Tricks of the trade

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  • BehindBlueI's

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    When traveling, ask a reasonably well dressed fat woman what she recommends for local restaurants. I have done this in numerous cities on several continents and have yet to be disappointed.
     

    FWP9MM

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    When working on rusty nuts/bolts such as an exhaust system, heat them up with a map gas torch and then spray them heavily with water. The nut/bolt comes out easier and you are less likely to snap the bolt.
     

    sljccj

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    When working on rusty nuts/bolts such as an exhaust system, heat them up with a map gas torch and then spray them heavily with water. The nut/bolt comes out easier and you are less likely to snap the bolt.

    or spray pb blaster on it when hot.
     

    sljccj

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    Hey. I need a trick of the trade. I'm in process of changing out headlight assemblies in a 2001 Tundra (see foto). Will adjust beams tonight, BUT I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust horizontal beam. There is a threaded fitting, but nowhere for a wrench or driver. Is this a needlenose-pliers-on-the-exposed-bolt type adjustment?

    View attachment 54686


    not sure what those cost. I haveca friend that has a mobile headlight restoration business. For around 100 he can make those yellow ones look brand new.
     

    actaeon277

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    Most video cameras (or at least many video cameras) can see some of the Infrared Spectrum.
    So, if you're not sure if your IR remote control is working, point it at a camera, and push some buttons.
     

    Cameramonkey

    www.thechosen.tv
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    Camby area
    pre injection: use a light to transilluminate any small vessels in the target area (they are wrapped in nerves and hurt when bumped). Digitally feel for small muscles also for basically same reason.
    Dry the tissue off before placing topical (think Rx Orajel), let it sit for 3 minutes! There are still doctors out there that think topical anesthetic is a placebo. Imo they don't want to spend the time to let it work.
    "The shot:" Shake fingers in a vibratory motion while inserting the needle quickly but inject the anesthetic slowly! This floods the nerve endings and desensitizes them significantly much the same way a loud room causes your ears to dial down what they can hear. After after the needle is in, patients almost never feel that part If you do it right, the pain you would feel is the pressure of the liquid flowing in. Going slow gives it time to disperse resulting in a perfectly painless injection more than 90% of the time.

    Hope that helps next time you need to inject someone in a mucous membrane. :-)


    I've done a lot of work on my wife and she says even though it takes longer than she would like, if she distract herself by thinking of something else, it's over before she knows it and she always stresses how much she didn't feel anything. ;-)

    And dont skimp on cheap topical. Most dentists do! Went to an endo for a root canal, and whatever he uses actually works! I didnt even feel the typical prick of the injection. This is the first injection of many that I didnt feel at all.

    Now if they could only make the anesthetic not burn going in like a Sonofa...

    Most video cameras (or at least many video cameras) can see some of the Infrared Spectrum.
    So, if you're not sure if your IR remote control is working, point it at a camera, and push some buttons.

    On a related note, if you have CCTV cameras and are considering switching out your conventional floods to LED, beware. Cameras convert a LOT of IR to visible light whether they are designed to or not. Since LEDs are not full spectrum bulbs, they dont emit anywhere NEAR the amount of IR that incandescent bulbs do. What does that mean to you? When you swap out your bulbs 1:1 on actual visible light output (a 150w/1000lm to a 14w/1100LM ) dont be shocked when suddenly your cameras cant see quite as well in the dark. My suggestion is test the bulbs before throwing away the LED boxes. You may want to keep the conventional bulbs if it means replacing the cameras with better IR illuminators, adding supplementary ER illuminators, etc
     

    MRockwell

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    I've heard the trick with the toothpicks, I have a little different technique: I keep wood golf tees in my tool bag, the clear-coated ones, not painted. I sand a little to remove the finish, smear some Titebond glue on the tee, then tap it in the hole with a hammer. Cut/chisel the remaining off, pre-drill with a vix bit, and install the screw. It may seem like overkill, but a bag of golf tees is easier for me to carry around than a bunch of toothpicks.

    Another trick I have used, deals with stripped screw heads. First time I did this in front of a customer, he thought I was Einstein.
    So you have a screw that has been stripped from the phillips bit on the drill/driver. If it's sticking out long enough, open the drill chuck up enough to go around the head and tighten it down on the screw. Switch the driver into reverse and slowly back the screw out.

