.38's and driving a Subaru ! Thor is correct.... the man card is at risk !
Range day again: 2 days in a row, and I feel so much better (been sick for 2 weeks) today than I have in 2 weeks.
Great day at the range at 20' and 30' using only revolvers.
I wanted to confirm what I discovered yesterday: Ruger GP100 .357 Wiley Clapp edition shoots better for me than the Colt Cobra, which shoots far right for me.
I even put a few rounds through with my little Ruger LC9s, which also shoots better than the Colt Cobra in my hands: go figure!
I know it is just me and not the gun, but I had an HK that just wouldn't shoot for me (really low).
Colt Cobra that I thought would be long term is being sold. I wonder if I'll shoot something that will outdo the Ruger GP100 .357 Wiley Clapp edition?
I found a S/W 686-6 .357 6" barrel SS that I lusted after yesterday at an LGS, asking $639, that I know I could get for less.
I wonder if it would shoot any better with the 6" barrel, but the trigger would not be better I would not imagine.
20' using only .38 sp +P Remington 125 grain (bought at WalMart).
I shoot the Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp better than the Colt Cobra and even in D/A mode which surprised me.
30' I used some .357 in the Ruger GP100 W.C. ed. with the same results of shooting better in D/A mode.
Used Remington Golden Saber 125 grain Hollow Points.
The .357 shot better than the .38 sp +P on this limited trial, which someone had mentioned in a previous gun than it would.
If you ever do let me know. If all is well here and the lawyer stuff is done then I'll buy it back if possible. Glad you're liking it so far.
Range day again: 2 days in a row, and I feel so much better (been sick for 2 weeks) today than I have in 2 weeks.
Great day at the range at 20' and 30' using only revolvers.
I wanted to confirm what I discovered yesterday: Ruger GP100 .357 Wiley Clapp edition shoots better for me than the Colt Cobra, which shoots far right for me.
I even put a few rounds through with my little Ruger LC9s, which also shoots better than the Colt Cobra in my hands: go figure!
I know it is just me and not the gun, but I had an HK that just wouldn't shoot for me (really low).
Colt Cobra that I thought would be long term is being sold. I wonder if I'll shoot something that will outdo the Ruger GP100 .357 Wiley Clapp edition?
I found a S/W 686-6 .357 6" barrel SS that I lusted after yesterday at an LGS, asking $639, that I know I could get for less.
I wonder if it would shoot any better with the 6" barrel, but the trigger would not be better I would not imagine.
20' using only .38 sp +P Remington 125 grain (bought at WalMart).
I shoot the Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp better than the Colt Cobra and even in D/A mode which surprised me.
30' I used some .357 in the Ruger GP100 W.C. ed. with the same results of shooting better in D/A mode.
Used Remington Golden Saber 125 grain Hollow Points.
The .357 shot better than the .38 sp +P on this limited trial, which someone had mentioned in a previous gun than it would.
I know you have already made your decision but I'm just curious haw you figured the Ruger shot better than the Colt.
At 20 feet the Colts group was better than the Rugers in DA. You are using some scoring system that that doesn't take into account the gun isn't sighted in and/or the shooter isn't used to DA revolver trigger pulls. The fliers you had in SA were not the gun.
The Ruger shot a decent group at 30 feet but with a totally different kind of ammo. The Ruger looked closer in group size to the Colt at 30 feet with the same ammo.
This is a very small sample size to determine which gun shoots the best.
The Ruger has a slightly longer barrel than the colt which probably doesn't mean much as mechanical accuracy goes but the slightly longer sight radius and forward weight bias will help some. Same thing if you get a 6" S&W and compare to the 3" Ruger it really isn't fair to the short barrel Ruger.
The differences in the triggers may be subtle but the targets show that you have better control with the Ruger It might be the grips or better sights or a better trigger pull. Your Colt targets at 20 vs 30 feet shows that your trigger control needs practice. The points of impact are different left and right for each distance. That doesn't mean the Ruger has a better trigger just one that is slightly easier for you to use. DA is a skill that has to be worked on and can be practiced in dry fire.
I know you are having fun running the gauntlet of guns but you have sold a lot of guns that I know would out shoot you and some of the stuff you have now.
We have a saying in the competition shooting world it is "you can't buy talent". Some will argue that it is fun trying though.
No knock on you but just don't get your scoring method which seems to penalize the gun for sights being off and the shooters ability.
I know you have already made your decision but I'm just curious haw you figured the Ruger shot better than the Colt.
1. See below.
At 20 feet the Colts group was better than the Rugers in DA.
2. By my scoring systen it was by far the Ruger in front of the Colt. See below.
You are using some scoring system that that doesn't take into account the gun isn't sighted in and/or the shooter isn't used to DA revolver trigger pulls.
