The Official 3d Printing thread

[actaeon277]

I understand

 

[Sailor]

My PLA nozzle ran 13hrs printing ABS without melting. Must be far enough away.

What the heck takes 13 hrs to print anyway?

Still a lot of little clean up to do on this but it turned out well.

 

[Ericpwp]

 

[Ericpwp]

That is quite the print base!

 

[Sailor]

And then this crap happens, same settings same material different object. Tried two orientations. No adhesion. FM(printing)L.

 

[Sailor]

Tinkercad, took a twist in attachment for my extruded frame, a faceplate and hose segement to use as mounts for some flush mount LED lights I have.

Will see how this comes along.

 

[1911ly]

Tinkercad, took a twist in attachment for my extruded frame, a faceplate and hose segement to use as mounts for some flush mount LED lights I have.

Will see how this comes along.

I love printing fiddly little parts with the printer just to see if I can do something.

That sucks on the last print. That is a fair amount of media too. I haven't printed any thing really large yet with PETG. I thing I have found good settings for my roll. 70 on the plate. I had trouble with lifting until I started running it up 5 degrees at a time. Seems to stick well when I hit 70. The hot head is set to 250. I have the print cooler mounted and running.

I had to reprint mount. The fan was going to run in to the Z axis nut mounting bracket I am using it to print the new bracket though. I rotated the motor 90 degrees.

 

[Sailor]

Those large prints were in ABS. Anything small I have no problems with, its these large prints that are killing me.

Probably need to dial in my bed leveling better. That is a common cause.

 

[harry1911]

p38

Actually I know of a P38 radio contorl fighter that took 80 hours to print and flew like a dream

 

[1911ly]

Those large prints were in ABS. Anything small I have no problems with, its these large prints that are killing me.

Probably need to dial in my bed leveling better. That is a common cause.

I think enclosing it in a box might help the most. From what I have read the top cooling at a faster rate then the bottom is the biggest issue. It's probably a bit of everything in reality. I admit that bed level has caused me the biggest headaches. Especially with my boys machine. It is a PIA to level because of the manual aspect. The auto bed level in the Pegasus firmware is really handy but adding the BL touch or something similar would be the bomb! And I can't find the BL Touch I just bought. I put it somewhere. Grrr. I will find it someday.

The T-nuts should be here tomorrow. I need to work on enclosing my machine this week.

And so far I am having really good luck with the PETG. It is growing on me. One thing I don't like is it oozes out of the nozzle when it stops printing. So I have to preheat the machine and wipe the nozzle off before the next print. It sticks to the bed really well and pops right of when the bed cools. I printed a bunch of stuff today and last night and never cleaned the plate once. I usually have issues after 3-4 prints then I need to clean and respray the bed. I am going to clean the bed next time I print just because I feel guilty lol.

 

[1911ly]

Actually I know of a P38 radio contorl fighter that took 80 hours to print and flew like a dream

Yeah. we gotta print those files!

 

[Ericpwp]

Those large prints were in ABS. Anything small I have no problems with, its these large prints that are killing me.

Probably need to dial in my bed leveling better. That is a common cause.

Try the acetone-ABS slerry. It will stick.

 

[Sailor]

All of those prints were in a hillbilly enclosure, posterboard towels etc.

 

[Sailor]

Good idea ramps mount with cable management in the rear.

From Tech2c video

[video=youtube;o3PU-MJzh98]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3PU-MJzh98[/video]

 

[Sailor]

I take a good stl from from thingiverse prints great but load it into tinkercad to mod some stuff and it renders there with holes in it? How do I fix this?

 

[1911ly]

I take a good stl from from thingiverse prints great but load it into tinkercad to mod some stuff and it renders there with holes in it? How do I fix this?

I have seen this issue with stuff my son makes. And I have even seen some of the files on Thingiverse even before being modified. You might Be alright just opening it in a slicer program and see if it just deals with it.

Usually my boys issue is he groups parts, then he moves them and groups them with more parts and sometimes some programs seem not be able to deal with the grouped edges. The tube/cube thing my boy made the other day looked great until I tried to slice it. I when back and ungrouped things as individual pieces and grouped it as a whole and it sliced fine. It had more holes then a sieve before I did that.

My T-nuts came in today but I got majorly derails with another printer change. My buddy Harry wanted to print panels with text on them. A .4 nozzle just doesn't do small text well. He bought a few .15 nozzles and I put on on my machine to check it out and wow!

The top one is .15 nozzle with a layer height of .1 The bottom is a .4 with a layer height of .2 The difference is amazing.
View attachment 53445

The bed being level, extruder steps and the height of the nozzle being correct seem very important. I have gave up on using a piece of paper for setting the bed level. I use a feeler gauge now. I have a .05mm gauge which is a whole lot closer to being correct then a piece of paper. Or I should say it does print better.

 

[1911ly]

I put the .4 nozzle back on it. I should have printed a 3d benchy first :-( I think Harry and I are both going to go the dual extruder route and use one for the fine nozzle printing.

 

[Sailor]

That picture is not showing up. I may have to try this on my dual extruder. Seems more useful than two colors.

 

[harry1911]

yep i have to use two as print on the 737 panels are down to 3mm. Larry and I did a test last night and it was perfect. He came up with doing it white with raised letter, paint it grey then scrape off top of letter. Out standing idea but then I go to thinking, do it in a clear filament and put a light behind after you scrape off the grey.That would come very close to what is actually done,not perfect but close. This spring we want to experiment with some weapons art and see how they hold up.The small nozzel will help in detail on that.

 

[4651feeder]

On multiple extruder/hot end applications, how does one keep the idle tip at the ready without baking the filament?