The Official 3d Printing thread

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  • RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    35   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
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    Here was my 'final' project. I decided to create two rings...
    The definition is quite clear in the model... granted, these are fairly small (ring sized)...

    rings_cad_zps2cy7516o.jpg


    Vs. the real counterparts. focus was hard to obtain, but enough detail is visible to show there was little difference between the two printed rings... also, to note the interior of the rings should have been 'smooth', but shows the roughness I spoke of earlier. It is after all, melted plastic

    rings_real_zpszvtqqm5d.jpg


    The one on the right had some holes visible through the wall of the ring. it would have been about .25 mm thick
     

    U.S. Patriot

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    Jan 30, 2009
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    I'm glad you brought that up.
    FWiW, the Brownsburg library printers will only run ABS. They claim the PLA causes issus with nozzle/head clogs and is more fickle than abs. I think it's possible, but in this type of setting with the general public coming in and using their printers, a one size fits all type solution is needed, and ABS fits that need.

    PLA is a plant base material, where as ABS is petroleum based. Also, PLA is brittle, and will melt if left in a hot vehicle for example. The one advantage of PLA is it's less likely to warp when doing a big print, where as, if there is not enough constant heat, ABS will.
     

    U.S. Patriot

    Grandmaster
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    7   1   0
    Jan 30, 2009
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    Here was my 'final' project. I decided to create two rings...
    The definition is quite clear in the model... granted, these are fairly small (ring sized)...

    rings_cad_zps2cy7516o.jpg


    Vs. the real counterparts. focus was hard to obtain, but enough detail is visible to show there was little difference between the two printed rings... also, to note the interior of the rings should have been 'smooth', but shows the roughness I spoke of earlier. It is after all, melted plastic

    rings_real_zpszvtqqm5d.jpg


    The one on the right had some holes visible through the wall of the ring. it would have been about .25 mm thick

    That can be expected with lower end printers. Layer thickness and vertical tolerance have a lot to do with it. The more expensive printers will have smaller layer thickness (microns). As well as tighter vertical resolution. I'll post some pics of the projects and tinkering I worked on.
     

    1911ly

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    I finally got one. It only took a year to figure out what I wanted :ugh: I did go with a Prusa i3v. And not a plastic ebay clone. Although hear some of them are great. This one has a extruded Aluminum frame, more metal parts, auto bed leveling etc. It kind of seems sort of like a Cadillac of printers. It my boys Christmas and birthday gift. I should have it in the next few days.


    Prusa 8" i3v Kit (V-Slot Extrusion) - 3D Printer Kits


    I ordered the aluminum heat bed mounts and the .40mm e3d-v6 Hot end for 1.75mm Filament. I really like kit building so I will enjoy putting it together. My brother has a similar printer if I have questions. And I will have questions!

    Does anyone have one of these? What do you think of it?
     

    Gabriel

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    Awesome. Let us know what you think. I've had a hard time not buying one. I can do most of my prototyping in the shop in less than an hour it without having to learn how to make a 3D model.

    Lately, however, that hasn't been the case and I've been using Shapeways to have prototypes of a new project made. It is pretty nice, but having the ability to print the parts, test them, change dimensions, reprint, retest, and so on at home would be great. Using Shapeways, I have to wait about a week before getting a test part before changing dimensions and trying again. If I end up needing to do this more often, I will buy a printer.
     

    1911ly

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    Awesome. Let us know what you think. I've had a hard time not buying one. I can do most of my prototyping in the shop in less than an hour it without having to learn how to make a 3D model.

    Lately, however, that hasn't been the case and I've been using Shapeways to have prototypes of a new project made. It is pretty nice, but having the ability to print the parts, test them, change dimensions, reprint, retest, and so on at home would be great. Using Shapeways, I have to wait about a week before getting a test part before changing dimensions and trying again. If I end up needing to do this more often, I will buy a printer.

    I will for sure. You can get the clone of one of these for about 200 bucks on Ebay. My brother has one he bought a few years ago used. Back then then I think he paid 250 for it. They have came down a lot. You can easily buy the upgrade parts fairly cheap. But I figured I would skip the middle step. He has used his a lot and like is and has only had a few minor issues. Mostly wear. I am looking forward to getting it.

    My boy is learning CAD from his aunt. She teaches it at one of the local colleges. So this is a really good thing for him. I really have a lot to learn. He has done some projects and printed them at the local library. This will be nice for him to be able to do it at home now. i will have fun with it too.
     

    RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    The company that donated printers to brownsburg library described the process. they get a kick back/grant for donating and training the public on their old filament printers...
    but yeah, she described the carbon process they use with lasers, and brought in some cross section parts they manufacture. Pretty slick stuff. They make nose cones for missiles and the honeycomb interior is impossible to mold without 3d printing. Extremely lightweight and very strong.
    They don't sell printers... but donate their old ones. maybe in 10-15 years they'll start donating some metal printers! :D
     

    7.62

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    Jul 9, 2011
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    The Prusa is a good printer. You will have a great time with it. I use my 3d printer almost everyday. Its fun stuff. What slicing software do you plan on using?
     

