Advice on selling a Ruger SR 1911

[doddg]

I overpaid for a 1911 when I was young(er) and dumb(er) because the guy I worked with and bought it from said it was "custom" ...which it technically was. Just not high-end custom. Which is what I thought it was.

$700 for a gun that if I wanted to sell now would likely go for $400 or so. I do want to sell it and upgrade to something better, but I can't stomach the ~$300 loss, so it sits in the safe and goes to the range every now and then. It is what it is at this point.

And besides, the wife doesn't know a good 1911 from a bad 1911, and when she goes to the range with me she like "the big one" () so I'll keep it for her enjoyment.

1. Thanks for sharing your pain.
2. I keep most things too long: houses, cars, clothes, ha!
3. In this case since I can pay for 2 of my 22LR guns by selling the 1911 for $600, I can live with my $54 loss.
4. We'll see if it will come to more: Armslist has been good to me over the months.

 

[bgcatty]

I would suggest you read the threads on INGO about observations of prices for guns in our classified section for some insightful thoughts and comments on pricing of used firearms.

 

[gregkl]

I have not done statistical calculations but at first glance it appears to me that the more expensive firearms don't move as well on INGO as lower priced firearms. I'm not on other state style firearms forums (like TGO for instance) so I have no basis for comparison.

Maybe the market in general favors lower priced guns. I have always tried to buy at least a mid-tier firearm(I have no problem spending more for a S&W revolver over a Taurus) so in my mind, I think others would be like me. Then when I don't sell such a firearm in a timely manner, I wonder why someone wouldn't buy it when they would be saving into the hundreds of dollars on the transaction.

I know people are buying them new so I guess they value the newness over a clean, one owner. But as soon as they insert a mag into the pistol or drop rounds into the cylinder and touch off that first round, guess what? That new gun is now used and that first round cost you potentially hundreds of dollars.

I do think if you are willing to be patient and bump your listing over an extended period of time, a buyer will come along. After all, most sales involve good timing. I have a really nice CZ listed with only one offer so far but because people can buy a similar model for less money and then add the CGW package they can spread the cash outlay over time and it feels less painful.

Which is also why folks recommend splitting up the extras into a separate listing. It brings the price point down and makes it more palatable to buy. Even though, they may later buy those same items at a premium price. I say, buy the package. It's almost always the better deal and sell what you don't want. Often times you can make a little money on splitting it up yourself.

Just some of my thoughts, which are usually a little warped.

 

[KMaC]

Comparing your ad photos to the Ruger website I think you have the Target model 6736 which has a MSRP slightly ($80) above the Standard model 6700. It looks like the main differences are an ambi thumb safety, the sights and grips. Having an accurate description may make a difference to a serious buyer that is looking for the Target model.

 

[gregkl]

I looked at the ad. One piece of advice. I would never put "firm" in an ad. You can be firm and you can say no to any offer you don't want, but putting "firm" in an ad shows the seller to be inflexible and you will lose a percentage of potential buyers that are turned off by that one word.

It portrays a certain attitude. Same with $XXX.xx or "best offer". Just list it at a price. See what happens. I know that now a days people seem hesitant to negotiate, which is sad.

Though most still list with at least a little wiggle room in the price.

 

[doddg]

I would suggest you read the threads on INGO about observations of prices for guns in our classified section for some insightful thoughts and comments on pricing of used firearms.

1. I check Armslist and here at least once per day.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

1. I check Armslist and here at least once per day.

That tells you what people ask. Search completed auctions on gunbroker and you'll see what people paid.

 

[Itchytriggerfinger]

1. I check Armslist and here at least once per day.

If I were looking to sell a gun I sure wouldn't want to use INGO classifieds as a barometer for gun values.

 

[doddg]

I looked at the ad. One piece of advice. I would never put "firm" in an ad. You can be firm and you can say no to any offer you don't want, but putting "firm" in an ad shows the seller to be inflexible and you will lose a percentage of potential buyers that are turned off by that one word.

It portrays a certain attitude. Same with $XXX.xx or "best offer". Just list it at a price. See what happens. I know that now a days people seem hesitant to negotiate, which is sad.

Though most still list with at least a little wiggle room in the price.

1. Thanks for the input!
2. I thought by saying "firm" and meant it, that would get rid of the "wishers."
3. "Best offer" to me is an invitation to offer 10% - 20% less, so why not.
4. There are some that always put in Armslist: "Offer" I never deal with them, although I've wanted to offer 1/2 of what it is worth, just to bug them.
5. "Free" really drives me insane. I want to tell them, "Great, I'll take it free, where do I pick it up at!" To me, "free" should not be allowed.

 

[gmcttr]

I would suggest you read the threads on INGO about observations of prices for guns in our classified section for some insightful thoughts and comments on pricing of used firearms.

1. I check Armslist and here at least once per day.

I believe he was referring to this thread for insight into the thoughts of buyers...https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...sion/441396-ingo-classifieds-observation.html

 

[mcapo]

Just like a new car...

As I stated in another thread of yours, some deals are bad, some great and some fair. From reading your threads, you have had REALLY good luck. If this one just ends up fair, you are still way ahead.

If you don't mind constructive criticism; reduce the verbiage of your ad. Those of us that comprise your fan base in threads might not mind, but a buyer just wants price, condition, features and limiting factors (ie location).