    Just did this a couple weeks ago while installing vanity cabinets. Whomever removed the old cabinets left a screw in the wall from the old cabs. My drill was right there, took about a half a minute.
     

    thunderchicken

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    ^^good point about using the drill chuck. However if the philips head is flush and has been a bit rounded or have a worn drive bit. Use a small dab of valve grinding compound in the slots. It has some grit to it and often will give enought bite to turn the screw out
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    Speedway area
    I've heard the trick with the toothpicks, I have a little different technique: I keep wood golf tees in my tool bag, the clear-coated ones, not painted. I sand a little to remove the finish, smear some Titebond glue on the tee, then tap it in the hole with a hammer. Cut/chisel the remaining off, pre-drill with a vix bit, and install the screw. It may seem like overkill, but a bag of golf tees is easier for me to carry around than a bunch of toothpicks.

    Another trick I have used, deals with stripped screw heads. First time I did this in front of a customer, he thought I was Einstein.
    So you have a screw that has been stripped from the phillips bit on the drill/driver. If it's sticking out long enough, open the drill chuck up enough to go around the head and tighten it down on the screw. Switch the driver into reverse and slowly back the screw out.

    Just did this a couple weeks ago while installing vanity cabinets. Whomever removed the old cabinets left a screw in the wall from the old cabs. My drill was right there, took about a half a minute.

    Brilliant.
     

    pilotof727s

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    I have a trampoline. I have a simple trick to keep it from blowing away in the wind. I got 2 pieces of 2" PVC tubing and cut them 12" long. I drilled a hole in the top and put a pin through it. I then drove them into the ground right next to the trampoline legs. I use a shortened piece of dog chain and a clip to tie around the legs. I can't count how many times I have either seen it raise 3" off of the ground or see it moved a few inches from the rut in the yard.
     

    Tactically Fat

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    ^^good point about using the drill chuck. However if the philips head is flush and has been a bit rounded or have a worn drive bit. Use a small dab of valve grinding compound in the slots. It has some grit to it and often will give enought bite to turn the screw out

    I've heard that you can also use a rubber band between the screw head and screwdriver to gain purchase.
     

    Alpo

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    Sep 23, 2014
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    Indy Metro Area
    not sure what those cost. I haveca friend that has a mobile headlight restoration business. For around 100 he can make those yellow ones look brand new.

    Thanks. I got them installed and adjusted. Total cost: less than $60 (and the new headlights came with bulbs).
     

    FWP9MM

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    Aug 22, 2010
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    I have a trampoline. I have a simple trick to keep it from blowing away in the wind. I got 2 pieces of 2" PVC tubing and cut them 12" long. I drilled a hole in the top and put a pin through it. I then drove them into the ground right next to the trampoline legs. I use a shortened piece of dog chain and a clip to tie around the legs. I can't count how many times I have either seen it raise 3" off of the ground or see it moved a few inches from the rut in the yard.

    I use rebar pins when I have to stake down the trampoline and other outdoor items I don't want to lose to the wind. The nice thing about rebar pins is that they have several hole drilled through them, so you can put cotter pins, wire, zip ties, ect through them.
    https://m.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-St...-75-in-x-18-in-Actual-0-75-in-x-18-in/4008133
     

    TB1999

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    not sure what those cost. I haveca friend that has a mobile headlight restoration business. For around 100 he can make those yellow ones look brand new.

    This is the business I need to get into. $4 in product and ten minutes labor = $100.
     

    BiscuitsandGravy

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    At my Hermitage
    Here is one for those who have a newer vehicle with 'drive-by-wire' electronic throttle control (NO throttle cable)...

    If your vehicle is experiencing hard starts when cold and has upwards of 80k or so miles...

    Take a look at the large butterfly valve plate on your intake. See if there is any build up of gunk on the edge of the plate. If so, take some Gumout and carefully clean off all the gunk on the edge of the plate.

    What is happening is the gunk buildup is causing the computer to get incorrect air flow values on a cold start which causes a rough start.

    Its easy to check and may save you a few $$$ from the dealer.

    YMMV. Do so at your own risk.

    :ingo:
     

    TB1999

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    How do you do this for $4 in ten minutes?

    When I clean my own headlights, I spend 4 dollars and it takes ten minutes..or 8 dollars if you want the brand name cleaner. Total waste to pay someone to restore your headlights.
     
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