    1911ly

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    The Prusa is a good printer. You will have a great time with it. I use my 3d printer almost everyday. Its fun stuff. What slicing software do you plan on using?

    Still learning all this. My brother mentioned what he was using and at the moment I can't remember what he recommended. What are you using?
     

    7.62

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    Well if you are wanting free software. I would suggest downloading https://www.repetier.com

    Its a good slicer for free. You can also use Cura, very popular free software. That being said its mostly popular because its so easy to use. But its very limited once you get past the novice level. Repetier is much better IMO.

    If you want the creme of the crop its will cost you $150. Its called simplify3d. Its hands down the best software available, but price is hard to swallow.

    Im currently using Repetier. Solid stuff.
     

    7.62

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    If your kit didnt come with a peice of borosilicate glass for your heat bed I would suggest buying one. You will need a surface that the filament will constantly ahere to. This will greatly affect your prints.
     

    7.62

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    Awesome. Let us know what you think. I've had a hard time not buying one. I can do most of my prototyping in the shop in less than an hour it without having to learn how to make a 3D model.

    Lately, however, that hasn't been the case and I've been using Shapeways to have prototypes of a new project made. It is pretty nice, but having the ability to print the parts, test them, change dimensions, reprint, retest, and so on at home would be great. Using Shapeways, I have to wait about a week before getting a test part before changing dimensions and trying again. If I end up needing to do this more often, I will buy a printer.

    Not sure what size and material prototypes you are needing to print but if they are within my printer capabilities I would be happy to do it for you for a fraction of the cost of shapeways. Also long as you had a 3d model ready to send me. Let me know if I can ever help you.
     

    1911ly

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    Well if you are wanting free software. I would suggest downloading https://www.repetier.com

    Its a good slicer for free. You can also use Cura, very popular free software. That being said its mostly popular because its so easy to use. But its very limited once you get past the novice level. Repetier is much better IMO.

    If you want the creme of the crop its will cost you $150. Its called simplify3d. Its hands down the best software available, but price is hard to swallow.

    Im currently using Repetier. Solid stuff.

    I will check that software out. Thanks for the tip. My brother just told be that he is using Cura. I will check out the one you are using. And thanks for the tip on the kind of glass. They say that I will need a sheet of glass. i had not heard of that kind of glass. I just looked it up and it does look like it is a much better choice for glass. I found a dealer on Ebay that sells it for $25 for 2 sheets. Is that a deal??
     

    4651feeder

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    3   0   0
    Oct 21, 2016
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    You might also check McMaster-Carr's price on page 3682 of their online catalog for the glass if you really think you need it. I've been printing PLA for two years on heated and ambient beds and have not felt a need for anything more than 3M Blue Painters tape cleaned with rubbing alcohol when it comes to PLA if your print head height tolerances are set right. Don't care for ABS fumes in the house, so I don't use it. The Midwest RepRap Festival will again be March 25-26, 2017 at Elkhart Co Fairgrounds, always a lot of info to be found there. Check out H and H 3D Filaments, made right here in Indiana and reasonably priced.
     

    1911ly

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    You might also check McMaster-Carr's price on page 3682 of their online catalog for the glass if you really think you need it. I've been printing PLA for two years on heated and ambient beds and have not felt a need for anything more than 3M Blue Painters tape cleaned with rubbing alcohol when it comes to PLA if your print head height tolerances are set right. Don't care for ABS fumes in the house, so I don't use it. The Midwest RepRap Festival will again be March 25-26, 2017 at Elkhart Co Fairgrounds, always a lot of info to be found there. Check out H and H 3D Filaments, made right here in Indiana and reasonably priced.

    I'll check the page out, thanks!

    My brother says he has been using a certain hair spray on a unheated bed for awhile using PLA with good luck. ABS was giving him fits until he figured out the right bed temp. And the hair spray worked well with both.
     

    1911ly

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    You might also check McMaster-Carr's price on page 3682 of their online catalog for the glass if you really think you need it. I've been printing PLA for two years on heated and ambient beds and have not felt a need for anything more than 3M Blue Painters tape cleaned with rubbing alcohol when it comes to PLA if your print head height tolerances are set right. Don't care for ABS fumes in the house, so I don't use it. The Midwest RepRap Festival will again be March 25-26, 2017 at Elkhart Co Fairgrounds, always a lot of info to be found there. Check out H and H 3D Filaments, made right here in Indiana and reasonably priced.

    I just checked out H and H. great lead! thanks!
     

    4651feeder

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    Oct 21, 2016
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    7.62 is right, Repetier-Host is a great program for controlling printers and for me it gives better overall prints due to the slicing offered; however the Intel Atom in my favorite netbook struggles with it, so most often I use a throwback version of CURA 14.12.1. Maybe someday I'll explore CURA 2.3. The important thing to remember is whether it be Glass Bed, Blue Tape, Hairspray, Glue Stick, or whatever, choose what works best for you; cause most of us still using the Fused Deposition Method are doing it for our own pleasure and what's the sense of it, if you're not having fun.
     
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