3. You are absolutely correct.
4. But, the shooter is using the same sub-skill level to shoot better in D/A with the Ruger, so the comparison is valid to said shooter.
The fliers you had in SA were not the gun.
5. Yes, and that does really bug me when I fire a "bullseye" on the first shot with a new gun (happened more than once), then proceed to shoot the next rounds imperfectly.
The Ruger shot a decent group at 30 feet but with a totally different kind of ammo.
6. Yes, at 30 feet the same happened yesterday as well: baffling!
7. And, yesterday I was using the same ammo for all rounds.
The Ruger looked closer in group size to the Colt at 30 feet with the same ammo.
8. Yes, the Ruger actually had some closer shots, but I was looking at the total shots closer to the red dot for my purposes.
This is a very small sample size to determine which gun shoots the best.
9. Yes. This is why I came back again and didn't finalize my decision yesterday, b/c it was recommended that I use a different ammo, but still, much to quick for a true comparison: I have treated the Colt unfairly, but I will console myself with the Ruger's performance.
10. I ordered 4 different kinds of ammo, but the Colt will be sold even before I get it since I am happier with the Ruger's performance in my hand after just 2 range trips and 3 different kinds of ammo.
11. If I continued to put rounds through the Colt, I would improve, b/c I know I am the weak link in all this.
The Ruger has a slightly longer barrel than the colt which probably doesn't mean much as mechanical accuracy goes but the slightly longer sight radius and forward weight bias will help some.
Same thing if you get a 6" S&W and compare to the 3" Ruger it really isn't fair to the short barrel Ruger.
12. Yes, I've read where a 4" barrel is sufficient for accuracy, so I did suppose that the 3" Ruger had an edge over the 2" Colt, plus the longer sight radius.
The differences in the triggers may be subtle but the targets show that you have better control with the Ruger.
13. Exactly: I suspect that is perhaps the weight of the gun, and the subtleties of the grip.
It might be the grips or better sights or a better trigger pull.
Your Colt targets at 20 vs 30 feet shows that your trigger control needs practice.
14. So true!
The points of impact are different left and right for each distance.
That doesn't mean the Ruger has a better trigger just one that is slightly easier for you to use.
DA is a skill that has to be worked on and can be practiced in dry fire.
15. It is surprising to me that I shoot better in D/A with both guns as compared to S/A with both guns: I've never seen anything like it with other guns I've had.
I know you are having fun running the gauntlet of guns but you have sold a lot of guns that I know would out shoot you and some of the stuff you have now.
16. I am very aware of my limitations, and am not misguided as to any delusions of grandeur in my marksmanship.
We have a saying in the competition shooting world it is "you can't buy talent". Some will argue that it is fun trying though.
17. I am having fun!
18. To your point however, a friend here pointed out that my upgrading my Shadow 2 would not improve my skill set has been proven true.
19. I have not done an exhaustive test since I haven't shot the Shadow but just a few rounds since its upgrade, and I haven't taken the time to look at the old targets to compare, but I've not been impressed so far. (but I had to try at least once for some triggers and springs and in my case, a bushing also.
No knock on you but just don't get your scoring method which seems to penalize the gun for sights being off and the shooters ability.
So the fact that the gun may need the sights adjusted doesn't figure in to your scoring at all?
1. As you can see, there is no adjustment with the Rear Sight: Groove in the top strap and the Front Sights: Red fiber optic, don't have any adjustment screws.
2. So, I guess you have to find where your groups are (from a rest and 2 hand shooting) and then adjust accordingly.
You can replace the front sights if that is any help, but that's about it, if I understand my reading.
When I test a gun for accuracy I don't care one little bit where the holes are on the target. I just care how close they are to each other.
I can fix where the holes are on the target.
3. Exactly! That is what I've been told by a couple of members here who have pmmed me trying to be helpful when I'm going through agony about adjusting sights to get on target.
4. Your advice is right on the money and others have said the same.
5. My CZ Shadow 2 sights were adjusted by the Wizard when he was upgrading and "tuning" it. It still is firing to the right for me (if I remember correctly), but I'm not touching it until I can be sure I cannot correct what I'm doing wrong first, before I admit defeat and move the rear sights to the right.
BTW I was only looking at the last set of targets.
I didn't know the colt was fixed sight. While it is not as easy as turning screws it can be adjusted.
After determining that the gun is in fact shooting right you can file the left side of the rear notch to widen it which will move the impact left.
1. I had read about that, and I personally wouldn't have the gonads to do it.
If a solid front sight and not FO like this can also file down side of front sight to move point of impact right or left.
Up and down by front sight height.
While some wouldn't do that to their gun I gunsmith revolvers and have done it before.
