Which is better, oil vs grease for firearms?

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  • Mongo59

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    Not all greases are created equal.

    The old recipe for grease is oil and soap. The recipe for soap is an alkaline and fatty acids, neither work well in long term contact with metal.

    Synthetic greases are better than common grease and there are some synthetic greases that are better than others.

    Consider a variable pitch prop on an airplane. Hot to cold, hot to cold and more hot to cold is it's life. The grease used on these finely finished metal surfaces than remain in contact with the grease for long periods of time without freezing, burning up, running out nor marring the surface of the metal is what I have and continue to use on all my rails, rifle or pistol.

    A tube for a grease gun will cost <10 bucks and will last a lifetime. Simply pull 90% of the cotton off a Q-tip, stick it on the surface of the tube and lightly line the rails on moving parts... done.
     

    churchmouse

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    Not all greases are created equal.

    The old recipe for grease is oil and soap. The recipe for soap is an alkaline and fatty acids, neither work well in long term contact with metal.

    Synthetic greases are better than common grease and there are some synthetic greases that are better than others.

    Consider a variable pitch prop on an airplane. Hot to cold, hot to cold and more hot to cold is it's life. The grease used on these finely finished metal surfaces than remain in contact with the grease for long periods of time without freezing, burning up, running out nor marring the surface of the metal is what I have and continue to use on all my rails, rifle or pistol.

    A tube for a grease gun will cost <10 bucks and will last a lifetime. Simply pull 90% of the cotton off a Q-tip, stick it on the surface of the tube and lightly line the rails on moving parts... done.

    Name of this product please.
     

    churchmouse

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    Plastilube #3 buy Sulflo, Inc.

    Tonawanda, NY

    Ph#716-695-3585

    Thanks. I will check this out.

    I have over time started to use my own blend of lubricants in specific areas on my guns.

    I mix Moly based engine assembly lube (the red stuff from permatex) and a lite synthetic oil for the slides and BCG's. It has proven to be stellar for this. If it is cold I use more oil in the mix.
    Straight up good old Hoppes gun oil in the ignition controls.
     

    Rookie

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    Ive had Frog lube go rancid, it also works for **** in cold weather. Never touch the stuff any longer. TW25B grease on pretty much everything it runs hot or cold.

    I've had the same problem with frog lube in cold weather. After it ruined a hunt, I went home and threw it in the trash. I've been happy with Gibbs lubricant, but I run my rifle WET.
     

    AmmoManAaron

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    They both serve a purpose and have specific places. JMHO of course.

    If it slides, grease
    If it rotates oil
    I've got a couple of cans of lubaplate that I use on pistol rails, the Garand, and M1A

    It's not a dichotomy.
    Grease for sliding parts that carry a load.
    Oil for getting into all the nooks and crannies.

    ^^^What these guys said pretty much sums it up for me^^^

    Lubriplate or similar grease for key areas of Garand, M1A, some pistol rails, and old bolt action military rifles.

    A light mineral oil (think Hoppe's gun oil) in rotating stuff like trigger, hammer, and sear assemblies or anywhere else that I want lubrication that requires it to get into tight places. I don't like animal/vegetable based stuff like Froglube because it goes rancid and that means it is no longer the same chemically or physically.

    AR/M-16, MP5, etc. get run wet with light mineral oil. When doing lots of shooting with them (like at Knob Creek), if they start to choke, spray the bolts and other internals down with your preferred brand (Rem oil, etc.) and carry on. They will blow dirty oil out when you go back to shooting, but they will be back to running smoothly. Serious shooters wear old clothes for a reason, you get filthy!
     

    LCSOSgt11

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    I usually use a "grease" on slide rails in a semiautomatic pistol, for summer carry, as it will stay and not disappear. In the winter, I use an "oil". I use Mil-Comm products, TW-25B and MC-3000.
     

    Bfish

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    There are some greases mentioned here I'm not too familiar with but I use both grease and oil like most of you. For grease it's white lithium grease or break through clean's grease. And for oil I've got Lucas Oil's gun oil, a little break through clean and ballistol. I put grease in a couple of places on pistols and on rifle bolts, everything else basically gets oil.
     

    rhino

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    If I used grease on my AR, I would have to clean it at some point when the gritty goo started dragging on the moving parts. I use FP-10, WeaponShield, or SLIP2000 and it keeps going as long as it's a little "wet."
     

    Mgderf

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    For the past year or so I've been using Permatex engine assembly lube for just about everything.
    It is MUCH cheaper than "gun oil" and works so much better.

    It does get a little stiffer in very cold weather, but not stiff enough to worry about.
    It stays where I put it and isn't affected much at all by heat.
    It is slicker than snot, easy enough to clean up after, and it just plain works.

    I use a Q-tip to apply and don't worry from there.
     

    churchmouse

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    For the past year or so I've been using Permatex engine assembly lube for just about everything.
    It is MUCH cheaper than "gun oil" and works so much better.

    It does get a little stiffer in very cold weather, but not stiff enough to worry about.
    It stays where I put it and isn't affected much at all by heat.
    It is slicker than snot, easy enough to clean up after, and it just plain works.

    I use a Q-tip to apply and don't worry from there.

    I have several hypodermic needles that I use to apply the different oils etc. One has a Hypo body and a plastic dispensing "Snout" on it that is perfect to use for applying the assembly lube. Especially if I have it cut a bit with oil. It goes exactly where I want it to go.

    I got a few of these years ago from the engine tech on our racing team. I am down to 2 of them.

    Cut it with a synthetic oil for cold weather. Even good old Hoppes works.
     
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    I use grease as much as possible even in extreme cold. About all I use oil for anymore is wiping down the outside and a little in the barrel to prevent rust. I do use a very light weight grease, I want to say its a NLGI 000 in winter and 00 in summer. Trick is to not use too much.

    The only place I will use grease is on an AR, and I think I am still using miltec for that. Otherwise I use oil on shotguns, pistols, and other rifles.

    As mentioned above be wary of using grease in any quantity in ARs in cold conditions. I got my "truck gun" AR out of the truck after a short drive to the range where the truck interior never quite warmed up. Therefore, the rifle was still quite cold. I went to charge the gun, and the bolt locked back due to the grease being so thick.

    Prime example of using too much and/or wrong type of grease. The AR I use yote hunting is lubed with grease. Even after being out all night in temps close to 0*f it hasn't failed. Grease isn't like oil in ARs in particular. Oil, yeah soak it down and no problem. Grease, the least amount you can use the better.
     

    EricG

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    Ive used both without issue. I prefer grease on specific areas of my AR bolt carrier and bolt though.
     
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