What does R-134a smell like?

[rkwhyte2]

Never because I think the 07 predates CAFs.

It has a cabin air filter according to Google.

 

[Cameramonkey]

It was indeed idling. Was doing it solo. I'll get a helper tomorrow and try again.

 

[Cameramonkey]

It has a cabin air filter according to Google.

Look closer. CAFs are only part of the deluxe auto temperature package. Standard controls it isnt included.

 

[rhino]

Look closer. CAFs are only part of the deluxe auto temperature package. Standard controls it isnt included.

That is surprising. Both my 1987 Voyager and 2002 Silverado had/have cabin air filters. I thought it was a standard thing for modern vehicles.

 

[churchmouse]

It was indeed idling. Was doing it solo. I'll get a helper tomorrow and try again.

Have someone run the RPM's up to maybe 40 and cruising.......1500/1800 RPMs to get the pump spinning where it will do some work. See where you are at.

 

[4651feeder]

It was. I hooked up a refill kit and had to add a bit. Its back in the green, and now the compressor sounds better and not as switchy (you could hear the clutch engaging and dropping regularly). Still no cooler out the vents. but we will see tomorrow.

The DIL used the low side gauge only method like you to boost her a/c last summer and ended up with a new condensor after the now excessive charge on the high side evacuated thru the tubing sidewall, just saying.

 

[Cameramonkey]

The DIL used the low side gauge only method like you to boost her a/c last summer and ended up with a new condensor after the now excessive charge on the high side evacuated thru the tubing sidewall, just saying.

The kit I purchased had a handy gauge on it so you knew when to stop. It wasnt one of the old style kits with just a hose and a valve.

 

[rhino]

The kit I purchased had a handy gauge on it so you knew when to stop. It wasnt one of the old style kits with just a hose and a valve.

He's saying that the pressure reading you saw when connected to the system is not the same as on the high pressure side of the compressor when it the A/C is actually running at capacity.

 

[Cameramonkey]

He's saying that the pressure reading you saw when connected to the system is not the same as on the high pressure side of the compressor when it the A/C is actually running at capacity.

I see. That tells me that if the low side was at the proper pressure and it was added properly, a high side blowout was more likely because of a defect than an overfill. I'm no expert, but I dont see how you can break an otherwise sound system just by filling it back to proper capacity. Maybe the leak she had that caused her to refill was in that part that blew out?

 

[4651feeder]

What it's really saying is one should know both low and high side pressure when charging. Can you get away with knowing only low side pressure? Probably more often that not...but if it's a case like my DIL where high side pressure was backed up at the orifice creating an excessive high side pressure and a deficient low side pressure, one can encounter blowout.

 

[churchmouse]

Some cars are under condensed. When you go to a shop that does a lot of this work r
They have some sizable fans that sit in front of the grill simulating driving. Also doing this at idle is not good either.
If the pump is not up to speed the pressures will not be right. I seldom if ever put the high side gauge on the system.

 

[thunderchicken]

It was. I hooked up a refill kit and had to add a bit. Its back in the green, and now the compressor sounds better and not as switchy (you could hear the clutch engaging and dropping regularly). Still no cooler out the vents. but we will see tomorrow.

If the AC system has the proper charge and the high AND low pressures are where they should be and no indication of a blockage etc, you should be looking to see if the temp blend door motor/blend door are working properly. If it isn't going to full cold position the temp at the vents won't be as cold as they should be.
Keep in mind on an automotive AC system with R134A, you can really only expect @ 30degree difference compared to ambient temp.
Make sure there is nothing blocking the condenser (those dang cotton seeds like to gather there) also make sure the cooling fan is working & if equipped with 2 fans both should be running when on Max AC (you should always be checking ac operation on max ac).
What kind of vehicle are we talking about? Year make & model?

 

[thunderchicken]

Some cars are under condensed. When you go to a shop that does a lot of this work r
They have some sizable fans that sit in front of the grill simulating driving. Also doing this at idle is not good either.
If the pump is not up to speed the pressures will not be right. I seldom if ever put the high side gauge on the system.

