CZ Omega range with FNS

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  • Ggreen

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    1. I wasn't referring to "yours" b/c I really don't remember from the 4 guns I shot today which one it was:
    CZ 75 B Omega, FNS Longslide, GSG 1911-22 or Ruger Mark 4 Target.
    2. If it was your 75, and you've already adjusted it so "it shoots dead ring from a rest," I don't need to do anything to it: thanks for speaking up! :thumbsup:
    3. When I go back and look at some of the targets, the 75 Omega might be shooting a little low, but not much, and since you have sighted it in: it could all be me.

    The factory sights in my pistols lol, and the factory sighted in Your 75 :D. I've found on every factory pistol with non adjustable sights (meaning no screws to adjust windage and elevation) that the factory has gotten it right and my problems have been my technique. The problems I've had with non adjustable sights have either been material (glock plastic sight sliding out), or letting a counter jockey hammer in the new sights, rear was obviously off to one side. Adjusting a sight on a beavertail is rough without the right tooling, generally tapping the sight back and forth with a hammer and punch. If your shooting low, they have different sized front posts, but to really get to where you are dialing in that tight takes some skill and familiarity with the pistol. I'd want to see targets from a rest before venturing down that road, as I don't believe the front sight post is easy to change.
     

    doddg

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    The factory sights in my pistols lol, and the factory sighted in Your 75 :D. I've found on every factory pistol with non adjustable sights (meaning no screws to adjust windage and elevation) that the factory has gotten it right and my problems have been my technique. The problems I've had with non adjustable sights have either been material (glock plastic sight sliding out), or letting a counter jockey hammer in the new sights, rear was obviously off to one side. Adjusting a sight on a beavertail is rough without the right tooling, generally tapping the sight back and forth with a hammer and punch. If your shooting low, they have different sized front posts, but to really get to where you are dialing in that tight takes some skill and familiarity with the pistol. I'd want to see targets from a rest before venturing down that road, as I don't believe the front sight post is easy to change.

    1. I will take it slow, and get some kind of hand/gun rest to try to take me out of the formula.

    All I wanna know doddg is when you're going to get tired of that GSG 1911 22?

    2. Since it beat the "new" Mark 4 today, there's a better chance of the Mark 4 getting trimmed than the GSG 1911-22, especially, wait for it: since it has over $500 in UPGRADES! :rofl:
    3. There will be much testing before I trim a .22LR
    4. It was all I could do to trim the Walther P22QD, and I simply took it in on a trade, no emotional attachment, like in my Shield Compact.
     

    doddg

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    If you come shoot with me again I'll walk you through trigger feel. I think once you learn what your feeling and how to master your pull you will start seeing groups that touch.

    1. Did I miss this? I was looking over some threads and this is 3 wks ago and I don't see my response: bummer!
    2. Now I've run out of time with school starting up: no drives to Columbus in the pm.
     

    Ggreen

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    1. Did I miss this? I was looking over some threads and this is 3 wks ago and I don't see my response: bummer!
    2. Now I've run out of time with school starting up: no drives to Columbus in the pm.

    No problem. I'm sure if you ask someone you are shooting with to show you what the take up, the break and the reset is they will be able to show you. Take up is the pull up to the break (an SAO like a 1911 or a cz75sao) should have nearly no take up. The DA/SA will have a heavy double action take up, and a light sa. The striker pistols vary, but most have a moderate take up. The break is self explanatory, and generally where people flinch instinctively, this is where training with snap caps helps accuracy. Then there is the creep, which is the pull beyond the break and mostly a waste of energy, some triggers are tunable to reduce this. The last, and most important part is the reset. This is the point when your releasing the trigger (SLOWLY lol :D) and the trigger clicks and the hammer is ready to be dropped again. When training for rapid fire (not necessarily fast fire) you can time your breathing with the reset. You stop releasing the trigger once you feel it reset and if your breathing is timed right you can be at full exhale to let another round fly without having to pull back through that long single stage. I think of rapid fire as 1 shot in a breath or two, now shooting steel challenge I can get multiple shots out in one breath lol, my fastest stage so far was six shots, 15 yards, 12" or 10" plates, in 3.97 seconds. I'm not sure I breathed before or during... I think I just existed for a few seconds lol. Dryfiring can teach you all you want to know about your trigger.
     

    doddg

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    Very instructive Ggreen.
    I followed most of that, in fact, this evening when I was reading about the Rami, they were showing these steps you mentioned in the vid.
     

    doddg

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    Is there a RAMI in your future ?

    1. Good question. Unlike the other CZs I bought for the range, here is the Rami that fills a different niche: CC, and I read where it is accurate (like the Sig 365).
    2. I ask myself, should I pursue it? Money gives pause. They can be bought for $590 new, and used nearly the same. I have looked online (which I never do) since there isn't much available locally, especially in the "below or at $500."
    3. Since I've never had one in my hand I am at the mercy of reading, except for one person I know who stated they had one and, "hated it." I put that into memory, and he had and still has and loves: CZs. So, his opinion matters to me. Trust, even though it might "fit" me.

    4. Online it is a mixed bag with Glocks or Shield 9 or even the Sig 365 winning over the Rami, but those who love the Rami, really do love it.
    5. Just like I wouldn't buy a Glock nearly the whole 1st year b/c they cost $100 - $200 more than the S/Ws I had experience with, the Rami is unfamiliar to me, but is at the same price point as the Sig 365, so I either keep the Shield 9, or investigate others.

    6. After shooting a friend's 365 at the range last week: I'm sold on it: very very very accurate in my hand, where the Glock was not. So it is on "my list."

    7. I have been trusting my Glock 42 (.380) for carry and even picked up a $50 holster at training at Point Blank 2 days ago for only $12: I had to buy it to pass along to a future potential buyer (and yes, I'll ad that to my price!). I like the paddle holsters unless I can buy a good IWB holster.

    8. I have even wondered if a compact polymer CZ would be a carry option, but I don't think they come small enough for me: compacts generally not small enough to my needs for CC, which the Shield 9mm is about the biggest I can handle, but I don't mind having a CC a little bigger (therefore the Glock 26 in my possession, but not as only a CC, mostly a range gun, which its usefulness not needed now for the range b/c of the Shadow 2, but I'm not ready to give it up yet b/c I'm afraid of regret, and I've invested in a Safariland holster and an Advantage Arms .22LR kit for it, but all of that could be sold and get my money back.
     

    Areoflyer09

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    The smallest CZ polymer that I know of is the P-07, which is not a sub-compact option like the Glock 26 or CZ Rami.

    To give an idea, the P-07 is very similar to a Glock 19 in size. Where the Rami is close to the 26 in length and width, but it is taller than the 26. CZ lists the height for the Rami at 4.7”, they don’t say if that is measured using the flush or extended magazine.
     

    doddg

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    The smallest CZ polymer that I know of is the P-07, which is not a sub-compact option like the Glock 26 or CZ Rami.
    To give an idea, the P-07 is very similar to a Glock 19 in size. Where the Rami is close to the 26 in length and width, but it is taller than the 26. CZ lists the height for the Rami at 4.7”, they don’t say if that is measured using the flush or extended magazine.

    1. Very helpful insight, thanks!
    2. You can bet that the specs given are for the 10 round, not the 14 round (imo).
     
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