I was playing with the temps and I thing I got it a bit to low and the nozzle grabbed it.

The nozzle part printing:





This is part is the flap that diverts some air from the hot head cooler. The hot heat cooler fan was replace with a larger fan:



Her it is assembled. I did not get a lot of the individual parts and the assembly. The design calls for a grill to keep your fingers out of the blade but I removed it to get better air flow. It made a noticeable difference.



Mounted:

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I will take some pictures of cooled and uncooled parts. It really made a difference in the finished print.

More coming soon....

 

[Sailor]

That should work well, AT least your ABS is sticking well. I yanked off my tape and tried hair spray. It at least held but it lifted a little in the front and back. Still this is about the best ABS print I have done. Even with no enclosure which is recommended for layer adhesion. My past prints would always droop at the top of the windows and and the bow would be poor quality. Hatchbox black ABS bed temp 115 extruder 230. .20 layer height. My extruder fan blows a little on the bed I can feel it I need to fix that. This filament needs to be put in my dehumidifier case it has absorbed some water hence the bubbles. ABS is for structural projects. If I want pretty I will use PLA. Heat creep and elephant foot present.



Oh and tell your friend to post detailed pics of how you all cleaned up your wiring!!!
I need to work on this.

 

[Sailor]

PLA cookie cutter for my daughter

 

[1911ly]

That should work well, AT least your ABS is sticking well. I yanked off my tape and tried hair spray. It at least held but it lifted a little in the front and back. Still this is about the best ABS print I have done. Even with no enclosure which is recommended for layer adhesion. My past prints would always droop at the top of the windows and and the bow would be poor quality. Hatchbox black ABS bed temp 115 extruder 230. .20 layer height. My extruder fan blows a little on the bed I can feel it I need to fix that. This filament needs to be put in my dehumidifier case it has absorbed some water hence the bubbles. ABS is for structural projects. If I want pretty I will use PLA. Heat creep and elephant foot present.

View attachment 52673 View attachment 52674 View attachment 52675 View attachment 52676

Oh and tell your friend to post detailed pics of how you all cleaned up your wiring!!!
I need to work on this.

Will print one of those(Benchy) when I finish the part I am printing right now, another print cooler. I have the nozzle set to 250 and the bed to 80.Try dropping the bed temp. Maybe it is still to soft as the next layer grabs it? Your nozzle temp is a lot lower then mine. The media maybe grabby and pulling the print off? Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Play with it. I had more issue finding the right temp with PLA. I was running way to hot on the hot heat and the media was too soft on the lower layer and looked like crap. I went down 5 degrees at a time until I found the right temp. There is about a 5 degree difference in temps for the 2 rolls of PLA that I have. I bought a translucent green that looks pretty cool when the temp is just right.

I will get pictures of the wiring for you. It is not totally neatened up yet, but I think we have a good wire routing scheme. I used a spiral wire loom (wrap) that is great to work with and it is better then convoluted tubing, or as some call it spit tubing, like the stuff they use in automotive wiring. I used 1/4 inch for the smaller bundles and 1/2 for the larger bundles.It looks good. It's very flexible and can be unwrapped quickly to add remove or change wiring.

I hate the wooden bracket that the kit came with for the roll. He used a piece of tubing that lays on top between the rails and he cut a flat spot on end end so it stays put. He had a heavy card board tube laying around, works ok but he is going to go with 1 inch PVC when he is done. The wood bracket on mine drove me nuts making a clicking sound. I made a holder using 2 tee's and 2 elbows and 7 piece's of 1/2 inch PVC tubing. It sits on the table and hovers over the printer. I will snap a picture of it. It works well. And takes weight off the frame.



I

 

[1911ly]

PLA cookie cutter for my daughter View attachment 52677

Pretty cool!

 

[Sailor]

3dbenchy is a pretty good torture test. 250 and 80 peeled up in a few layers.

Trying 230 and 125 now.

 

[MadScientist]

Hey guys, new to guns and mentioned a 3D printed holster I'm currently working on in my intro which led me to here. I have hundreds possibly thousands of hours of printing experience with machines in the price range of my $300 rig all the way to $40,000 PolyJet printers, It's definitely one of my favorite hobbies and once you figure out all the tricks it can be one of the most rewarding. I've included some pictures of the rig I built, and some of the parts I've printed. Ill keep everyone updated on the Nylon Holster I'm currently working on.

 

[Sailor]

Good to have you in this thread. My ABS print at 125 bed and 230 nozzle curled away from the bed . With the filament I have I really need an enclosure for abs to keep it from shrinking so much while printing.

Dipole antenna connector.

 

[MadScientist]

lifting is always a PITA, the only FDM printer I've used that didn't have instances where it lifted was a Fully enclosed Dimension 1200. I'm not completely sure what all you've tried, but the settings I've been most successful with are 240°/100° when it comes to ABS. Also something to try, Matt colored painter's tape seems to not only insulate the bed and allow for more consistent temps all around, but provides a much better heat transfer to the part so long as it is preheated. I normally have to use a putty knife to get my parts off the tape and it rarely ever rips bad enough to not be usable again.

 

[Sailor]

Yeah, my other printer is a fully enclosed Wanhao D6 great cheap concept but crappy build and parts. I am dumping it. I just finished this 12 inch Makerfarm kit and it is not enclosed yet. Have tried tape also. I have some PETG coming today to test as an ABS replacement.