Shouldn't need a fan to test AC operation. If it is working properly it should be just as cold at idle as when driving. If the compressor is working properly no reason to raise rpm. A guy just argued this with a GM instructor yesterday during an AC class (supposed to be about 1234yf systems etc but also talked 134a). They are doing some cool new stuff on auto ac systems

 

[DoggyDaddy]

If the AC system has the proper charge and the high AND low pressures are where they should be and no indication of a blockage etc, you should be looking to see if the temp blend door motor/blend door are working properly. If it isn't going to full cold position the temp at the vents won't be as cold as they should be.
Keep in mind on an automotive AC system with R134A, you can really only expect @ 30degree difference compared to ambient temp.
Make sure there is nothing blocking the condenser (those dang cotton seeds like to gather there) also make sure the cooling fan is working & if equipped with 2 fans both should be running when on Max AC (you should always be checking ac operation on max ac).
What kind of vehicle are we talking about? Year make & model?

Seriously, I am in awe of you guys... I can change the oil, spark plugs (unless you have to pull the engine), or replace "easy off, easy on" parts. But I don't have the space or the tools to do anything more complicated. I recently replaced the steering system on my riding mower and I was pretty darned proud of myself (thank you Youtube!).

 

[Cameramonkey]

Its a 2007 Town and Country.

Wife had me drive it to work today so I could see if I could replicate the smell.

I couldnt.

I also had to turn the AC blower down because I was getting too cold. Problem appears to be fixed.

I had it running for over 90 minutes total today. I even saw how bad traffic was on all freeways so I drove from 30th all the way down Emerson to 465 on the south side so I gave it a mix of highway and city. I couldnt get it to smell, and It now gets plenty cold. (and the compressor no longer cycles)

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Its a 2007 Town and Country.

Wife had me drive it to work today so I could see if I could replicate the smell.

I couldnt.

I also had to turn the AC blower down because I was getting too cold. Problem appears to be fixed.

I had it running for over 90 minutes total today. I even saw how bad traffic was on all freeways so I drove from 30th all the way down Emerson to 465 on the south side so I gave it a mix of highway and city. I couldnt get it to smell, and It now gets plenty cold. (and the compressor no longer cycles)

I take a similar detour coming from Lawrence on the way home sometimes. If 465 gets backed up I'll bail at Washington and take Emerson to the southside and get back on 465 (unless it's still backed up, and then I'll just take the surface roads ).

 

[churchmouse]

Shouldn't need a fan to test AC operation. If it is working properly it should be just as cold at idle as when driving. If the compressor is working properly no reason to raise rpm. A guy just argued this with a GM instructor yesterday during an AC class (supposed to be about 1234yf systems etc but also talked 134a). They are doing some cool new stuff on auto ac systems

If you bring up the RPM's the suction pressure will drop with the pump spinning harder.
I have topped off so many it is a blur. When I do my own I pull the refr. out and weigh it back in. Best way to do it. No guessing.

I have seen the new stuff in write ups. Pretty crazy stuff.

 

[churchmouse]

Its a 2007 Town and Country.

Wife had me drive it to work today so I could see if I could replicate the smell.

I couldnt.

I also had to turn the AC blower down because I was getting too cold. Problem appears to be fixed.

I had it running for over 90 minutes total today. I even saw how bad traffic was on all freeways so I drove from 30th all the way down Emerson to 465 on the south side so I gave it a mix of highway and city. I couldnt get it to smell, and It now gets plenty cold. (and the compressor no longer cycles)

 

[churchmouse]

I take a similar detour coming from Lawrence on the way home sometimes. If 465 gets backed up I'll bail at Washington and take Emerson to the southside and get back on 465 (unless it's still backed up, and then I'll just take the surface roads ).

We do our best to avoid 465 during any rush times.

 

[Bennettjh]

Good ol' A/C work. I've changed MANY condensers from wrecks at our shop. It does have a unique smell, like chemicals I guess. If the heater core has a leak, coolant would be leaking into the case. You would be able to differentiate the smells though.

If you want to be sure, take to a good A/C shop. They'll suck it down, make sure it holds vacuum, then refill to exact weight.