The Official 3d Printing thread

[Jaredjosh]

I don’t necessarily have anything specific I’ve been having an issue with besides a shift knob that is shaped like a golf ball. Even with supports the bottom layers are quite messy as it starts to form the curvature of the knob and the dimples in the golf ball shape. I’ve also looked at a few models on thingiverse that recommended editing some of the supports to help with the print. Cura just doesn’t have those options, and I figured some of the other softwares will have better features for fine tuning.

Dan does your machine have part cooling?



Edit. Pictures are a real help but I can understand how a Golf ball shape can be hard to print now that I think of it... Cura has a new tree support feature but it will probably add gobs of time to your print and use tons of plastic. I haven't checked into it to much or really messed with the settings on it to see.

I think S3D has custom supports as well. (Paging Robby, 1911ly) I've been know to add a custom support to a model in Tinkercad before as well.

 

[DapperDan]

It has an air duct that blows on the extruder so I’d assume that’s the cooling element, I just have the cooling settings in Cura to whatever they were default. Right now I solely use Cura and have been getting my prints off thingiverse.

 

[1911ly]

Dan, if it doesn't blow on the printed part (under the nozzle) it's just a cooler for the hot end. Snap a pic of your hotend and post it. Print coolers make a world of difference on some prints. I seldom use supports these days. JJ and robby can attest to the usefulness of a print cooler.

Mine is kind of over kill but I like it. I have air coming on on both sides of the nozzle.

JJ, that stuff is amazing! I gotta get some for rubber feet and stuff.

 

[1911ly]

And I printed with Cura for quite a while. It's great software. Update to the latest versions and you should be fine. When I switched to S3D Cura had not advanced as much as it has now. I don't know that S3D would help with the issue you are having, I think print cooling is the way to go.

 

[DapperDan]

 

[dhamby]

So I’m looking to upgrade from my Anet A8 to something that is a bit more consistent in print quality and looking for some input.
The base requirements are:
Heated bed
No acrylic frame
Ability to print PETG
And more importantly- Consistency


A few I’m considering:
Robo R1+(this is in the lead at the moment)
CR10S
Monoprice Maker Select plus/ Wanhoa i3 Plus
Pegasus 12


Any other suggestions?

 

[1911ly]

View attachment 64251

That's a hot end cooler. You should be able to find a print cooler on Thingiverse. They recommend printing them with ABS, but tbh I have not had issue with using PLA. If it gets to close to the hot end it's going to melt no matter what it is made out of.

 

[1911ly]

So I’m looking to upgrade from my Anet A8 to something that is a bit more consistent in print quality and looking for some input.
The base requirements are:
Heated bed
No acrylic frame
Ability to print PETG
And more importantly- Consistency


A few I’m considering:
Robo R1+(this is in the lead at the moment)
CR10S
Monoprice Maker Select plus/ Wanhoa i3 Plus
Pegasus 12


Any other suggestions?

Size wise (if you are wanting a larger build area) I am going to say you are better off with the CR10 or Pegasus. CR10 is a hell of a deal for the $$. But IMHO I think the Pegasus is a heavier sturdier design. But it is not a simple kit. And it cost a lot more. If I were going to buy something different it would be a CR10 for the $$.

I am modifying a Pegasus at the moment. I will be posting some pics soon.

 

[DapperDan]

So I’m looking to upgrade from my Anet A8 to something that is a bit more consistent in print quality and looking for some input.
The base requirements are:
Heated bed
No acrylic frame
Ability to print PETG
And more importantly- Consistency


A few I’m considering:
Robo R1+(this is in the lead at the moment)
CR10S
Monoprice Maker Select plus/ Wanhoa i3 Plus
Pegasus 12


Any other suggestions?

i was torn between the cr10 and the anycubic i3 mega when I was shopping for my printer. They both had equally great reviews with a few advantages over the other for each of them. I ultimately ended up with the anycubic as it has the textured glass ultra base and is supposed to be able to print abs as is. It has has twin leadscrews for the z axis where the cr10 only has one, and also has the sensor for the filament Incase you run out mid print. So far it’s very consistent and I’ve made a ton of stuff in the few weeks I’ve had, I posted a small sample a few pages back. Obviously the major advantage to the cr10 to the other printers is the size it can print. The robo r1 looks to be pretty awesome as well but I don’t have any experience with it so can’t comment. I’d defiantely give the anycubic a look, it’s almost identical to the wanhoa you listed but with some extra features.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

cr10s has dual lead screws, filament runout sensor, and if I recall print resume.
Unfortunately at the moment there appear to be issues with some of the boards and the hot end maintaining accurate temp. So I'd buy from tinymachines if possible (he wrings the machines out before shipping)