 

[1911ly]

My ABS benchy isn't very pretty. I need to do a little tweaking. And I think the temp was a little to high. this was printed at .2mm. I haven't printed any ABS that thin before. My machine is on a bad location at the moment. On the kitchen table right nest to a outside door. I am going to put it on the den and most likely
make a box for it.











I will tinker with the settings and print another one later today.

 

[1911ly]

Hey guys, new to guns and mentioned a 3D printed holster I'm currently working on in my intro which led me to here. I have hundreds possibly thousands of hours of printing experience with machines in the price range of my $300 rig all the way to $40,000 PolyJet printers, It's definitely one of my favorite hobbies and once you figure out all the tricks it can be one of the most rewarding. I've included some pictures of the rig I built, and some of the parts I've printed. Ill keep everyone updated on the Nylon Holster I'm currently working on.

View attachment 52684 View attachment 52685 View attachment 52686 View attachment 52687

I am impressed! As Sailor said, it's awesome to have you in this thread. We would love to see more of your machines and the stuff you designed/ printed. I have had a lot of fun with the machines. I am new to it. My brother has an older Prusa i3 he has had for several years and my boy saw it and, well, we had to get one.

I am in to electronics and the printer is awesome for making brackets and face plates and eventually boxes when I get good enough at it. And I love building stuff. Most of my ham radio equipment is homebrew, so building this was a no brainer. I had to do it!

I am fairly new to cad programs and am having fun learning that. My SIL teaches Autocad at one of the local colleges and she has been working with my son, which is an awesome experience for him. And he gets a kick out of teaching the old man something new. Lol.

It sounds like I should have a mod change this thread title to the "The Official 3d Printer thread" What do you all think?


Welcome to the forum MS!

 

[Sailor]

That benchy looks better than the ones from my other printer. So yeah maybe lower the temp or increase retraction or slow down? So many ways to get the desired results.

I have zero building and CAD skills. I have my high school Junior daughter helping me learn Autodesk lol.

You have an FT-817 1911? some side brackets would be awesome.

I would like to close some of these also one day. [video=youtube;vlC7qyfXPmM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlC7qyfXPmM[/video]

 

[1911ly]

That benchy looks better than the ones from my other printer. So yeah maybe lower the temp or increase retraction or slow down? So many ways to get the desired results.

I have zero building and CAD skills. I have my high school Junior daughter helping me learn Autodesk lol.

You have an FT-817 1911? some side brackets would be awesome.

I would like to close some of these also one day. [video=youtube;vlC7qyfXPmM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlC7qyfXPmM[/video]

It's kinda cool when you have to lean on your kids for knowledge But if he had not gave me a few tips I would have took a lot longer. I will take knowledge where I can get it!

I don't have a FT817 but I have worked on a few. Nice little radios. Most of my SSB homebrew stuff is Software defined radios. I have build all of it from the soundcard(including it) up. My main rig is a Tony Parks copy of a 6.3 Softrock. I have 5 or 6 of those paired with different things. The main one uses a Widget Soundcard. I was in on the prototyping of it. The 6.3 runs in to a 4.3 MOBO PA/BPF with SWR protection and watt meter (I was in on the proto typing of that too), that runs in to a 200 watt PA of my own design, running in to a LPF I designed as well. I made the circuit boards too. Most all of it is SMT. I have a complete rework station for SMT. I am retired from comercial 2 way radio repair.

Other Radios are the 6.3/ mobo combo paired with a AQRP PA Kit, and a Virgil Stamps LPF kit, (I love Kees Talons kits), and another similar setup with a STM32SDR stand alone controller. And a ton of othet stuff to long to list.

My commercial rigs are numerous. IC7800, FT1000d, FT950, FT857d a few TenTec Omni's and a few other rigs that don't come right to mind at the moment. Then there is the other obsession, vintage tube ham radio. Homebrew and commercial. More then I can list in a few paragraphs. Collins, Johnson, Hallicrafters, Drake, Heathkit and more. then there are the Amps, Henry's are my favorite, but I have Collins, Heathkit, Johnson and several homebrew. The main Amp is my Homebrew 4-1000 I build about 8 years ago. I have to many radios and have thinned the herd a bit.

I am reprinting the benchy at 5 degrees less on the head and at 85% speed with just a touch of print cooling. Playing around.

 

[Sailor]

I am retired from comercial 2 way radio repair.

That explains a lot lol.

I remember looking at those softrocks a long time ago.

I just sold an old Swan drifty 350.

I have an 857d also. great little radio. And a little 40m SSB kit a friend built for me.

 

[1911ly]

That explains a lot lol.

I remember looking at those softrocks a long time ago.

I just sold an old Swan drifty 350.

I have an 857d also. great little radio. And a little 40m SSB kit a friend built for me.

I hear that a lot!

Well dammit, my benchy came off the bed. I can see the curl at the bottom. I shut the print cooler off and am it trying again. It was looking pretty good too. I need to move is and get it in a box. My luck with ABS has probably been dumb luck!

 

[4651feeder]

This thread has again proven a motivator for me. Pulled the recently installed Matrix bed upgrade and mounted a heater on it with SSR relay and new power supply within the past week. While at that, decided to splurge with a $9 sheet of Buildtak. If I had it to do over, would probably have gone with something a little heavier than a 12v 350w power supply as I can hear an xtra fan wired to cool the SSR spool down some when both heaters come on. Thus far seems happy printing @ 60mms with moves @ 80MMs
View attachment 52702 View attachment 52703

Keep those progress posts coming, as it's educational for me.