I like to include a link to a current production model. They buyer can see the exact model, MSRP, do his online shopping and then figure out what his savings is to but "used" from an individual. My number is about 20% before I am interested but I am not quite the penny pincher you are (meant that as complimentary)!

 

[gregkl]

1. Thanks for the input!
2. I thought by saying "firm" and meant it, that would get rid of the "wishers."
3. "Best offer" to me is an invitation to offer 10% - 20% less, so why not.
4. There are some that always put in Armslist: "Offer" I never deal with them, although I've wanted to offer 1/2 of what it is worth, just to bug them.

It will get rid of the "wishers" but it would also exclude potential buyers. What if someone offered you $5 less or asked for and extra box of ammo or asked if you meet him closer to where he lives or at a time that was inconvenient to you, but helped the buyer? I know some of this does not relate directly to the price of the listing but it tells me that I may as well move on to another listing since the guy is set.

Think about the term "best offer". That is sorta like an auction. Only you haven't listed it as such or established a timeline. You have a guy offer 20% less. Do you take it now or tell him he has to wait to see if his offer is the "best"? And this offer may only be on the table for a short period of time. If he is seriously looking and there are other options for sale and you tell him to wait, he may or may not. At the end you may find out that that first offer was your best.

If a seller does not put "best offer", you should still make an offer. Selling and buying is a negotiation.

 

[mcapo]

3. "Best offer" to me is an invitation to offer 10% - 20% less, so why not.
4. There are some that always put in Armslist: "Offer" I never deal with them, although I've wanted to offer 1/2 of what it is worth, just to bug them.

I've never been insulted by an offer. I might counter at full price but and offer is just that...

 

[Itchytriggerfinger]

1. Thanks for the input!
2. I thought by saying "firm" and meant it, that would get rid of the "wishers."
3. "Best offer" to me is an invitation to offer 10% - 20% less, so why not.
4. There are some that always put in Armslist: "Offer" I never deal with them, although I've wanted to offer 1/2 of what it is worth, just to bug them.
5. "Free" really drives me insane. I want to tell them, "Great, I'll take it free, where do I pick it up at!" To me, "free" should not be allowed.

MRW the "thrifty" buyer becomes the "firm" seller.

 

[Ark]

This will allow me to recover my $654 invested.

We have our answer.

There is no reason to purchase your gun when I can buy a brand new one for less money.

 

[doddg]

If I were looking to sell a gun I sure wouldn't want to use INGO classifieds as a barometer for gun values.

1. I go to Hoosier Armory (best new prices I've seen local), and pay $100 - $200 below their new price. (unless new the gun is $200 - $275ish).
2. I do go to Armslist, since you can easily isolate the manufacturer and caliber and see what the asking prices are and list mine for less.
3. I will quickly go to other sites and see what the range of asking prices ask for used guns, which will be from $250 - $450 (last checked about a RIA 1911-22).

 

[doddg]

We have our answer.

There is no reason to purchase your gun when I can buy a brand new one for less money.

1. Lesson learned. But too late to help me since noone told me about the secret abundance of $500ish Ruger SR 1911s.

 

[doddg]

I've never been insulted by an offer. I might counter at full price but and offer is just that...

1. I was selling a gun for $250 once.
2. Got a 1 word email: "$180"
3. I sent back a one word email: "$280"
4. Yes, I was offended.
5. I did ended up selling the gun for $225 later, which if he would have started at $200, that would have been acceptable.
6. But, in fairness: it must work for them, but I'd be afraid of what the gun's "hidden qualities" would be in a quick acceptance of a "too-low wishing" offer.

 

[doddg]

It will get rid of the "wishers" but it would also exclude potential buyers. What if someone offered you $5 less or asked for and extra box of ammo or asked if you meet him closer to where he lives or at a time that was inconvenient to you, but helped the buyer? I know some of this does not relate directly to the price of the listing but it tells me that I may as well move on to another listing since the guy is set.

Think about the term "best offer". That is sorta like an auction. Only you haven't listed it as such or established a timeline. You have a guy offer 20% less. Do you take it now or tell him he has to wait to see if his offer is the "best"? And this offer may only be on the table for a short period of time. If he is seriously looking and there are other options for sale and you tell him to wait, he may or may not. At the end you may find out that that first offer was your best.

If a seller does not put "best offer", you should still make an offer. Selling and buying is a negotiation.

1. All good points which speak to my inexperience and there is nothing like not being able to sell an item to teach you.
2. I have been spoiled since I "usually' only buy below norm and sell for the same (usually) in less than a day.
3. I might be getting treated for my "spoiled" attitude, but I'll reserve my critical opinion until after the weekend if it doesn't sell.
4. I changed the as here, but I can't change my Armslist ad b/c I can't access it till I get home.

 

[Areoflyer09]

It doesn’t help any when you tell us what you paid.

I know you’ve said that you aren’t into buying online but it’s worth looking into again. You are competing with those prices when you go to sell anyways. Depending on the site shipping can be free and USDS in Greenwood does transfers for $15 if paid in cash. Between the lower prices and the fact you don’t pay sales tax (supposed to report that on your taxes), you can save a bunch at the time of purchase.