That dapper dan photo looks like the cooling fan may be splitting into a parts cooler vent on the bottom of the carriage (spewing cr-10 style across the nozzle). I could be wrong

supports aren't going to help with a golf ball as much as parts cooling would

 

[dhamby]

I’ll look into the anycubic. I think the cr10s also has an updated/upgraded board compared to the original cr10. Currently the Robo R1+ is the leading one I’m considering as the build plate size is close to the CR10 but has some nice features such as ABl.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I’ll look into the anycubic. I think the cr10s also has an updated/upgraded board compared to the original cr10. Currently the Robo R1+ is the leading one I’m considering as the build plate size is close to the CR10 but has some nice features such as ABl.

Yes. the new cr-10s boards are the ones that are turning up faulty.

 

[dhamby]

Yes. the new cr-10s boards are the ones that are turning up faulty.

I’ll have to look into that. Right now the Robo is my likely choice as it’s build volume is the second largest, meets all requirements, and has ABL.

 

[long coat]

My printer is on the way. I have a tracking # that shows it will be here Tuesday.

I was going to get the Ender 4 with the upgrades for about $315, but seen so many good things about the cr10 mini, I picked it up for $340.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I’ll have to look into that. Right now the Robo is my likely choice as it’s build volume is the second largest, meets all requirements, and has ABL.

If the robo is your choice, then there is nothing to worry about...

Much like firearms... if anyone here is interested in my particular choice of printers (creality) then I would be happy for you to come check them out before purchasing...
Otherwise, have at it with whatever magazine article appeals to you, and live with the consequences. And subsequently justify your purchase thereafter.

In the meantime, I will stand by with what I have experienced with creality printers... and will not hesitate to warn others when something such as the cr-10S board warrants such.

if i understand correctly, 2nd volume compared to?? (volume of the robo plus with a volume of 10 x 9 x 8?)

My cr-10s4 is 11.8 x 11.8 x 15.75.

But I will leave it at try before you buy.... Buy once, cry once, etc...

Too many times people think they can read the **** out of anything.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I'd like to add that I bought two 400x400x400 printers only to realize later that I'd rather have smaller printers...
Bigger, much like the all in one laser/engraver/printer is not always best...

But one doesn't know that until they try it for themselves...

 

[1911ly]

I can't wait to hear what you guys think of the new printers. Please post some pics and projects. Long coat, I think you will be really happy with the CR10. Robby can give you a lot of pointers. His ideal of joining the support group is a great one. There are a lot of pre-done profiles guys are willing to share. I'd take advantage of that. When we got our first printer my brother has the earlier version of ours and he saved me a lot of time getting started.

Dhamby, I am really curious to hear your Robo if you go that route. I hadn't heard of that printer before. I'd love to know more!
--------------
We have been printing parts and making and breaking game plans for the Pegasus redo over the last few weeks. I think what we are doing is going to make it a bit nicer and neater printer. The wiring will certainly be much neater then the stock version. The controller and the graphics display are in printed cases now. And the wiring won't be the stock rats nest. I am a bit OCD about wiring and hardware. The stock version wasn't cutting it with me. We have already tossed a few new printed parts because we have change directions a few times in just the last few days.

The power supply brackets, controller base and Z rod carriage brackets are printed. and mounted. The on off switch box & cover are on the plater. I think I have a usable Bltouch bracket design ready to print. All the hardware changes are done. We just need a few more printed parts and we can start the rewiring. My son wants to print a another bracket to stuffing the power supply mounting. Great call on his part. With some luck we will be doing some wiring tomorrow. That will be a bit of a learning curve. It will be a good experience for him. He can solder great already' But he doesn't know how to ID the stepper wiring. It's not as hard as he thinks. I will let him go it alone to a certain degree. If he listens to me it will be a breeze. We shall see.

We are sticking with the stock extruder setup. It will be able to print flexible media. something that I don't think thee Bowden would do very well on my homebrew. This will print a little slower then mine but it will print at the same speed as his i3v. so he won;t notice much. He Gains a larger print area, I think he will like that. Especially the height. It has 500mm Z rods. The printer should be able to come pretty close to 460mm give or take a little. that is taller then mine. I have more room but my Z lead screws are 400mm I think. I bought longer ones. i will change them out some day. TBH, I haven't printed much tall stuff but it's nice to know I have the room. I wish I could find a 400 or 500mm heat bed that wasn't a silicon rubber pad type.