2. If it was a gun I knew I'd keep for a decade: sure. But, I have no reason to trust myself.
3. Ok, maybe 2 yrs.
I'm sure you will like the Ruger but bet you would like the 686 more.
4. You're playing with me!
5. If you tell me you've owned both and know the truth b/c it's out there (old X-Files slogan), that would be a gauntlet, but for now, I really am going to try to behave myself (and stay out of gun shops).
6. Although in my weakness I'm going to go to GunBroker and take a peak, since a friend told me about that "local" SW 686.
Good luck with the revolvers.
So the fact that the gun may need the sights adjusted doesn't figure in to your scoring at all?
When I test a gun for accuracy I don't care one little bit where the holes are on the target. I just care how close they are to each other.
I can fix where the holes are on the target.
BTW I was only looking at the last set of targets.
I would buy the S/W 686 6" barrel if I knew it would be even "better."
The Smith and Wesson 686 is the quintessential 357 magnum. Period.
The Smith and Wesson 686 is the quintessential 357 magnum. Period.
If you buy one and shoot 38's in it just save yourself the trouble of getting berated by me on here and buy a SW Model 15.
I get you have your methodology for "testing" and that's fine. In couple sentences let me share what I did today with 22 ammo testing in a rifle. I shoot one five round group of each ammo and then repeated it a second time in reverse order after a long cool down period. Measured each five shot group and then threw out the "worst" shot and measured the best four shoot group for each ammo. A comparison of those groups along with an average and a standard deviation pointed out the best ammo. Next time out, I will take the top four (testing eliminated three) and repeat the process again.
Did the same with a pistol but only got through one round before ran out of daylight...now this pistol is a great example of how a couple outings shouldn't make or break a firearm. The first couple times I shot this gun the groups where horrible. Embarrassing. I replaced the rear sight blade and, viola!, now its grouping to my eyesight's capabilities.
What I am saying is little changes (a sight, how you address the trigger, grip, ammo, etc.) can make a HUGE difference in the performance of a firearm.
But...you have your way and I've said my $0.02 worth....
EDIT: ...and another thing....If you want guns that are "bullseye" tack drivers, try to buy ones with adjustable/target sights.
How's the trigger on the WC? I have a mid 90s GP100 that has a decent trigger; I improved it with reduced power springs and consider it very good, but even the best Ruger GP100 triggers I've manipulated weren't what I'd consider excellent.
I'm interested to know if they were able to step it up a few notches with the WC.
My 627-0 would take issue with your statement. That might be a good thread: a debate on what is the quintessential .357 magnum. I bet there would be a few votes for the Python as well.
The Smith and Wesson 686 is the quintessential 357 magnum. Period.
1. Good to know!
If you buy one and shoot 38's in it just save yourself the trouble of getting berated by me on here and buy a SW Model 15.
2. I'm writing it down!
3. Only reason I bought the .357 instead of a .38 is b/c of the value.
4. I just thought the $600 price was too righteous a price for a gun that sells new at the LGS that has the best new prices I know of:
$778.99 (Ruger Wiley Clapp GP100 1753).
I get you have your methodology for "testing" and that's fine.
In couple sentences let me share what I did today with 22 ammo testing in a rifle.
I shoot one five round group of each ammo and then repeated it a second time in reverse order after a long cool down period.
Measured each five shot group and then threw out the "worst" shot and measured the best four shoot group for each ammo.
A comparison of those groups along with an average and a standard deviation pointed out the best ammo.
Next time out, I will take the top four (testing eliminated three) and repeat the process again.
5. I'm admitting don't know what I'm doing and making it up as I go.
6. I appreciate you taking the time to teach me a proper way to vet a gun's sights.
7. When I was told to use different ammo, I bought some and ordered some (even though I ended up using what I had (only 3 brands).
Did the same with a pistol but only got through one round before ran out of daylight...now this pistol is a great example of how a couple outings shouldn't make or break a firearm.
The first couple times I shot this gun the groups where horrible. Embarrassing. I replaced the rear sight blade and, viola!, now its grouping to my eyesight's capabilities.
8. I have had the same experience, where I couldn't even hit the small target I was using: baffling!
What I am saying is little changes (a sight, how you address the trigger, grip, ammo, etc.) can make a HUGE difference in the performance of a firearm.
9. Once, with a Glock 26, the range master showed me how to get a "higher" grip, really forcing the web of my hand up into the beavertail, and instantly: better shooting. I was amazed! Noone had shown me and I hadn't stumbled across it reading. Education is a wonderful thing.
But...you have your way and I've said my $0.02 worth....
10. Appreciate you taking the time.
EDIT: ...and another thing....If you want guns that are "bullseye" tack drivers, try to buy ones with adjustable/target sights.