My son is learning some patience while doing this project. He was in a hurry at first to just toss it back together but I have been making him think 3-4 steps head and plan for making it easier to work on the future and look neat. He was now slowed down a bit. I think my love of building kit projects is growing on him.

He asked to night if we had enough stuff to build another 8 inch machine. He wants to make it semi portable so he can take it to school for class projects. And we do have almost everything. So we will build another printer. We were going to to that next but we got this one and it's jumped to the front of the line. And that is ok. He is having a good time and so am I. He has learned a lot. That was the goal of getting in to 3d printing.

I need to get back to finishing my remote controller setup. I got side tracked with that when I was working on the mini lathe. Then this Pegasus came along. I will get back to that soon. I have a few back order parts that should be coming in soon for the mini lathe. I will probably finish that first. Then get back to doing my printer,

 

[dhamby]

If the robo is your choice, then there is nothing to worry about...

Much like firearms... if anyone here is interested in my particular choice of printers (creality) then I would be happy for you to come check them out before purchasing...
Otherwise, have at it with whatever magazine article appeals to you, and live with the consequences. And subsequently justify your purchase thereafter.

In the meantime, I will stand by with what I have experienced with creality printers... and will not hesitate to warn others when something such as the cr-10S board warrants such.

if i understand correctly, 2nd volume compared to?? (volume of the robo plus with a volume of 10 x 9 x 8?)

My cr-10s4 is 11.8 x 11.8 x 15.75.

But I will leave it at try before you buy.... Buy once, cry once, etc...

Too many times people think they can read the **** out of anything.

I definitely appreciate your input and knowledge on the CR10. If I ever have a chance I’d certainly like to come check out your printers. When I mentioned the Robo was Second largest I meant in the printers I had posted are being considered. I don’t necessarily need height but a larger build plate would be nice as I could print more items at once since what I’m usually printing are rather short in height(10mm). I still may need to consider the Prusa MK2s as it’s right there in price with the Robo.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I definitely appreciate your input and knowledge on the CR10. If I ever have a chance I’d certainly like to come check out your printers. When I mentioned the Robo was Second largest I meant in the printers I had posted are being considered. I don’t necessarily need height but a larger build plate would be nice as I could print more items at once since what I’m usually printing are rather short in height(10mm). I still may need to consider the Prusa MK2s as it’s right there in price with the Robo.

The downside to a larger build plate (and not height) is leveling and heating of the bed.
Most prints i do fit on the enders quite well.
Those beds heat up in about 5 mins (pla) vs the cr-10s4 beds that take about 15 mins.
But the enders can reach temps for abs, while the cr-10 beds cannot.
Cr-10 (and other large beds) can be modified with a keenovo or similar heating element... but then that adds to the cost of the printer.
Tevo came out with a 'cr-10' clone that offers ac heat bed, but it's print quality pales in comparison.
Everything is a trade off... it's just a matter of diving in, and testing the waters
Anything I say about creality or flsun is based on a year of 'water testing' and firsthand experience. Along the way I've discovered many printing 'problems' are universal. And some (few) are machine/hardware specific.

Printing more items at once can be a blessing and a curse.
ie, printing in vase mode means you really can't print more items at once.
non vase mode also means longer print times because of the travel moves between parts. This is not a bad thing though if time is not critical, such as when i printed multiple parts on the speedloader.

 

[Jaredjosh]

Been playing with this TPU lately trying to get everything dialed in. Stringing was an issue but I believe I got that straitened out. It's recommended to turn off retraction as a lot of printers can't handle printing TPU with retraction but I tried turning it on out of desperation and had good results. I also ended up lowering my nozzle temp to 200, enabled coasting and adjusted my printing speed up to 25mm/s. I noticed if my retraction speed was to high that it made stringing worse so I had to find that sweet spot to where it would pull the already melted material back without sucking air.

Here's a print of a GoPro sleeve that I printed. I have the fan removed cause I wanted to monitor the way the filament was feeding. I still haven't run it through any torture test with the exception of one for stringing as I knew that was an issue.

.5 nozzle@ .2 layer height.



Getting there. I still have some fine tuning to do but I'm very pleased so far.




Peace out, JJ